'37 Light/Horn Switch Problem

Robert/Texas

Robert/Texas

Well-known member
When I bought this car last February, I noticed that the gap between the top of the steering column and the light switch/horn button seemed a little large but both the horn and lights worked fine so I didn't think much about it. Later when both horn and lights stopped working, I noticed that this gap had increased a good bit to over 1/4 inch. When I opened the switch at the bottom of the column, I found it stuffed with what appeared to be fresh chassis/wheel bearing grease so I cleaned it all out. (The steering box is/was filled with what appears to be transmission oil.) The c-clip was jammed to tight to get it out so I loosened the four screws that hold on the switch bracket and oil retainer. The c-clip was still jammed and the gap was still there so I gave up for the evening. The next morning I went back to work on it and something had relaxed and the gap between the steering column and switch/horn button was normal (tight) and both worked perfectly after I reassembled it. Now about six weeks later, the gap is growing again. At this point the lights work but the horn is "iffy".

I posted some about my problem on the old forum and thought I had the problem solved. Any further suggestions/ideas will be greatly appreciated.

 
Is the collar at the bottom of the steering tube tightened up properly? Is the bolt on the column drop tightened up?
 
Lawson,
I'm still vexed by the problem. I have not been able to figure out what are parts you are talking about. I am using the diagram on page 88 of the "Green Bible".

I drove the car about 80 miles in the brutal heat last Saturday and suprisingly the problem did not worsen.

Robert
 
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I had some weird troubles with horn and lights on my thirty eight coupe, it turned out to be the steering wheel nut was loose. As soon as it was tightened the troubles stopped.
 
Thanks for your help. I'll check the steering wheel nut when I get a chance. Also Lawson mentioned the collar at the bottom of the steering column and it is not real tight. I don't want to tighten this until I get the gap between the steering wheel and the switch fixed.
 
I think you did not go far enough, remove the light switch and then the c clip on 3643 remove 3643 and spring 3642 then remove the horn rod from the column. remove 3597 and solder the brass tube on 3597 to the steel plate, do this on the inside of the steel plate, before reassembly remove all the caked on dried up greese from the rod and the inside of the steering column with a long wire brush, make sure this gunk does not get onto the bearings of the steering box. Then reassemble what a difference!
 
The steering column must be removed from the car in order to remove the horn rod, if it's not removed the horn hits the roof well before the end of the horn rod is in sight.
 
I have removed the switch rod on my '39 Coupe without pulling the steering gear. Just let the rod bow as you pull it out and you can get it. Just be careful that it doesn't kink.
 
Thanks everyone. I had to leave where the car is this morning and won't be back for a week. I'm anxious to get back on it.
 
Thanks again to all of you. I finally got around to working on it yesterday and found the steering wheel nut to be real loose. It never felt loose while driving it. Tightened it up and all seems to be working well.
 
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