38 ford motor change

1

1956 ford

Member
I have a 1938 coupe with a 60hp engine can anyone know what changes I have to make to install a 100hp i have been told the front crossmember has to be change?
 
I don’t believe you have to change crossmember. They are 60 only and kinda an add on. The big v8 engine mount and hose should already be there. A big v8 transmission with 38 style rear trans housing mount. Radiator. 60 is smaller. Should be the main items with some other odds and ends.
 
Kiwi pretty much nailed it.
There are brackets riveted to the cross member for the 60HP that will have to be removed. Easy task.
Radiator and side shrouds are different.
 
It's a pretty easy swap as other have given tips about. Albiet, time consuming. It will be worth the work.

Bob C mentioned the rear end rear ratio. I would definately consider 3.54 gearing.
 
1956 ford said:
I have a 1938 coupe with a 60hp engine can anyone know what changes I have to make to install a 100hp i have been told the front crossmember has to be change?
Click to expand...


BELOW are the two "ADAPTER" mounts that you will have to remove from the front crossmember.

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This pic BELOW shows what these little mounts look like installed and supporting the anemic little engine.


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And here they are on their way to becoming "spare parts"!

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Coop


.
 
no,totally different, rear has different ratio usually 4:44
the wheels can be more narrow also, and the front spring is weaker because of less engine weight,
 
The 78 case was used in cars through 1939 but that was the change over year for the new synchronizer. 1937 & 38 transmissions work OK but have the early synchronizer. Pickups kept the case till replaced in 1952 but the pickup version has the short main shaft set up starting in 1942 for open drive and the gearing is more truck like in some cases. Side loaders used up through 1948 have good guts in them and they will work in the 78 case. The double detent shifter and a 91A 2nd/high shift fork works with the late synchro and are the best parts to look for if you can find them. The rear engine mount may be the same on the 60HP but I'm not sure enough to say without looking up the parts in the green bible. Mac VP's book is a must if piece parting a transmission together. Good complete transmissions are getting harder to source every year. Hot rodders used to be the best source since they usually pitch the old 3-speed. Everybody wants a 5-speed now days.
 
what’s wrong with your 60, they do require a different driving technique, no good at lugging, wind second out to 45, downshift to 2nd as soon as it slows to 40.
when I had one it was happy at 65, flat out 73 as advertised, kept below 60 should give over 20 mpg, about 18 at 70, 25 mpg cruising at 50.
at first I was afraid to drive like that until I bought a lot of engine parts from old hydroplane racer, he told me that a stock bottom end was good for more than 2 seasons at 7000 rpm, but 1/2 season at 7500.
 
We have a local V8 Club member with a 60 hp 1937 pickup and he drives it on most of our tours. He reports it is more sensitive to tuning than the bigger engines since the loss in power is much more noticeable. In good tune it goes well. He added the lower ratio overdrive from Mitchell and kept the stock 60 hp axle ratio. He recently added dual exhaust and it sounds good.
 
1956 ford said:
What if I go to open drive shaft and install T5 transmission with stock rear end
will the wish bone be strength enough?
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Don't allow anyone to convince you that the stock wishbone arms are up to controlling the torque necessary of the rear axle. That robust TORQUE TUBE was named such for a good reason. You'll need to create new geometric tubing to accompany the existing two rods. They should be designed to articulate in a similar fashion (at a single point) like the originals do when attached to the torque tube. A really well-designed wishbone supplemental arrangement will articulate just like the original in perfect alignment with the hidden U-joint (both up & down as well as left & and right) so as the original geometry is emulated. Otherwise, there will be binding as the rear end rises and falls over bumps and such, which over time will break even the most robust of parts. Read the following piece that I wrote-up years ago in an attempt to bring understanding to designing a working wishbone support system to make your wishbone splitting adventure more effective and long-lasting. Click on the link BELOW!

Coop

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2080894&postcount=724
 
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