37-41 distributor electronic conversion
- Thread starter Chrisidv
- Start date
Lawson Cox
Well-known member
Send your distributor to Bubba and have it set correctly. Points worked for over 80 years, and still going.
JSeery
Member Emeritus
Bubba also does the electronic setups. A lot depends on 6v vs 12v, believe the 6v units are a little on the touchy side.
http://www.bubbasignition.com/electronic-ignition.html
http://www.bubbasignition.com/home.html
http://www.bubbasignition.com/electronic-ignition.html
http://www.bubbasignition.com/home.html
Bursonaw
Senior Member
I converted mine myself. (Pertronix number 1285LS) The instructions were simple instructions and it was easy to do. http://www.pertronix.com/prod/new/details.aspx?ID=148
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
fortyonerag
Well-known member
What coil did you use?
flatheadmurre
Well-known member
Using the original coil with the ballast resistor will work.
Fitting the pickup unit can be done.
Then you need power to the module....drilling a hole and having a cable sticking out...not for a points restoration atleast.
More hazzle then what you get from it in my book.
Get your coil rewound and a good quality set of points...capacitors is a pain today...im running ugly looking grey plastic pieces intended for induction stoves...but a 1200v cap for $5 is my cheapskate aproach.
Fitting the pickup unit can be done.
Then you need power to the module....drilling a hole and having a cable sticking out...not for a points restoration atleast.
More hazzle then what you get from it in my book.
Get your coil rewound and a good quality set of points...capacitors is a pain today...im running ugly looking grey plastic pieces intended for induction stoves...but a 1200v cap for $5 is my cheapskate aproach.
Bursonaw
Senior Member
My apologies for putting out some incorrect information. The distributor I had was a 42 - 44 crab style. Looking at the distributor drawings, the conversion on a 37 - 41 may not be as strength forward.
My car had already been converted to 12V so I changed the coil out to a Pertronix coil that does not require a ballast resistor. If you use a ballast resistor you are correct about its placement. I did call Pertronix before I ordered my unit and they were very helpful.
Good luck with your project.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
BUBBAS IGNITION
Well-known member
You are missing the "point". (pun intended) 
The design of the helmet distributor is a very good design, two sets of contact points each doing a specific job. The drivers side point set controls the timing (intial timing) and the pass set controls the dwell ( coil build up). They overlap each other and the coil sees 36 degrees of dwell. The coil winding inductance allows a proper coil build up with 36 degrees of dwell and 6 volts. Properly tuned they will last a long time and run very well. When ran with a good condensor/capacitor hard to beat them on a flathead.
Adding a 12 volt system and electronics makes this a very much different discussion. Can be done but why ???
The design of the helmet distributor is a very good design, two sets of contact points each doing a specific job. The drivers side point set controls the timing (intial timing) and the pass set controls the dwell ( coil build up). They overlap each other and the coil sees 36 degrees of dwell. The coil winding inductance allows a proper coil build up with 36 degrees of dwell and 6 volts. Properly tuned they will last a long time and run very well. When ran with a good condensor/capacitor hard to beat them on a flathead.
Adding a 12 volt system and electronics makes this a very much different discussion. Can be done but why ???
You guys have convinced me to stick with points. I've started collecting parts to rebuild the one I have. It was in pretty good shape, but I took it apart just to clean some of the gunk out of it. I picked up a set of points locally. The rotor and caps I have look really nice. Is there any place I can get the set up specs, or has anyone done a rebuild guide?