39 pedals in a 36 frame

[36coupe]

I am trying to figure out how to modify my 1936 frame for 1939 pedals.
I made a template from the 39 frame and I’m not exactly sure where it should line up on the 36 frame since the bolt holes do not line up perfectly with the 39 pedals.
Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Newc]

I believe the '39 mounts to the outside of the frame member. Drake pedals come with a template. More posts expected here. Newc

 

[V8COOPMAN]

I am trying to figure out how to modify my 1936 frame for 1939 pedals.
I made a template from the 39 frame and I’m not exactly sure where it should line up on the 36 frame since the bolt holes do not line up perfectly with the 39 pedals.
Any help is greatly appreciated.

Hey Lindsay .....Here is the PDF for the template that Bob Drake provides. Not sure about a '36, but it has been said that the BOTTOM, REAR hole in bracket is a match for a 1940 frame bracket, for what that's worth. Not sure if that will help you or not. DD

https://www.fordbarn.com/attachments/401649/

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[36coupe]

Hey Lindsay .....Here is the PDF for the template that Bob Drake provides. Not sure about a '36, but it has been said that the BOTTOM, REAR hole in bracket is a match for a 1940 frame bracket, for what that's worth. Not sure if that will help you or not. DD

https://www.fordbarn.com/attachments/401649/

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Perfect that should work, thanks. I had printed off a Bob Drake template years ago but misplaced it. I will try lining up the bottom rear hole as well.
Thanks

 

[bbrocksr]

One hole lines up and you have to drill the other three holes. I clamped the pedal assembly in place and installed the toe plate/floorboard to check the position of the pedal to the slots in the toe plate. That tells you if the pedals are in the correct location. Then drill the holes. The clutch pushrod can be offset or change the lever on the throw out shaft to correct alignment. I just converted my 36 pickup about a year ago, works great.
Bill

 

[36coupe]

One hole lines up and you have to drill the other three holes. I clamped the pedal assembly in place and installed the toe plate/floorboard to check the position of the pedal to the slots in the toe plate. That tells you if the pedals are in the correct location. Then drill the holes. The clutch pushrod can be offset or change the lever on the throw out shaft to correct alignment. I just converted my 36 pickup about a year ago, works great.
Bill

I can’t use the toe board as the body is not on the frame.
A PDF of the dimensions of the toe board would be nice if anyone has one.
Thanks

 

[Krylon32]

I've done this conversion a few times in the past using the Drake template. It takes a little work with a small grinder and die grinder but it will fit. One thing you'll need is the 39 clutch arm so the linkage will line up.

 

[36coupe]

I've done this conversion a few times in the past using the Drake template. It takes a little work with a small grinder and die grinder but it will fit. One thing you'll need is the 39 clutch arm so the linkage will line up.

DD sent me the template. I think I will go to town to buy some ink for the printer. The rearward hole that orientates the location of the brake pedals must be the same on all 35-40 frames.

I do not have a 39 clutch arm, so will have to try find one. (I’ll buy one if anybody has an extra one laying around)

Bob Drake no longer lists the brake pedals or 39 clutch arm. Seems like they are fazing things out.

 

[Krylon32]

I am in the process of making fabricated 39 clutch arms but because of chassis work in my shop I am several months out. I have made fabricated 35/36 arms for many years.

 

[V8COOPMAN]

DD sent me the template. The rearward hole that orientates the location of the brake pedals must be the same on all 35-40 frames.

I do not have a 39 clutch arm, so will have to try find one. (I’ll buy one if anybody has an extra one laying around)

The 1st picture BELOW shows a '35 chassis which has had a set of '39 pedals adapted to it. This image shows the 1939 clutch arm and how it leans toward the LEFT side of the car to line-up with the '39 pedal.

DO NOT think that you can just heat and bend an arm from another year, because the '39 arm is of a specific length (hole to hole center lines), and if not the proper length, will screw-up the ratio of the whole pedal/arm set-up as far as feel and proper clutch disengagement.

This 2nd picture BELOW shows the same '35 chassis and the relative position of the '39 pedals, as well as the linkage between pedal and clutch-release arm. Pay no attention to the custom extension for the master cylinder mount.

Your replacement transmission mount appears to be the correct '37 thru '40 mount. I would feel comfortable using 5/16" bolts with this mount.

BELOW is a '37 thru '40 steering box mount. Those holes APPEAR to be more like 3/8" holes. If so, I would use 3/8" bolts. If the original rivet holes in the chassis are only 5/16", then so be it. DD

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[38bill]

Also note in the photos above that there is a notch in the frame were the clutch pedal arm hits the frame. If your frame doesn't have the notch the clutch pedal will bottom out on the frame and you will not get full travel.

 

[36coupe]

Your replacement transmission mount appears to be the correct '37 thru '40 mount. I would feel comfortable using 5/16" bolts with this mount.

BELOW is a '37 thru '40 steering box mount. Those holes APPEAR to be more like 3/8" holes. If so, I would use 3/8" bolts. If the original rivet holes in the chassis are only 5/16", then so be it. DD

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DD
Thanks for the reference pictures.

The template I made from 39 frame matched the Drake template. When you suggested using the rear bottom hole, it is very close. It would move the pedals forward 1/2-3/4”. Probably would work fine.

I didn’t take the steering box bracket out. The top holes are a bit oval but the bottom are 5/16. I will make the top ones 3/8 and leave the bottom 5/16.

I will have to drill new holes for the transmission mount as the spacing is different between the two brackets. It shouldn’t be hard as I will mark a centreline across the frame and install the new one in the same centre line.

With the picture showing the turtle, is it installed upside down?
Thanks for all the help

 

[36coupe]

Also note in the photos above that there is a notch in the frame were the clutch pedal arm hits the frame. If your frame doesn't have the notch the clutch pedal will bottom out on the frame and you will not get full travel.

I had to go out in the shop and look.
You can see the notch in post #6 under the cardboard template.

 

[Zeke3]

A PDF of the dimensions of the toe board would be nice if anyone has one.

I bought a copy of the Ford drawings for the toe boards for my 1937 from the Benson Ford Research Center and made my own boards. The drawings were about as expensive as a set of boards from Dennis Carpenter. So, in my opinion, it is cheaper in the long run just to buy a set of boards. I am not sure if the same would apply in Canada.

PS: it was fun making the boards, I used 3/4" exterior grade plywood planed down to 5/8" thickness.

 

[V8COOPMAN]

With the picture showing the turtle, is it installed upside down?
Thanks for all the help

Good catch! That was PeterC's black '35 3-window coupe. His car has a Columbia rear end, and as such, the speedo cable runs toward the right side of the car for the controls hook-up. DD
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[Steve in Denver]

I just drilled the steering box plate out of my '36 and bolted the '37 in. Lots of drilling, started with a small bit and worked my way up. I did not have to get under the car. I was able to drill everything from the top. I used 3/8 grade 8 bolts and steel lock nuts. Not sure if I had to, but it makes me feel better.

Back to the pedals, after I installed the '39 pedal assy, and put the interior back together, the gas pedal is right next to the brake pedal. When I put my foot on the brake, I usually hit the gas pedal too. And yes, I do have the gas pedal with the off-set hole and it is still under the brake pedal. I am thinking of a torch and just bending it a bit. Anyone got a better idea?

 

[Tinker]

Grade 8 bolts are really designed for forces that apply vertical force. Pull. Not great for shear. That said they are fine for what you are doing.



I wouldn't worry about torch bending the pedal. Just my opinion. They are forged not cast.

 

[V8COOPMAN]

Back to the pedals, after I installed the '39 pedal assy, and put the interior back together, the gas pedal is right next to the brake pedal. When I put my foot on the brake, I usually hit the gas pedal too. And yes, I do have the gas pedal with the off-set hole and it is still under the brake pedal. I am thinking of a torch and just bending it a bit. Anyone got a better idea?

Lindsay noted in post #12 possibly moving the pedal set forward 1/2" to 3/4" or so. With the pedals mounted on that inboard rail, any movement toward the front will also move the pedals to the left, which would likely help your interference situation with the gas pedal to some degree. Although utilizing '39 pedals in a '35-'36 is a very popular swap, I've never heard of anyone declaring it as a "PERFECT" bolt-in swap. This swap rates as a great starting point, with some 'tweaking' necessary to fine-tune the swap for a comfortable result. It is certainly OK to bend the pedals for a custom fit. Be careful though, as many of the '39 CLUTCH pedals are cast iron, which cannot be heated and bent. If the pedal arm is straight and appears in the form of an "I"-beam, it is a cast piece. You should NOT try to heat and bend a cast piece. The picture BELOW shows a '39 pedal set. The clutch pedal is the "I" Beam-looking pedal on the bottom. No heat and bend! DD

 

[V8COOPMAN]

I wouldn't worry about torch bending the pedal. Just my opinion. They are forged not cast.

Well....NOT necessarily so, Tink! See my post ABOVE about CAST, I-beam type pedals! DD

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[Tinker]

I have 39 pedals in my 36. No issues. Respect your opinion.


Moving them forward would change the angle quite a bit over the length of the arm. But a shim might do the same thing. Not that I would on a major component or keep hollowing out a frame.


See what pedals you have and assess.