'39 Windscreen

Steve_S

Steve_S

Member
Can anyone explain, or better yet post photos, of how the windscreen frame on my '39 pickup comes apart? I've drilled out any screws that would not come out on their own but the frame is stuck together tightly. I don't know if it pulls apart, slides apart, etc so I'm afraid to force anything. Thanks!
 
I just pulled my 39 PU frame apart about 2 months ago. First remove the frame from the cab. It is VERY tight as the square plug is rusty and the 10-32 machine screws are rusted into the square plugs. I used a 50 - 50 mixture of ATF and acetone and soaked the joint and screws liberally for about a week before I saw any movement. First get the screws out in one piece if possible to avoid more work down the road. Since one of my glasses was broken, I was not afraid to put some heat on the frame. I used a block of wood and a hammer to persuade the upper and lower sectons to part. I ended up breaking the good glass by applying heat to that side. I also quenched the frame after the heat to break the rust bond. It took several days of heat, quench and soak to get the upper and lower frames to part, but they will part. As an aside, the plugs are 5/16 square and I had to have a 3/8 bar milled down to 5/16 and drilled and tapped to 10/32. There is a slight bend in the middle of the square plug, put the bend in before you drill and tap the threads. Nobody ever said that working on these old cars was going to be a piece of cake.
 
I just did this job about 2 months ago. First remove the frame from the cab so you can lay it flat on the floor. I soaked the joint and 10-32 screws for several days before they would move. Try to get the screws out in one piece to avoid extra work down the road. Since one of the glass screens was broken , I was not afraid to apply heat. Heat and quench with water to break the rust bond. I used a block of wood and a hammer to apply preasure as well as a bumper jack with wood pads against the frame. There are 5/16 square plugs that hold the uppr and lower frames together. I had to mill a 3/8 bar down to 5/16 to replace the plugs that had been damaged by someone before me who tryed to drill out the 10/32 screws. There is a slight bend in the plug and that should be put in before you drill and tap for the 10- 32 threads. It took me sevral days of heat, quench and preasure before it came apart. No one ever said that it was going to be easy.
 
I just did this job about 2 months ago. I had to heat, quench and apply preasure to get the upper and lower frames to part. Soak the screws and join liberally with a 50 50 mixture of ATF and acetone for several days. It took me about a week to get the job down.
 
Thanks, that helps greatly. So do I understand correctly that the two halves of the frame pull apart front to rear? In other words, if you were looking through the windshield from inside the car, one half comes straight at you and the other straight forward?

Too late for the screws, only two came out in one piece and the rest I had to drill the heads off of. Good to know there's a replaceable plug inside though, so now I'm not so afraid of drilling off center.
 
One half goes straight up and the other half goes straight down looking through the windshield. The center bar is part of the lower half and unscrews from the top at the top. Excuse the multi answers previous. I had a senior moment and needed to rent an 8 year old to get me straight.
 
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