39 Brake & clutch pedals

Zeke...PA

Well-known member
I have installed the 39 brake and clutch pedal assm. in my 37 with hydraulic brakes, went OK increased the hole and redrilled the frame. Have now installed the 8BA engine with the 37 transmission, I now find the clutch linkage arm and release arm are off by about an inch and a half, do not remember any information pertaining to that problem. Picture looking down I reversed the linkage and put bolts in to check operation of clutch, OK Has anyone had this problem and how did you correct. Thanks Zeke
 

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hopefully Richard(EV8G) will see this post and give you some advice....he does these brake set ups and can help you with specifics....i hope...if he doesn't answer, look him up in the "community" list and email....good luck.....Mike
 
I had the same issue with my 36 ford and solved it by welding another piece on the end of the clutch shaft to get the alignment needed. I found out later that the clutch rod for the 39 Ford is an "S" shape to account for the difference in alignment.

You solution looks okay but may bind in the future if the pin wears in the attachment at the clutch shaft.
 
I used a 39 arm and had to bend it out a bit more to align it.You can't flip your arm around as it won't be clocked right.Easier to change arm with trans out.Baxter Ford in Lawrence ,KS or Early Ford Store in San Dimas,CA might have a 39 arm in stock.
 
The 32 has a bend in the release arm on the shaft in the trans that goes to the throw out bearing... The length of the arm needs to be relative to the amount of throw at the pedal end, which is a lot shorter for the 39 pedals, so you can't use a 32 arm on the trans end-it would be too long... I have for myself welded up such a rig using pieces from two arms, put in the off set, grind it til it looks good...

I can give you the arm length, if you want, contact me... Karl
 
The 32 in my avatar had a similar situation - with the help of jacksanddeuces we added a piece to the end of the clutch pedal rod and I'm using grade 8 bolts on either end.

If you have enough travel you can also move the 39 clutch fork rod/shaft in the ****** out by redrilling the hole for the clutch fork. I could not do that because, like an idiot, I cut that rod before having everything together thinking I had it right. That does put some extra strain on that shaft and the bushings might wear out a bit quicker that way.
 

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I'm looking at the same issue now for my '36. I thought I would rectify it by making a new arm to go on the throw out bearing cross shaft. So, I am looking for some heavy walled pipe material that has a .875" i.d. To that I will weld an arm the same length as a stock piece. Problem now seems to be finding some heavy walled pipe that is close to the 7/8" i.d. If I find something a little bit smaller, I can drill or bore it. Suggestions?
 
You guys are having the same problem because you failed to match the components. The 39 pedal conversion requires the use of the 39 pedal and the related 39 clutch release arm. The transmission release arm is specific for 39. If you attempt use the 35-38 clutch release arm it does not align correctly.
 
Possibly the neatest way...Richard's kit to hook the original pedal assembly to master cylinder. Probably the '39 pedal assembly would cover the cost...those things have gotten pricey in recent years.
 
When the pedals are properly located in the earlier frame, there is still about an inch of offset in the clutch linkage. Some of this may be contributed to by the fact that the 35-38 pedals mount on the engine side of the frame, while the 39's mount on the oposite side, plus differences in other dimensions.

Spadaro is right, but finding a 91A arm is not easy AND trying to "harvest" one off another transmission, especially if it is still in the chassis, isn't easy either. Removing the existing arm is also a challenge. Making a linkage that is bent into an offset of the one inch will usually solve the problem and still allow for adjustment. I believe that the 91A lever might be a little longer than the 35-38? and have more of an angle leftward??? - have to go look... This will make the ratio/leverage/pedal travel a little different than a "true 39" but it seems to work ok from my experience.

It has been often stated here on the Barn that when installing 39 pedals in a 35-38 frame (they are not appropriate for 32 or 33-4 - too much butchering)
that "one hole lines up". I have found that to not be correct...and following that plan results in the pedals being out of the ideal correct position. Because
they are mounted on the angled x member leg, if they are installed too far forward, they will also be too far to the left, and if they are installed too far
rearward, they will also be too far to the right. In the case here, there is more
clutch linkage offset, so they might be too far forward?

I have a frame section for a 39 from which I made a template/pattern that can be used to drill the proper holes in the proper location AND to make the proper
cutout in the frame without compromising the structural integrity of the frame. (I have seen cases where someone whacked and hacked the frame (using trial and mostly error) so much that when either pedal is pushed, the
frame actually twists.) I can send a copy to anyone in need in exchange for a little "lunch money" to cover my costs.

Even when the 39 pedals are properly located, there are still issues with clutch pedal arm clearance with the frame, and location of the pedals in the floor. We
have all seen cars with 39 pedals where the pedal arms have been "adjusted"
and the pedal stems are "whopper-jawed" in the floor because the stems are
no longer perpendicular to the pivot shaft. This condition then results in the need to have an elongated (sideways) hole in the floorboard, since the stem
starts out in one place, but moves sideways as the pedal is depressed.

There are alternatives to installing 39 pedals to do a conversion that does not require any butchering, as the original pedals (and mechanical stoplight switch) are retained, along with the original clutch linkage, AND no need to
move the battery (35-36's) or to cut a hole in the front floor to access the
MC filler cap, and no need to rework the pedals - so they still fit the original floor board and function and appear as they always have. (and THANK YOU Bruce!)
 
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Here are some pictures of Richard Lacy's hydraulic brake system for hooking up a master cylinder in a '35-'36 frame while using the stock '35-'36 pedals. For me, this was a better solution than installing '39 pedals and having the master cylinder in the way of mounting the battery in its original location. I assume Richard has a similar system for '37-'38.
 

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Zeke-

There are two ways to solve your problem. 1) Replace your existing arm with a '39 arm (arm on the left in photo). Unfortunately, finding a '39 arm at a realistic price may be akin to finding the Locknest Monster. Your best option would probably be welding an additional "yoke" on to your existing pedal assembly similar to what is pictured below.

Tom
 
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