I just finished the windshield on my 39 PU a few weeks ago. I referred to a Chris Blattie thread on the HAMB. My glass went in with a light to medium hand pressure and a little windex for lube. I dry fit the glass with no tape a few times to make sure my frame was straight and twisted the frame slightly until the pieces would slide together easily and the gap was even. Pay attention to how the top and bottom align at front and side of the square peg, mine had a decided angle at the front that was made obvious when the flat glass was loosely installed, tweaking required. I used two layers of tape at the center post because the channel there was wider. One mistake I made was not observing/ removing a small burr on the edge of the frame at the parting line, that cost me a new piece of glass. With new glass in hand I then made sure everything was smooth, no burrs or bumps. Make sure the frame screws you use are too short to go through the frame channel and peg and contact the glass when torqued or the glass will break. I bought stainless, slotted, rounded CS screws from boltdepot.com, I think, when I was buying hardware to build a deck. Roy Nacewicz probably has the rounded head CS screws as well if you want more authenticity. I used a little anti-seize on them and a dab of lubriplate on the square pegs during assembly. I worked on a padded table per C. Blatties advice. When you trim off the excess tape use care at the corners with the knife blade angle or you may knick the paint like I did.