'38 steering box

[Will D]

Figured I'd deal with the steering box while I have the engine out. Came across this lovely mess upon removing the wiring from the steering wheel switch. I can't believe everything still worked, the running lights had just started to cause the amp meter to go bonkers. But the headlights and horn worked fine. The goo looks like the same 600W steam cylinder oil I found in the rear end prior to rebuilding. Messy stuff!

 

[V8COOPMAN]

.

Looks like that ought to taste like "JIFFY"! DD

 

[Will D]

Looks tasty don't it coop

I'm thinking it is leaking thru the brass tube connected to the bottom plate. I remember reading somewhere that this should be soldered or epoxy to seal it up, but I can't seem to find the thread now. Can anyone confirm this or suggest a remedy that has worked for them?

 

[Will D]

Can anyone confirm this or suggest a remedy that has worked for them?

Nobody?

 

[V8COOPMAN]

Nobody?

____________________________________________________



WILL....."Copied & Pasted" from an earlier thread from Terry,OH. Terry usually has a pretty good handle on how the cow is supposed to eat the cabbage. DD

Originally Posted by Terry,OH

There is an steel end plate with a brass tube crimped in the center. The horn rod passes through the brass tube. If you remove the end plate and inner tube you can silver solder the tube to the end plate. The tubes usually crack at this point. If your not ready to do either repair and the corn head has run out of the box, there is not much more that can be done.

 

[Will D]

Thanks coop.

"The tubes usually crack at this point" as a result of soldering? Or due to new stress points after a solder repair? The crimp can't flex so the tube cracks? I'll can try sending PM to Terry OH.

 

[V8COOPMAN]

Thanks coop.

"The tubes usually crack at this point" as a result of soldering? Or due to new stress points after a solder repair? The crimp can't flex so the tube cracks? I'll can try sending PM to Terry OH.

I've never had the pleasure, but I'm reading it such that the tubes usually crack at that point.....allowing a small leak. But WTF do I know? DD

 

[TerryOH]

If you have an older in service tube that is leaking and you would like to solder the tube to the end plate. The leaking area is usually at the junction of the tube and end plate on the side of the end plate that is toward the inside of the steering box. You want to solder over and around the leaking area to repair the leak, there is room for the solder to build up around the end plate and the tube. So there is no need to remove solder after the repair cools. Be aware the end plates are plated and silver solder will not stick to the plating so remove the plating before soldering so the solder sticks to both the brass rod and the end plate.

 

[Will D]

Great info, thank you Terry,OH

 

[TerryOH]

Your welcome! Good luck

 

[Will D]

That worked slick. I can solder wiring all day long but have always been terrible with soldering pipes. My saving grace was the concave shape to hold the flux.

After cleaning it all up and removing the plating where I was going to solder, I also used a fine tip diamond dremel bit and put a slight groove in the steel plate around the brass tube on both sides just to make sure there would be a solid adhesion point. The solder pulled thru just enough to seal the outside without making a mess.

 

[V8COOPMAN]

That worked slick. I can solder wiring all day long but have always been terrible with soldering pipes. My saving grace was the concave shape to hold the flux.

After cleaning it all up and removing the plating where I was going to solder, I also used a fine tip diamond dremel bit and put a slight groove in the steel plate around the brass tube on both sides just to make sure there would be a solid adhesion point. The solder pulled thru just enough to seal the outside without making a mess.

Man...........Ain't no big trick for a show dog. You done GOOD there, Will D! DD


........

 

[TerryOH]

Good looking job. Your end plate is a little unusual with the raised area, it is one stamping is it not? As one stamping there is no possibility of another leak area.
Make sure the end of the box does not have burrs around the bolt holes, a new gasket and a dab of ultra black RTV. Make sure none of the bolt holes go into the box on the lube side so they can not leak.

 

[Will D]

Man...........Ain't no big trick for a show dog.
........

Haha, you'd get a good chuckle if you seen my practice piece. I can't take no credit, I might have been holding the torch but can't believe it turned out.

Your end plate is a little unusual with the raised area, it is one stamping is it not?

I can't tell for certain, the steel ring around the brass tube on the outside of the plate appears to be a separate piece judging by the seam edges. From the inside of the plate, I can't tell at all. I've filled the concave/inner side with MMO and left to sit on a white piece of paper. Hopefully if it's gonna leak, it will do so before the new bushings and seal arrive.

I couldn't find any pictures showing a similar end plate, but we know how hard I look. DD was able to find your related comment/thread in minutes.

 

[alchemy]

Y'all do know that the gasket for the end plate/tube is not just a gasket, but a shim of the proper thickness? Make sure to use either the exact same thickness, or re-examine if you should maybe adjust the thickness for a better fit on your bearings if they are worn.

 

[Will D]

Y'all do know that the gasket for the end plate/tube is not just a gasket, but a shim of the proper thickness? Make sure to use either the exact same thickness, or re-examine if you should maybe adjust the thickness for a better fit on your bearings if they are worn.

Yes sir, thank you for noting as things like that can be easily overlooked. I never could wrap my head around the steering box adjustments/shims until I rebuilt the banjo rear. Now that I have the steering box apart, I can see that the same principle applies for setting preload on the tapered roller bearings with gaskets/shims.