37 starting question

oswego37

Senior Member
I have a 37 that starts right up when its cold. after i've run it for awhile , I will turn it off, and 20 min or so later it will not start. If I pump the accelerator pedal 5-6 i t may start reluctently. carb recent rebuild by Charlie NY. I put a new fuel pump on with similar results. doesn't seem like I should get vapor lock on a short ride on an 80degree day. temp is 180-190.
Thanks, Ernie
 
If you have a glass bowl fuel filter, is the level dropping from full? If so one of the valves in the fuel pump is sticking open slightly allowing fuel to drain back to the tank. IMO vapor lock is not a problem.
Do you have a Stromberg 97 Carb?
 
First inclination, since you said you recently had the carburetor and fuel pump done by CharlieNY, would be to double check all the fuel line attachment points and make double sure they are all tight and you are not loosing suction at one of the fittings and the fuel is draining back to the tank. Have you had your coil done by Skip and or how old is your condenser and points??
 
more info. no glass bowl on the pump, stromberg 97 carb, rebuilt by Charlie, Iput a new pump on fromD ennis Carpenter, new in the box but 20 yrs old. coil by Skip, condenser and points new. I did not have the fuel pump rebuilt
that was on the car when this issue came up. maybe neither pump is in good working order?
 
FOR Me......IF my carburetor goes to Charlie....SO does my fuel pump.....OR vice versa!!!! Cheap insurance AND I know neither will be any future problem!!!
 
Try 1/2 choke on a hot start. I read that here and in an owners manual. 80% of the time it works every time.
 
Try 1/2 choke on a hot start. I read that here and in an owners manual. 80% of the time it works every time.

only 20 mins.between runs--- i would agree or no choke.my '37 flathead does not like to be choked after thaqt short a period. Tom.
 
At this point I would do the basic test to determine if the problem is lack of fuel, or lack of spark. When the problem occurs:

Look down the carburetor while moving the throttle to see two squirts of fuel.

Prop a spark plug lead about 1/2 inch away from any ground, then while cranking with ignition on, see a good blue spark.
 
of course there could be many problems. but "heat soak" is one, IME, that fits the bill here as well as any other.

"heat soak" is what happens after an engine is fully warmed up, driven for a while, and then the key is turned off. when the ignition is turned off and the with the hood closed the temperature inside the engine compartment rises rapidly within a few minutes from the radiating residual heat in the heads. it should not be surprising, after all, the water pump is not turning and so there is no coolant moving, the fan is not turning and there is no ambient air blowing through the engine bay. all three, in combination, are normally what keeps the engine from massively overheating. this is rarely noticed as most people leave their cars after the turn off the ignition.

as the temp in the engine compartment rises, so does the temperature of the fuel in the floatbowl and at some point it will become so hot that it will be partially atomized even before it is mixed with air. if one attempts to start the car at that time, the fuel/air mixture will be too LEAN to combust properly. and "that time' is actually an interval that may start less than ten minutes after engine shutdown and extend for up to an hour.

and oddly enough, enrichening the mixture a bit with the choke can actually permit the car to start. but it may run very rough for up to thirty seconds or so before a cooler mix of fuel reaches the jets.

the only remedy i've found if one suspects the conditions are ripe for "heat soak" is to develop a habit leaving the hood open a foot or so after turning off the ignition until one returns. there are other remedies such as installing an auxiliary fan or something similar.

this is usually a problem in carbureted cars only. and usually only a starting issue. once started if the car continues to run poorly, it's most likely due to something else. and if opening the hood fully doesn't fix the problem, again, it's most likely something else.
 
Last edited:
ernie,
What is the condition of the flexible fuel hose going to the fuel pump? A friend had a similar problem and replaced both the carb and fuel pump with new ones and still didn't help. He finally suspected the flexible hose - it was old, but looked fine and outwardly, it showed no sign of leaks or problems but he had a lot of problems getting it to restart after driving for a while and then shutting it down. He removed the flex hose and plugged up one end and immersed it in a bowl of water and blew compressed air into the open end and the hose bubbled up and down its length! The flex hose was sucking enough air to prevent adequate fuel delivery to the carb. He replaced the flex hose and that solved his problem.
 
Back
Top