'37 wiring question

S

storyteller

Member
I do NOT show a discharge on the amp meter when I flip up the ignition switch. I checked the switch and have even used a jumper test wire to bypass the switch, still no movement on the amp gauge. Amp gauge does show discharges for other draws of voltage.
I have a new harness, new battery, have checked and double-checked every wire for proper hookup. I DO have voltage to the coil. I have pulled the distributor, installed new points, double checked the alignments of the coil conversion adapter, new 6v coil, new fuse.

Another strange thing is that when I flip the ignition switch up, the gas gauge shows 1/2 tank OK but the OIL pressure gauge goes up to about 20 pounds without the engine running. We have checked all wires against the color coded wiring diagrams and are stumped as to why we can' get her to have spark and fire up.
 
If the ignition points are open, you won't have a complete circuit to show a draw. To check this, use your voltmeter on the coil supply wire. It will show full battery voltage if the points are open, and about 2 volts less if closed.

Your oil pressure sender may be stuck. You'll need a special wrench to get it out to clean the sludge out. A crows foot wrench will work, but better than that is to heat the handle of an open end and bend it up.
 
Coil conversion adapter? All the guys will kick sand in your face when they see that! :D

OK, so you don't have spark for one of several reasons:
You are running a coil with an internal resistor and also running through the original Ford resistor.
or:
The heavy spring - contact on your adapter isn't making contact with the rotor.
 
Thanks again. I will check the distributor again. I can't find any markings on my coil so I do not know if it has an internal resistor or not. Is there any way to test a coil to see if it has a resistor built in?
'Gotta go now and rinse the sand out of my eyes. Gene
 
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