‘37 -‘39 steering box wanna-be

ford38v8

ford38v8

Well-known member
‘37 -‘39 steering box wanna-be

A friend has a ‘38 steering box to install in his ‘36, but has only the ‘36 mounting bracket that must be drilled, or is it his frame to be drilled? Can anyone provide exact locations for the mounting holes? I know it can be done hit and miss, but that’s not going to pass muster for this job, his engine is in, and he’d rather put the ‘36 box back in than to remove the engine, if that’s required to do it right. I’ve never had the pleasure, so I’m way out in left field with anything I’d tell him. Thanks in advance!
 
Re: ‘37 -‘39 steering box wanna-be

When I did my box replacement I was able to get a Drake bracket and grind and drill out the rivets of the stock unit (doable but not fun) Bolted the new bracket in and it was all done without removing the fender or the motor. The attached link was helpful in the rest of the process. It's worth every bit of grief you have to go through.

https://www.goldengatev8.org/tips/SteeringGearSwap35-36/SteeringGearSwap.htm
 
Re: ‘37 -‘39 steering box wanna-be

You can swap the later box in without removing or modifying the frame bracket. The single hole in the later box is about 3/4" greater than for the 1935-1936 boxes.
These pictyures from https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2059159&postcount=10 show the details

Show the trimming details

473616


473615


Looks like this when trimmed with a new hole drilled.

473614
 
Re: ‘37 -‘39 steering box wanna-be

Excellent advice. I thank you all for your help. Now my friend will have an informed choice to make, as he has both his original ‘36 box and a ‘38 box, both rebuilt.
 
Re: ‘37 -‘39 steering box wanna-be

Good Alan. Please have him update us with progress and any issues he may have doing this swap.

Glenn
 
Re: ‘37 -‘39 steering box wanna-be

Steering slop=The pitman arm ball and drag link slop. The pitman arm ball becomes an oval. The drag link washers help very little. I bought a new pitman arm and a new drag link with washers for my '33 coupe, but to no avail; Ford made a lousy set-up for steering. I understand GM's Chevrolet was worse than Ford's.(why would auto makers design this junk.

Diagonal parking(right front tire touching the curb) became very popular in communities across the US because it was so difficult to park curbside bumper to bumper; i.e., I would park curbside bumper to bumper and pull-adjust my steering wheel while standing with the left foot on the street and the right foot on the Model A running board. My '33 was/is not improved in that scenario. 'harrumph!' (commenting disapprovingly to myself.) Thank You -
 
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Re: ‘37 -‘39 steering box wanna-be

ford38v8 said:
Excellent advice. I thank you all for your help. Now my friend will have an informed choice to make, as he has both his original ‘36 box and a ‘38 box, both rebuilt.
Click to expand...
Hey i have a 36 3 window i need a rebuilt box for and will buy which ever one you don’t use? PM me , thank you Chuck
 
Re: ‘37 -‘39 steering box wanna-be

I had a '36 3-window 30 years ago and installed a '37 steering. It was a great improvement. I think '37-'40 are the same. It's a much better design than the '36.
 
Re: ‘37 -‘39 steering box wanna-be

The 37 lines up correctly regarding the locking collar for the column drop on the shaft.38 and 39 is off by close to an inch. If you use the original light switch you must have the 37-39 bracket that the switch housing ball connects to.That bracket is getting harder to find.If you run headers the 37 and later box is a bit larger and will touch the header.
 
Re: ‘37 -‘39 steering box wanna-be

I have done a few of these swaps .A friend asked for advice I tried in van to persuade him not to change the chassis plate all that drilling and chiseling bolted it in the end ,
,you should have the1937 3950 drop arm as well if you change that plate this keeps the tie rod more parallel but i didn't .,The hole you drill; is 3/8 from the other top hole .Ted
 
Re: ‘37 -‘39 steering box wanna-be

A lot of roads were gravel in those days ,MiG Weld the ball grind to shape finish with a disk or you can buy the Model A ball and tig it on ,My 34 steers beautifully 17 to one ,adjusting the box is a art
highbeams said:
Steering slop=The pitman arm ball and drag link slop. The pitman arm ball becomes an oval. The drag link washers help very little. I bought a new pitman arm and a new drag link with washers for my '33 coupe, but to no avail; Ford made a lousy set-up for steering. I understand GM's Chevrolet was worse than Ford's.(why would auto makers design this junk.

Diagonal parking(right front tire touching the curb) became very popular in communities across the US because it was so difficult to park curbside bumper to bumper; i.e., I would park curbside bumper to bumper and pull-adjust my steering wheel while standing with the left foot on the street and the right foot on the Model A running board. My '33 was/is not improved in that scenario. 'harrumph!' (commenting disapprovingly to myself.) Thank You -
Click to expand...
 
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