38 transmission

36coupe

36coupe

Well-known member
I need some schooling concerning my 38 transmission.
75% of the time shifting is fine. But other times I can not get it in 1st or reverse. I will put in second and roll forward then it will go. Sometimes to blip the throttle and the revs drop off it will go in.
I try to match the engine speed when moving and shifting.
Should I try to lower the idle speed?

If I found a 39 transmission are they better? I know the hot rodders look for 39 transmissions.
Please school me on these transmissions.
 
Lindsay, your problem in shifting while standing may be your clutch being out of adjustment. I'd check that before spending money on the ******. The '39 Ford came out with a better synchronizer, but wouldn't affect your particular problem. The definitive answer would be from Mac Van Pelt, who is a regular on this Forum and can also supply you with all your transmission needs and the best transmission book out there.

Look to Dennis Carpenter for the door handles. Dennis is the manufacturer of these handles, and they are superb. Many sources for the battery hold down, but all will be generic, without the clip on the back to the firewall. Dennis may have an NOS one, but it will be pricy if he does. I believed he has the NOS hold down bolts also.
 
Check the blocker in the transmission tower. This prevents going into two gears at once. If badly worn and sloppy, it will need to be overhauled. Same is true of work shift forks.
 
First and reverse do not have a synchro with sharp teeth to aid in alignment. Instead the slider gear has to align with the spacing in the first and reverse gears on the cluster. If the slider hits the cluster gear teeth dead center, it won't slide by. Blipping the throttle while in neutral moves the cluster orientation so a second try should usually let you get it in low or reverse.
 
The gears are still spinning when you are in neutral. The very simple thing to do while the car is not moving is shift from neutral into second or third, then shift into first or reverse. Shifting into second or third will stop the gears from spinning and allow you to go into first or reverse with no problem. An old timer taught me that trick in 1956 when I first started driving and have been doing it since then.
 
Okay thanks for the advice!
I will check the adjustment.
Most times no problem getting into gear cold but after it is warmed up one time it's okay and the next grinding like crazy. I been tempted to turn it off and start it in gear with the clutch in.
I have an old indian MC with a crash box transmission and it shifts fine, this one has had me stumped.
 
The motorcycles are sliding gear, more like a Model A. The synchros in the later transmissions up through early 39 were better but the 39 & later big syncro with the blocker rings is a very good design. All will still give troubles when parts are worn excessively. As was already mentioned, clutch adjustment is critical too. It has to completely disengage or there will be problems due to that. Low and reverse gears are still just sliders like the motorcycle but with proper technique a person can generally get them go in without grinding. If it still grinds with the clutch in then take a very good look as the clutch adjustment and condition.

You might find a copy of Mac VanPelt's early Ford transmission book. It will explain how to work on your 38 transmissin and how to convert it to the later configuration if you wish to. The wide shift fork is now being reproduced and there are still a lot of old side shifter transmissions out there with later gear sets in them for conversion. New gears are available too but they would be more expensive to purchase by piece part.
 
rotorwrench said:
The motorcycles are sliding gear, more like a Model A. The synchros in the later transmissions up through early 39 were better but the 39 & later big syncro with the blocker rings is a very good design. All will still give troubles when parts are worn excessively. As was already mentioned, clutch adjustment is critical too. It has to completely disengage or there will be problems due to that. Low and reverse gears are still just sliders like the motorcycle but with proper technique a person can generally get them go in without grinding. If it still grinds with the clutch in then take a very good look as the clutch adjustment and condition.
You might find a copy of Mac VanPelt's early Ford transmission book. It will explain how to work on your 38 transmissin and how to convert it to the later configuration if you wish to. The wide shift fork is now being reproduced and there are still a lot of old side shifter transmissions out there with later gear sets in them for conversion. New gears are available too but they would be more expensive to purchase by piece part.
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The strange thing is that it had to get into gear about one out five times. Probably a lot of operator error.
1931 flamingo said:
What are you using as a lubricant (weight) in the ******??
Paul in CT
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I'm using GL-5 75/90 nothing fancy. Would a high dollar syn. Oil work better?I'm limited as to what I can find around here.
I change the rear and transmission oil when I got the car this summer. It is a 67000 mile original car.
 
I would change that GL5 oil out....unless it specifically states ok for yellow metals. We recommend GL4. Also, we suggest 140 wt oil instead of the lighter 85 or 90 wt. ford recommended 140 for summer and 90 for winter.

When you stated "hard to shift into first gear" you were not very specific. Did it grind a bit? Was it physically harder to push the lever into that gear? Did the lever hang up somehow in trying to locate first?

As others have stated, clutch adjustment should be checked.....1 to 1-1/2" free play is correct. There could be other problems in the trans....worn gears or worn shift forks etc.
 
Straight grade oils are getting harder to source but they are still available. GL-1 or at least GL-4 would be better for the yellow metal. GL-3 is very hard to source. Many of the more modern GL-5 oils have a different sulphur formula that won't eat into the copper based metal alloys as much but it is difficult to tell what is in there with todays grading system. Many of the lube producers have proprietary mixes that can not be identified by looking at the product container. The extra pressure sulphur is acidic so it will microsopically coat the wear surfaces to build up an extra presure coating on the gear faces. Unfortunately it also coats everything else in there too and eats into the copper based alloys.

That SAE 140 gear lube will make that cluster gear stop turning pretty quick. As was mentioned before, a drop into another forward gear will also stop the cluster from rotating. If it won't then the clutch is not fully disengaging.
 
Mac VP said:
I would change that GL5 oil out....unless it specifically states ok for yellow metals. We recommend GL4. Also, we suggest 140 wt oil instead of the lighter 85 or 90 wt. ford recommended 140 for summer and 90 for winter.

When you stated "hard to shift into first gear" you were not very specific. Did it grind a bit? Was it physically harder to push the lever into that gear? Did the lever hang up somehow in trying to locate first?

As others have stated, clutch adjustment should be checked.....1 to 1-1/2" free play is correct. There could be other problems in the trans....worn gears or worn shift forks etc.
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I researched GL5 oils for another vehicle that I have and it's seems that it is not considered a problem anymore with today's mixture. GL4 is hard to find at any of the local auto parts stores. I will change out to 140wt right away.
Should I change the rear end to 149 wt as well?

By hard to shift I mean grinding after it has been driven for a while but not an issue when it is cold.
I will check the clutch adjustment.
I suspect the internals are in pretty good shape as it was basically a one owner car with 67000 miles and was babied its whole life. Everything is very tight.

rotorwrench said:
Straight grade oils are getting harder to source but they are still available. GL-1 or at least GL-4 would be better for the yellow metal. GL-3 is very hard to source. Many of the more modern GL-5 oils have a different sulphur formula that won't eat into the copper based metal alloys as much but it is difficult to tell what is in there with todays grading system. Many of the lube producers have proprietary mixes that can not be identified by looking at the product container. The extra pressure sulphur is acidic so it will microsopically coat the wear surfaces to build up an extra presure coating on the gear faces. Unfortunately it also coats everything else in there too and eats into the copper based alloys.

That SAE 140 gear lube will make that cluster gear stop turning pretty quick. As was mentioned before, a drop into another forward gear will also stop the cluster from rotating. If it won't then the clutch is not fully disengaging.
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Any ideas where to source a single wt? Even tractor shops all have modern fluids today. Everything in the local auto shops is GL5 around here.
I'm going to change the oil in the transmission and rear to 140 today and check the clutch adjustment.
Thanks
 
The local bearing shops usually carry Lubriplate SPO series gear lubricants. Restoration Supply Co carries Heritage, Lubriplate, and Penrite lubricants for older automobiles.
 
I ended up buying Lucas 85/140 and tried that. That seemed to slow the gears down and allows me to engage 1st with out grinding. It should work until I find a better replacement over the winter.
 
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