39 pedals in a 36 frame

36coupe said:
DD sent me the template. I think I will go to town to buy some ink for the printer. The rearward hole that orientates the location of the brake pedals must be the same on all 35-40 frames.

I do not have a 39 clutch arm, so will have to try find one. (I’ll buy one if anybody has an extra one laying around)

Bob Drake no longer lists the brake pedals or 39 clutch arm. Seems like they are fazing things out.
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Lindsay .....I was just snooping-around in some notes that I had written to myself some years back noting to myself that you MIGHT do better by using the TOP, REAR hole as the one to index off of.

I FINALLY found this image that shows why the '39 clutch arm is angled off to the left. This is a '39 pedal set in the picture BELOW.


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Below is a comparison of all the different clutch arms. You can see why the height & angles can make a difference. DD


411985
 
36coupe said:
DD sent me the template. The rearward hole that orientates the location of the brake pedals must be the same on all 35-40 frames.
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As far as exact placement goes, I've noticed in a couple of pictures that I have that the UPPER, REAR bolt seems to be directly below the recess, or indent on top of the frame rail for the counter-sunk bolt that retains the stay rod which prevents the engine's fore & aft movement. You have to look closely in this first picture. That UPPER, REAR bolt can be seen just above the right end of the big spring.


322056



This second picture BELOW also shows the UPPER, REAR bolt in bracket to be just below the same, beveled recess for the counter-sunk stay rod bolt on TOP of this chassis rail. DD


393850
 
The bottom photo is my '38 1/2T pickup. I used the Bob Drake template for the location of the '39 pedals. Everything lined up perfectly except the clutch shaft arm. I ended up just making a longer clutch shaft that located the stock clutch arm inline with the clevis on the clutch pedal.
 
Late to the party here, but wanted to thank everyone for the
additional info. ("Fine print"), and great D/D/'s closeups of Peter's
beautiful '35 chassis, (LOVE that car!).
When I started to mock up this same combo. in my '36 a few years
back, I could see it was not going to be the "bolt-in" swap some
had mentioned. Now I can see the pedal holes in the Carpenter
toe boards are probably not going to align either. Just another
little glitch in getting the puzzle pieces to all fit together!
 
I don't see Richard Lacy mentioned any where on this post.
He has a business and makes kits for changing over to hydraulic brakes.
A friend installed one on a 1935 Ford, quite nice- and no mods to the car at all.
The business name may be The V8 Garage (corrections most welcome).

Karl
 
Karl Wolf said:
I don't see Richard Lacy mentioned any where on this post.
He has a business and makes kits for changing over to hydraulic brakes.
A friend installed one on a 1935 Ford, quite nice- and no mods to the car at all.
The business name may be The V8 Garage (corrections most welcome).

Karl
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Yeah... When I read all the stuff these guys are discussing, seems to me I'd consider taking the easy way out... keep stock pedals, and look carefully at the way Richard does it. 'Course, I'm somewhat of a 'fan' of the way Richard does it. Sure, costs a little, but to me, worth it.
 
I still have lots to do but it is now a roller. Next thing I will do is install the Vern Tardel rear drum retainers and run my brake lines.
After that I will get the body on the rotisserie and clean the underneath and ready the underside for paint.
 

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Drum retainers and gravel guard
 

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I made a bit more headway running the brake lines. I had to order some fittings from third GEN. I fabricated two brackets to hold the hose ends to the frame and was able to drill a hole through the inner fenders. I had lots of gravel guard left over so I use some on the brake lines next to the master cylinder.
 

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Tinker said:
Grade 8 bolts are really designed for forces that apply vertical force. Pull. Not great for shear. That said they are fine for what you are doing.



I wouldn't worry about torch bending the pedal. Just my opinion. They are forged not cast.
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...
 
36coupe said:
I made a bit more headway running the brake lines. I had to order some fittings from third GEN. I fabricated two brackets to hold the hose ends to the frame and was able to drill a hole through the inner fenders. I had lots of gravel guard left over so I use some on the brake lines next to the master cylinder.
Click to expand...


Looks great! Nice work
 
Lindsay, is that the stoplight pressure switch in the front brake circuit? If you lose pressure to the front brakes, you will also lose the signal for your brake lights. You might consider a mechanical brake light switch rather than a pressure switch.
 
Tinker said:
Yep... as I originally said heat them and bent them... or just use every moment you have to run me down. :rolleyes::D
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TINKER ....As I originally said, the Ford pedals with an I-beam cross section are "CAST"-iron. As far as "running you down"....I COULD say that you make it easy to do when you continually get your information from WHO KNOWS WHERE, but I am here with hopes of sharing REAL information with those interested in hearing such. Check this little quote from "DavidG" just 15 months ago about "cast-iron" Ford pedals. PLEASE click the link BELOW. DD

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1947811&postcount=18

.
 
Zeke3 said:
Lindsay, is that the stoplight pressure switch in the front brake circuit? If you lose pressure to the front brakes, you will also lose the signal for your brake lights. You might consider a mechanical brake light switch rather than a pressure switch.
Click to expand...

Yes, I’ll probably leave it in the plumbing. I can’t hook,up a mechanical one until the body is back on.
 
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