3D Printing an Overdrive Knob

[Eagle43]

Last week when it was really cold, my garage heater had trouble keeping up so I looked for something I could do for my Ford F1 pickup restoration project that I could do inside the house. I needed an "Overdrive" knob for the dash so I thought I would design and 3D print one. I used Autodesk Fusion 360 for the CAD drawing and printed out several different versions on my homemade Prusa clone printer.

I am finding that a 3D printer is a useful tool to make parts or tools. I am enjoying learning to use Fusion 360, a professional CAD/CAM program that is free for hobbyists. The knob I designed and printed is one example of how you can acquire an expensive or hard to find part economically. This knob costs me $0.16 to print. LMC wants $29.99 USD plus shipping, tax and duties for a stainless steel one that doesn't really match the other knobs on the dash.

I've attached some pictures. I'd be interested in hearing from others who have tried printing parts.

 

[J Franklin]

Do you have any links to 3 d printing instruction?

 

[petehoovie]

Last week when it was really cold, my garage heater had trouble keeping up so I looked for something I could do for my Ford F1 pickup restoration project that I could do inside the house. I needed an "Overdrive" knob for the dash so I thought I would design and 3D print one. I used Autodesk Fusion 360 for the CAD drawing and printed out several different versions on my homemade Prusa clone printer.

I am finding that a 3D printer is a useful tool to make parts or tools. I am enjoying learning to use Fusion 360, a professional CAD/CAM program that is free for hobbyists. The knob I designed and printed is one example of how you can acquire an expensive or hard to find part economically. This knob costs me $0.16 to print. LMC wants $29.99 USD plus shipping, tax and duties for a stainless steel one that doesn't really match the other knobs on the dash. I've attached some pictures. I'd be interested in hearing from others who have tried printing parts.

 

[19Fordy]

Wow! 16 cents. What's the cost of the 3D printer?

 

[Eagle43]

There are lots of YouTube videos on 3D printing and there is a learning curve. First you need an "stl" file, You can either model it yourself or get it from someone who has done the modeling. I can send you the file and you're welcome to use it. Next you need to "slice" the file. There is free software that will do that. This gives you a g-code file which is a set of instructions for the printer. Last you need a printer - find a friend who has one or check with your local public library.

 

[Eagle43]

Wow! 16 cents. What's the cost of the 3D printer?

Obviously you wouldn't buy a printer to make just one part. It would have to be something thing that really interests you but I think most public libraries probably have ones you can use. I built my printer from assorted parts bought off of Ebay and Aliexpress because I thought that would be a challenging and fun project, the same reasons I restore vehicles. It only cost me a couple of hundred bucks and many hours of time.

 

[19Fordy]

Thanks for the feedback. Jim

 

[TerryOH]

If you have a college near, often they will let you use their 3-D printer as well as assistance with the software.

 

[Lawson Cox]

How expensive is it to have a small part duplicated on a 3D printer?? Inquiring minds are curious.

 

[Eagle43]

How expensive is it to have a small part duplicated on a 3D printer?? Inquiring minds are curious.

I think it depends where you go and whether you have the STL file for the part. A friend with a 3D printer will probably do it as a favor. A public library will probably charge you a little bit for the filament and supplies used. A commercial business will probably charge you quite a bit more since they're doing it to make a profit. I'm sure there are businesses close to where you live. Call one and get a quote.

If you don't have the STL file you either have to model the part yourself, get one from a friend or find one on the Internet - there are tons of free ones. Just google "free STL files".

If you are interested in learning to use Fusion 360, I would recommend checking out Coursera (https://www.coursera.org/). They offer free online courses on almost any subject from universities all over the world. You can audit the courses for free but they charge a modest fee and you have to pass an exam if you want credits. Right now I'm working my way through "Introduction to Mechanical Engineering Design and Manufacturing with Fusion 360". I'm about half way through the four week course which I'm doing in a few days. Learning CAD/CAM gets you into working with CNC milling/router as well.

It's probably a longer answer than what you were expecting but you did say something about an inquiring mind.

 

[tubman]

I'll simplify it : $.16 if you have printer; over $1000 if you don't.

 

[TerryOH]

There use to be limited colors and finishes, is that still true? I note the overdrive knob is gloss black.

 

[sugarmaker]

Eagle43,
Thanks for the information on 3D printing. It has come a long way from when I first saw it 40 years ago! The part you made looks very good. Is the strength adequate? Most of the parts made back in early days were for show and tell. This looks functional.
You have great skills.
Good luck in your classes!
Regards,
Chris

 

[kirkf]

I expect in the future, 3D printing of classic auto parts will be the only option left to us.
The market for these vehicles is shrinking all the time, and it looks like we are basically running on previously manufactured stock on a lot of items.
I suspect as the parts made in the decades previous dry up, there will be no replacement. Its just not economical to manufacture a part for such a small community.

I recently went looking for parts for a 40 pickup. The Bob Drake catalog from 2015 was full of parts. Today almost none of those parts are available. We've all seen countless threads on here of parts that were commonly available in the past becoming un-obtainium. (The 40 ford pickup hood handle is an example)

Kirk

 

[Karl Wescott]

Nice job on the handle.

I have been using 3D modeling, and fusion 3D printers for a couple of years now.
First opinion, 3D modeling and 3D printing will be just another tool, maybe as versatile as a crescent wrench with a vise grip welded to the handle but right now just as cluncky.
Photos attached of a wax pattern for investment casting of the center dowel socket for 1937-39 convertibles, the 3D printed die to make it, and a 3D image of the BB-13471 panel truck taillight spacer (that might be actually used, rather than having them cast)
There are right now some serious limitations for hobbyist level printers as to size and material selection. Not to mention speed, as in slow, or VERY SLOW. An overdrive handle looks perfect and will not hurt anyone if it breaks in use. Metals with any structural value simply are not happening, except for some aluminum requiring a 10+K printer.
For anyone wanting to do this there is a SERIOUS learning curve for making the 3D model (computer) and another SERIOUS learning curve for tuning and operating your printer.
Fusion360 is fine, however it is licensed only for non-commercial use so you need to be careful. An alternitive, and the one I use is Freecad www.freecadweb.org, an open source, no charge, unlimited use, very powerful (with poor documentation and steep learning curve) option.
A couple of new items are in the works, investment cast using 3D printed dies, expect to see them in the "new products" thread in about 3 months when they get back from the foundry.
Karl Wescott

 

[Eagle43]

There use to be limited colors and finishes, is that still true? I note the overdrive knob is gloss black.

I sanded and painted it. I could have got it smoother if I had covered it with a thin layer of Bondo first. There are a wide variety of filaments available - different colors and materials, even metal. I just used generic black PLA which I bought locally for $25 for a 1 Kg roll.

I first learned about 3D printing from this ten-year-old Jay Leno video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ZrJsrTT4EA

 

[Eagle43]

Eagle43,
Is the strength adequate? Most of the parts made back in early days were for show and tell.

PLA is pretty strong and hard but doesn't stand up to heat very well. Since it's built up by very thin layers of plastic, it's a lot like wood - it's very strong along the grain but weaker across the grain. You can also sand, glue (super glue or epoxy), fill and paint it like wood. Some people (YouTube) have even made dies for a bead roller with it and they evidently last for a small job. I might try that some time.

The knob should be strong enough. It doesn't require a lot of force to move the overdrive lever. I glued in a 8-32 aluminum rivnut to screw it onto the cable. The printer will make threaded holes but I hope this is stronger.

 

[Tinker]

Something to consider and usually not talked much about with 3D printers is the fact they build on layers. The more expensive machines do thinner passes and leave less artifacts to deal with. Less sanding.

Your OD handles look very nice! Great Job!


.

 

[Eagle43]

Photos attached of a wax pattern for investment casting of the center dowel socket for 1937-39 convertibles, the 3D printed die to make it, and a 3D image of the BB-13471 panel truck taillight spacer (that might be actually used, rather than having them cast)
There are right now some serious limitations for hobbyist level printers as to size and material selection. Not to mention speed, as in slow, or VERY SLOW.
Karl Wescott

I pretty much agree. 3D printing is just another tool in the tool box. I would basically use it to duplicate parts that are already plastic of some sort like bakelite. As to it being slow - that is true but not a big problem. The knob takes about an hour to print but I just get it started and leave it and do something else. Earlier last summer I made my second version of a CNC Router/Laser with mostly printed parts. Some of the pieces took up to 17 hours to print so I just ran the machine basically 24/7 and used up almost 3 Kg of filament until it was done.

Regarding your pictures, I'm wondering if these are printed items. I have done some investment casting in aluminum but have not tried the "Lost PLA" investment casting which allows you to print a part in PLA and cast it in metal.

 

[Eagle43]

Something to consider and usually not talked much about with 3D printers is the fact they build on layers. The more expensive machines do thinner passes and leave less artifacts to deal with. Less sanding.

Your OD handles look very nice! Great Job!


.

Thanks. You can set your layer height in your Slicer software. I usually go with .2 mm.