37 ****** replacement

1

1937sedandelivery

Senior Member
Hello, my 37 Fordor has a bad ****** and needs to be replaced. I have never done this before.
Question1: can I somehow replace the ****** without moving the rear end? I read somewhere that the rear end needs to be disconnected so that it can be lowered and pulled back enough to remove the driveline, etc. That all makes send but I don't have the means to easily do this, so am asking for any work arounds.

Question 2: I bought a replacement ****** but after removing the top end it looks slightly different from the original in the car now. Please see two pics attached. First one is the one that is installed. Second one is the one I bought, which is supposed to be from a 37.

Thanks so much,
gregg
 

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1937sedandelivery said:
Hello, my 37 Fordor has a bad ****** and needs to be replaced. I have never done this before.
Question1: can I somehow replace the ****** without moving the rear end? I read somewhere that the rear end needs to be disconnected so that it can be lowered and pulled back enough to remove the driveline, etc. That all makes send but I don't have the means to easily do this, so am asking for any work arounds.

Question 2: I bought a replacement ****** but after removing the top end it looks slightly different from the original in the car now. Please see two pics attached. First one is the one that is installed. Second one is the one I bought, which is supposed to be from a 37.

Thanks so much,
gregg
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545677


545678
 
The pic of the cleaner one has straight cut gears so its 35 and earlier. Since you are going thru all that trouble put in a 39 trans complete with the shift tower. You might have to use a 39 clutch arm also.
 
deuce lover has given excellent advice. ‘39 is the way to go. You won’t be sorry.
There are two ways to remove the ******: Pull the engine or drop the differential. The latter is the easiest way to go. A 15 year old kid can do the job with a set of jackstands and a beginner set of tools. Ask me how I know.
 
The 78 case is the same and likely the cluster gear as well for a 91A type transmission on the unit currently in the car. The all helical 37 transmission is a better unit than the early one with straight cut low gear and the straight splined main shaft. A person would need the parts to make up a 91A type set up.

VanPelt Sales is a good place to get parts to overhaul or upgrade. His early Ford transmission manual is a must if looking for parts for upgrade. I don't think the 1937 version had the double detent shift tower yet but a single detent will work. The best way to update is find a good side shift or top shift transmission that already has the needed gears and synchroniser to do the conversion. The top shift 91A high gear fork is necessary as well.

Jack and support the rear frame high enough to move the rear drive back. The radius rods have to clear so the support will need to accommodate that. The shocks and the rear spring will need to be disconnected along with the speedometer cable and any brake cable connections. As was mentioned, the engine can be removed but it may be a bit more complicated.
 
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If you order Mac Van Pelt's manual there are step by step instructions for the removal of the transmission. An extremely dedicated manual.
 
'39 ****** is the way to go. The earlier with straight gears howl like a fat cat. I

rebuilt using Van Pelt's book and parts. Van Pelt is super to deal with.
 
Yes, 39 transmission is way to go. As previously stated, you will need a 39 clutch lever. Since you have the transmission out now is the time to go through it. Bearings, synchro's, thrust pad, etc. Also I recommend cutting "O" ring groves in the case and using a modern oil like Redline MT 90. You will have a supper smooth shifting transmission that will not leak.
 

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40coe said:
Yes, 39 transmission is way to go. As previously stated, you will need a 39 clutch lever. Since you have the transmission out now is the time to go through it. Bearings, synchro's, thrust pad, etc. Also I recommend cutting "O" ring groves in the case and using a modern oil like Redline MT 90. You will have a supper smooth shifting transmission that will not leak.
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545855


545856
 
If you are using a 39 transmission in a 37 model car the clutch arm will have to be changed to a 37 model also. In early Fords the clutch arm must be the same year as the model year of the chassis.
 
Unless, of course, if the vehicle now has a 39 pedal assembly cuz he went to hydraulic brakes. Stick with the 35-38 arm if it’s still running the mechanic brakes. The pedal assembly will determine the clutch arm.
 
look for a 41 to 48 trans much cheaper take the gears out & put them in your case you will have to get the larger shift fork van pelts sells. 950 for a 39 trans if you can afford it is ezer. this hobby is getting cost prohibitive. either way its pain in the *** to change there is a 48 on ebay for 100,00
 
I did mine in March, the trans did not last long before it started popping out of first and not wanting to go into third. Bought a new/rebuilt '39 from Mac VanPelt and will be installing it in the next month or two. I know this one will hold up.

We dropped the rear diff. It was a bit of work but not that bad overall. I have juice brakes and did not have to disconnect the lines. The diff only needed to be moved back about 5 inches or so. The hardest part was breaking the torque tube loose from the trans. Ended up using a come-along attached to the diff of my '38 and then to my daily driver.

Best of luck! You will learn alot. ~Pat
 
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