36 running rough

jacob smith

jacob smith

Senior Member
Ran my stock 36 for about 2 hours today. It ran great except for the last 20 minutes. The car stated to loss power and buck. It only did this under load. The tempter of the car was fine at 185. So i do not think it was vapor lock. The distributor was rebuilt last year and the coil was checked at that time and it was good but not replaced. It also seems after the car sits for a little while the car runs fine again. Any ideas of what to check.
 
I would check the spark---when first started see how far spark jumps, what color the spark, then when running rough check again---if only very small yellow spark most likely the coil
 
Drought it is vapor lock, but if it was, it is not directly related to engine operating temperature. Vapor lock occurs when the fuel tank or lines are hot enough to vaporize the fuel prior to reaching the fuel pump. Could also be an air leak in the fittings or lines. But more likely a coil or condenser issue.
 
jacob smith said:
Ran my stock 36 for about 2 hours today. It ran great except for the last 20 minutes. The car stated to loss power and buck. It only did this under load. The tempter of the car was fine at 185. So i do not think it was vapor lock. The distributor was rebuilt last year and the coil was checked at that time and it was good but not replaced. It also seems after the car sits for a little while the car runs fine again. Any ideas of what to check.
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I don't know who checked your coil but it don't sound like he knew
what he was doing. There are NO stock Ford coils that work when
good and hot. Sometimes a condenser will act like what you describe
but 98 percent of the time it will be the coil if it hasn't been rebuilt.
Send yours to get rebuilt. G.M.
 
do you have an original coil--mounted to the top of the distributor? id=f yes, then send the coil to Skip, I have had a lot of them done by him over the years and none have failed me yet. Who rebuilt your distributor? did they install a new rotor button? was the shaft under the rotor button insulated?
 
I've never regretted sending my coils to the skip crew. Best thing I've done so far. Skip also did my distributor for the 36. My 38 and a few friends distributors (crabs to 8ab conversions) I referred was done by bubba. Both delivered the goods.


Issue with coils and condensers is that they only act up with heat. You can bench test and never tell if they are good or not.



I run a napa IH200 condensers also. Bought a couple as sometimes they are not great even out of the box. Been decent so far, no complaints. There are other options also that are better.


Best of luck!
 
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alanwoodieman said:
do you have an original coil--mounted to the top of the distributor? id=f yes, then send the coil to Skip, I have had a lot of them done by him over the years and none have failed me yet. Who rebuilt your distributor? did they install a new rotor button? was the shaft under the rotor button insulated?
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Alan are you a computer programmer? your if/then = statement thinks so. :cool:
 
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