39 clutch pedal lock pin

I used a grade 8 bolt, long and cut to fit with smooth shoulder in arm and shaft. Zeke
 

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There is nothing hard about the original equipment pin, either on the throwout fork or the clutch arm.
That is how we are able to drill them when removing.
All aftermarket pins are mild steel.
 
Those pins were extremely tight-fitting when originally installed. I've never removed one that was about to fall out, nor that had worn itself to a loose state. The whole idea is that when these types of parts are configured tightly to begin with, they can never begin to move independently of the parts they're holding together.....hence, cannot wear back and forth against another part to wear anything out. DD
 
Thanks!
It look like it needs to be installed like a rivet, as it is peened over hot, the pin expands in the hole and locks pedal and shaft together. IMHO.
 
Actually, most guys use a QUALITY bolt that fits snugly. You probably won't put enough miles on it to wear it out. DD
 
I just bought a allen 5/16 head shoulder bolt. It has a long shank for strength and a tight fit. Ream the hole to dia so it doesn't fret in the hole and wear the pedal or shaft assembly.
Roll pins are both thin and hollow and are not meant to carry a shear load.
 
The OP is asking about the pin that holds the pedal arm to the cross shaft, not the clevis and pin in the linkage.

Hard to get a bolt to fit tight enough, easier to heat and upset the ends like a rivet, seems to expand and fit the hole good and tight.

Don't think a roll pin would have a long life in this application, bet it would get loose pretty quick.
 
I would not ream the hole as is suggested, too much material is removed and a new pin will not peen in tight enough to take up the clearance. I use the new supplied pins from Job Lot or others and peen cold when installing the clutch throw out arm on the transmission throw out fork shaft (same type of installation as pedal shaft).
Thanks Paul J.
 
Please take a look, the shoulder extends thru the pedal arm. Hole is.309 and pin is .308 dia. The standard grade 5 bolt threads are too long (my taste) for the shoulder length. A shorter bolt has insufficient shoulder. A solid pin is great but I want to be able to disassemble. In any case this is not about convincing you what to do as providing options.
 

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'42merc" and "V8coopman" have offered some very good advice. The pin was originally mild steel and swedged in place.
If you want to maintain the authentic appearance, simply install a piece of cold rolled steel and peen over each end. You'll never sheer this pin...
 
If you decide to use a bolt, use one with the desired length of plain shaft and then saw the threaded part down to length. How hard can it be? The 39 pedals in my 33 already had a bolt in place so i just reworked the job with a new bolt modified as above.

Mart.
 
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