Thanks,
I've decided to remove the axle and leave the engine in place. Will take pics of progress.
38' truck 4 speed trans leak
- Thread starter RBaker
- Start date
Thanks,
I've decided to remove the axle and leave the engine in place. Will take pics of progress.
Cleaned up the old 3 speed this morning......working this morning had me thinking how lucky I've been with this old truck.
I got lucky the truck sat in a barn so long and is virtually rust free....every piece of the body is in great condition.
I got lucky on the engine.....when I got the truck I had no idea of it's condition but after a little cleanup and tinkering it runs excellent.
I got lucky I met an older neighbor that gave me a transmission for FREE and in the same time we became friends.
For that matter since working on the truck I have met at least 5 or 6 people from my area that just wanted to stop by and take a look then we end up talking about cars for hours.
Best thing is my dad got involved even though he is unable to do any work on it.....that ends up making great memories along with making the truck even more special.
I had a guy stop by Saturday and offer me $4,000 for the truck as it sits.....I thought to myself this guy must be crazy....I told him no way
It's amazing what a junky old truck pulled from a barn can do.......
I got lucky the truck sat in a barn so long and is virtually rust free....every piece of the body is in great condition.
I got lucky on the engine.....when I got the truck I had no idea of it's condition but after a little cleanup and tinkering it runs excellent.
I got lucky I met an older neighbor that gave me a transmission for FREE and in the same time we became friends.
For that matter since working on the truck I have met at least 5 or 6 people from my area that just wanted to stop by and take a look then we end up talking about cars for hours.
Best thing is my dad got involved even though he is unable to do any work on it.....that ends up making great memories along with making the truck even more special.
I had a guy stop by Saturday and offer me $4,000 for the truck as it sits.....I thought to myself this guy must be crazy....I told him no way
It's amazing what a junky old truck pulled from a barn can do.......
Attachments
Henry/Kokomo
Well-known member
If you go with headers - not a bad idea, IMO - you owe it to yourself to at least check with Red's Headers in Thousandd Palms, CA (760) 343-2590. Fair prices and excellent quality parts. FWIW.
Thank you.
I will check that out.....I would stick with the cast iron originals but from the looks of the studs where the pipe connects it will be a fight to get those old studs out....they have pretty much rusted into the cast iron itself.
Some pitting too.....
Tinker
Well-known member
Fentons are nice. Honest Charlie, reds, speedway, many companies have them.
You will not need to modify the dipstick on the 37' with them. I did have the driverside milled 1/8" for better clearance around the steering box. But you really don't need to do that, it's was a bolt on and go deal.
You will not need to modify the dipstick on the 37' with them. I did have the driverside milled 1/8" for better clearance around the steering box. But you really don't need to do that, it's was a bolt on and go deal.
Fentons are nice. Honest Charlie, reds, speedway, many companies have them.
You will not need to modify the dipstick on the 37' with them. I did have the driverside milled 1/8" for better clearance around the steering box. But you really don't need to do that, it's was a bolt on and go deal.
You just saved me $10....Bob Drake sells Reds headers for $195, Red has them on their site for $185.
Every dollar saved helps....thanks Tinker & Henry!
Walt Dupont--Me.
Well-known member
When you remove the 4 speed, if the bellhousing on the trans with the clutch thro out fork on it unbolts off the trans with 6 bolts, SAVE IT, it makes a good adapter to bolt a later trans to a flathead. Like a T-5. Walt
Will do that.....thanks for the advice.
OLD...BILL
Well-known member
Ron; Go with the tube (Reds) header, I look at something like that and say; " Can I fix it," if it breaks. ??? The cast iron ( Fentons ) yes you can weld them, BUT can they stand the heatexchang after welding ?? The tube header "I" can weld and go own down the road,.. done it and will do it again, thats just me.....OLD....BILL
P.S. The tube header is smooooooth inside, not Fenton ...Big " if " did you do a port and relief to you block and now your going to bolt on Fentons ??? YOU LOSE. ..yes I know a big case of worms coming my way hee,hee heeeee.. OB
P.S. The tube header is smooooooth inside, not Fenton ...Big " if " did you do a port and relief to you block and now your going to bolt on Fentons ??? YOU LOSE. ..yes I know a big case of worms coming my way hee,hee heeeee.. OB
Hi Old Bill,
I'm going with the (Reds) headers.....see I do listen to you! haha
About to upload some pics of the ole 4 speed.....removed it this morning.
I removed the rear axle, drive shaft & 4 speed trans this morning......axle and drive shaft were easy but the big old 4 speed not so much!
I could tell right away this 4 speed was not suppose to be in this truck.....they actually notched the trans mounting frame a tiny bit just so it would fit.
The problem I had was getting the rear of the trans high enough to come over the top of the trans mounting bracket on the frame....I had to loosen the long bolts that attach to the rear of the block as much as possible....then jack the rear of the engine up as high as I could. That trans was wedged in tight! Eventually I used a crowbar to lift up the rear of the trans high enough and finally ease it back and out.
That 4 speed is about 30 pounds heavier than the 3 speed....and a lot bigger in size.
The rear of the 4 speed is 12" tall compared to the rear of the 3 speed at 9" tall.
From the mounting ears on the trans the 4 speed drops down 7" while the 3 speed only drops down 5"......that's why I had so much trouble getting the trans up and out..... at one point I was thinking I might need to pull the whole engine.
If anyone needs a 4 speed let me know....
I could tell right away this 4 speed was not suppose to be in this truck.....they actually notched the trans mounting frame a tiny bit just so it would fit.
The problem I had was getting the rear of the trans high enough to come over the top of the trans mounting bracket on the frame....I had to loosen the long bolts that attach to the rear of the block as much as possible....then jack the rear of the engine up as high as I could. That trans was wedged in tight! Eventually I used a crowbar to lift up the rear of the trans high enough and finally ease it back and out.
That 4 speed is about 30 pounds heavier than the 3 speed....and a lot bigger in size.
The rear of the 4 speed is 12" tall compared to the rear of the 3 speed at 9" tall.
From the mounting ears on the trans the 4 speed drops down 7" while the 3 speed only drops down 5"......that's why I had so much trouble getting the trans up and out..... at one point I was thinking I might need to pull the whole engine.
If anyone needs a 4 speed let me know....
Attachments
Tinker
Well-known member
Isn't that for the 49-53 truck flathead? Not yours.
I'm not sure.....any idea what ratio it might have in it now? How would I know what I have?
It's possible the old farmer that had the truck may have changed it out in the past......I notice more and more the guy went completely through this truck.
The old man had skills and was one heck of a good welder luckily he was able to fix things when they broke.
41ford1
Well-known member
There are two numbers stamped into the bottom of the diff housing near the pinion. These numbers will be good if the gears haven't been changed. Mine were 11 and 39. Divide the smaller into the larger and you will get the ratio. Ex 39/11= 3.54. Since you have every thing disconnected you could count the turns of the drive shaft when you rotate both wheels one rev. If you lock one wheel and rotate the other one then divide the drive shaft by 2.
Tinker
Well-known member
On a farm you definitely need to be a jack of all trades.
I took this off the Hamb for you, I won't claim that I wrote it, I just researched it for you.
"The gear ratio on the banjo rear is usually stamped on the bottom of the center section close to where the torque tube bolts up. the first # is your ring gear and the second is your pinion. You should see 39-9 for 4.33 to 1 34-9 for 3.78 to 1 39-11 for 3.54 to 1 and 37-9 for 4.11 to 1 These numbers and info are right out of an old ford V-8 manual!"
See also...
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67850&highlight=banjo+gear+info
rebuilding the banjo
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=462776&highlight=banjo+rebuild
Just trying to help!
I took this off the Hamb for you, I won't claim that I wrote it, I just researched it for you.
"The gear ratio on the banjo rear is usually stamped on the bottom of the center section close to where the torque tube bolts up. the first # is your ring gear and the second is your pinion. You should see 39-9 for 4.33 to 1 34-9 for 3.78 to 1 39-11 for 3.54 to 1 and 37-9 for 4.11 to 1 These numbers and info are right out of an old ford V-8 manual!"
See also...
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67850&highlight=banjo+gear+info
rebuilding the banjo
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=462776&highlight=banjo+rebuild
Just trying to help!
Hoop
Well-known member
I take a little different approach to determining which gears I have.
First, I check to see what's stamped under there on the web near the torque tube. That indicates what was originally installed.
Then, I remove the fill plug on the banjo, clean off one of the teeth on the ring gear, and mark it with whatever white stuff is available. The white stuff is going to take an oil bath, but you can still see it if it's heavy enough.
Use a screwdriver stuck in the fill hole to count the teeth as you turn one of the rear wheels (hold the other.)
See if the number of teeth matches the larger number stamped on the bottom. Probably be 34 or 37 as Tinker noted. Unlikely to be 39, BUT always could be. If they match, there's a good chance you'll be right on the money.,
First, I check to see what's stamped under there on the web near the torque tube. That indicates what was originally installed.
Then, I remove the fill plug on the banjo, clean off one of the teeth on the ring gear, and mark it with whatever white stuff is available. The white stuff is going to take an oil bath, but you can still see it if it's heavy enough.
Use a screwdriver stuck in the fill hole to count the teeth as you turn one of the rear wheels (hold the other.)
See if the number of teeth matches the larger number stamped on the bottom. Probably be 34 or 37 as Tinker noted. Unlikely to be 39, BUT always could be. If they match, there's a good chance you'll be right on the money.,
I was outside this morning and saw those number when I flipped the rear end over.....had no idea what it meant until I saw your post.
My numbers were 9/34.
You have been a great help....I'm learning more everyday from the comments.
Another good tip....Will try that too!