37 Ford radiator

Mark's 37

Senior Member
The seam across rear (engine side) bottom edge of the top tank is leaking. Previous owner did a roadside repair and it needs to be repaired. Can anyone recommend a reputable shop in the greater San Francisco/Monterey Bay area that could be trusted to restore it? Also, is there a quality OEM reproduction available?
 
If you can't find one in the Bay Area, Precision Radiator in West Sacramento still rebuilds/re-cores EFV8 radiators. They do excellent work.
 
Here are a couple photos, not sure if this is really repairable. Looks like JB Weld or something. Any advice?
 

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I found an NOS 81A at Little Dearborn. Price was right. Not saying they have any now, but just shows they are still around. If you do find an 81A, it works, but not Concourse correct.
 
When I took my '35 radiator in for repair, they led me to believe they could make tank repairs, too. I don't know whether they could exactly duplicate the original tank shape, or whether it would be functional but not original. As it turned out, mine didn't need it, but it might be worth checking with them to confirm.
 
I found an NOS 81A at Little Dearborn. Price was right. Not saying they have any now, but just shows they are still around. If you do find an 81A, it works, but not Concourse correct.

I have looked for 11 years for a NOS correct 78 A 85 hp and have come to the conclusion there is no such thing. My reasoning is I wonder if the 78A gave way to the 81A as a Ford parts replacement very early on as in 1938. I am using a NOS 81A in my 37 coupe and as you say not concours but neither is the 59AB engine in it. The 81A radiator which was used for 1938 and also 1939 standard 85 hp engines and you can use a pressure cap on it I have never seen a correct 78A radiator to see if it can also use a 4lb pressure cap. I found my NOS radiator in the V8 Times probably 8-10 years ago and seller claimed it was NOS in not a box but a Ford wood crate and that was the way he shipped it UPS ,luckily nothing poked through it. One thing this NOS radiator suffered from without ever being used was the inlets and outlets were all minutely cracked,mayby happened when manufactured I imagine ,radiator shop pointed it out to me as I took it in for testing just in case.He soldered each inside.
 
I believe you are correct. Typical on all replacement parts if the newer version fits the purpose. Also typical that your NOS had a defect. Mine had been bumped on the lower leg even before it had been painted. Had to use washers as spacers for mounting. What happens is that any part that reaches the assembly line that would require special handling was put aside to be boxed up as replacement parts for Dealers.
 
Yeah, the "emergency" repair is ugly but it worked when the previous owner was stuck on Hiway395 near Reno. I bought the car understanding the condition of the radiator. I don't want to put a non-original radiator in it being the car is a solid survivor. I talked with The Brass Works just now, they should change their name to The GOLD Works, and they can rebuild mine with the original tanks, etc. after they are repaired. The are booked out for 10 weeks so I got on the waiting list anyway. At least if it comes to that, I can drive it down to them and save on shipping. Meanwhile, maybe some more JB Weld or something to carry me over until then. It isn't leaking much small occasional drops into the fan and causing a surge when some mist shorts a plug. I don't want BarsLeak in this engine but it would probably work.
 
"they should change their name to The GOLD Works"

Yep, :) But the quality of their work (from my experience) is excellent.
 
Yeah, the "emergency" repair is ugly but it worked when the previous owner was stuck on Hiway395 near Reno. I bought the car understanding the condition of the radiator. I don't want to put a non-original radiator in it being the car is a solid survivor. I talked with The Brass Works just now, they should change their name to The GOLD Works, and they can rebuild mine with the original tanks, etc. after they are repaired. The are booked out for 10 weeks so I got on the waiting list anyway. At least if it comes to that, I can drive it down to them and save on shipping. Meanwhile, maybe some more JB Weld or something to carry me over until then. It isn't leaking much small occasional drops into the fan and causing a surge when some mist shorts a plug. I don't want BarsLeak in this engine but it would probably work.

Unfortunately radiator repair shops are getting fewer all the time. The environmental laws have put most out of business. The cost of the copper brass cores has skyrocketed. To maintain that originality it's going to be expensive.
 
Temporary fix accomplished. Cleaned up the previous repair a bit to the top tank to header leak at the soldered seam last night. Drained the coolant down to below the leak level, used an 8" length of 1/2" aluminum angle stock with Permatex "Right Stuff" sealant and clamped it over night to cure. Should last for awhile. I have used the Right Stuff sealant often, particularly sealing the front and rear intake manifolds on Ford FE (352-427), and it works great. Road tested after topping off the coolant and no leaks. A little black engine paint and it will look a lot better for now. Save my lunch money toward a Brass Works rebuild in a few months or a decent replacement if it appears.
 
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