36 to 37 steering

todd3131

todd3131

Well-known member
I am changing a 36 to 37 steering box, in the process I need to change out the mounting plate to a new one. There are four rivets holding it on I ground out the two bottom rivets and broke it loose and drilled out the top rivets got all the rivets and the bracket is stuck were they welded on in some way I can't figure out why it doesn't drop off?
Todd3131
 
Hi Todd3131, We just did this job last fall. The steering box mounting bracket is not welded, it is held in by the four rivets. Maybe time for some gentle heat? Make sure when you drilled or pounded out the rivets, there isn't any interference that's keeping the bracket on. Is the frame nice and straight in that area? I can imagine any deformities (dimples, bends) might be helping it stay in place.

-VT/Jeff
 
I have done this 36 to 37 steering change several times and on each occasion I came across a spot weld between the steering bracket and the frame. top side just to the right of center when looking down from the top.
 
Do you see any welds ? If you do grind the welds using a cutoff wheel where the bracket and the chassis meet. JMHO.
 
todd3131-

On several frames (more likely with '36s than '35s), a spot weld was added to the top flange of the steering plate when it was installed in the frame. Usually this weld is near the rear mounted rivet (near the driver). It can complicate the plate removal. There is no magic way to remove this weld other than trying chisels, some heat, sawing, grinding and even the use of a crowbar! It just requires a lot of tenacity and luck on your part. In one case I had to spend two days getting the frame plate off! Just remember, the plate will come off but it will take some effort.

Hope this helps.

Tom
 

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On every steering mounting plate that I have removed '35 thru '37 there has been a spot weld from the top of the plate to the underside of the top frame rail. This was probably done during assembly of the frame to hold that plate in place during the riveting operation. I usually clamp a pair of vise grip pliers to both sides of the plate after all four rivets are removed. Using the pliers for leverage twist the plate back and forth, in and out a number of time to break that weld loose. Jeff may not remember doing this on his '36 because I was the one who did this from down in the pit on his conversion :).
 
Wow you guys know your stuff. This is the first early ford I have worked on it is a 36 convert and I am also working on a 32 roadster both cars are close and hope to have the both road ready in the next three weeks. I will have another post about flathead teds adjustment cone replacement's
 
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