36 steering gear adjustment?

R

RickMcK

Member
I rebuilt my 36 steering gear (new bearings, worm, selector...). I tried to adjust it per the instructions in the green service manual, but I can't seem to get the play correct.

I set the end play, then adjust the eccentric nut with the wheels straight. The gear box is sloppy turning to the left and tight to the right. If I adjust the eccentric nut so it's OK to the right, it's realy sloppy to the left. The eccentric (screw driver) adjustment does not seem to help the "to the left sloppiness.

What am I doing wrong? Any thoughts or ideas?
 
Did you remove the Pitman arm or drag link. If not do so.
You probably have the attached. correctly setup, the tightest position is in the middle, straight down the road position.
 

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Yes, disconnecting the drag link is best. It allows you to see and feel the movement of your adjustments.
 
RickMcK said:
I rebuilt my 36 steering gear (new bearings, worm, selector...). I tried to adjust it per the instructions in the green service manual, but I can't seem to get the play correct.

I set the end play, then adjust the eccentric nut with the wheels straight. The gear box is sloppy turning to the left and tight to the right. If I adjust the eccentric nut so it's OK to the right, it's realy sloppy to the left. The eccentric (screw driver) adjustment does not seem to help the "to the left sloppiness.

What am I doing wrong? Any thoughts or ideas?
Click to expand...

You can only adjust it straight ahead. The slop on the right and left is in the design,
Center the box and adjust it snug, no bind that's all you can do.

Then center the box and adjust the drag link until the wheels are straight ahead. The box needs to be centered when you're going straight down the road and there will be very little play, Don' worry about the slack to the left and right their designed that way,

Bill
 
Swap it for a 37 and up box. HUGE improvement and essentially undetectable.
I did mine and it was night and day better.
 
Did you have to remove the exhaust manifolds to remove your '36 steering box and install the '37 box? I understand that one can either drill additional holes in the '36 mounting plate or just install a '37 mounting plate.
 
Steve-

You can't just redrill the '36 box (top hole) and simply add the '37 box. If you go this route you won't be able to get your exhaust manifold back on. The only way to do this is to replace the '36 frame plate with a '37 plate. This is not a 5 minute task. The '36 plate has a hidden rivet on the bottom side of the top frame rail which is a bear to get out.

Tom
 

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All the '35-'36 steering box mounting brackets that I've removed were riveted to frame in four places plus one spot weld at top of bracket to frame rail. This spot weld can be a bugger to get loose. I've had pretty good luck with twisting the bracket back and forth, side to side to break that spot weld.
 
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I have a36 pickup and want to keep the 36 box. I know the 37 and up box is better. I just want to make my 36 box work as good as possible, I can live with that. I'm sure some of the barners have kept there 36 box and have some tips and tricks to sort them out. Thanks Ron
 
One important factor on the early boxes is to follow the instructions to the letter in the EXACT order they say.
If you do things out of sequence it can change the outcome and how the box performs.
Each adjustment has an effect on the succeeding adjustment and if you go out of order it changes everything and you get the strange results you are seeing.
I found out the hard (long) way on several 32-34 boxes I did a while back.
Make sure you have a steering wheel installed too, as the weight (rotating mass)of the wheel makes the box "feel" different. Kinda like a flywheel on an engine.
You "think' you can go back to a previous adjustment and "touch it up a little".
NOPE... it will change the whole thing and you have to start over.
Also make sure any mating surfaces are clean and move freely against one another.
 
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