'36 rumble seat

As stated in several replies, the deck lid is not "reversable". You have to fill the trunk latch hole and drill a new one for the rumble latch. The inside of the lid has the mounting area to move the hinges. Rumble hinges are available from Mac's and others.Then you have to cut the rain gutter out and roll the bottom edge of the sheet metal under. This will leak!

Rather than cutting Henry's original sheet metal I do have an alternative. This is what I did on my 36 coupe.

Unfortunately my camera died but I do have some older pics from the prototype.
These attached pics give you and idea of how it works. Also pics of the "oversert" I used instead of the roof options for metal.

Seat frame in the up/down position. 2 small tabs in the front slide into "loops" that keep the seat from going forward but you can just pull it back 1 inch and lift it out. There are rubber bumpers on the seat back where it hits the lip of the trunk in the "up" position.



The roof oversert is 1/8 " thick laid up fiberglass matting made in a mold that was take off the roof itself. It gets glue with butyl caulk to the gasket that sits in the roof recess. I taped it into position and weighted it down with sandbags while the glue set. It can be sanded smooth and just use that painted edge as the "finished" edge or I like the look with the TrimLoc molding.
Trimloc comes in seven different colors including white and black, that will come close to most body paints.

There's a pic of the rumble lid laid out with the supports for the latch assembly and front tabs that hold the front edge under the lip of the trunk opening.


If you spent the $800 bucks the fiberglass guys want for a trunk lid it has the "inner" trunk and you don't have to use the supports.

I have not made the mold for the lid yet but. if you enough guys are interested, I'll do it. I think I can make the mold and lay up the deck lid skin for about $200 each. It's only about $40 if glass mat and resin but something like 4-6 hours of labor.

The cheapest way to go is to just use your existing lid and pull the pins that hold the 2 sections of the hinge together. It's "heavy" to lift off (2 man job) but just make the seat and your done. It's a much better idea that cutting the original sheet metal. Same goes for the roof if your thinking about a weld in panel.
 

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Tom, could you send me the procedure for the trunk lid to rumble lid conversion? I am extremely interested in the channel modification on the '36 5 W coupe.
Thanks
 
Tom, I would appreciate getting a copy of your instructions as well. I do have a RS in my '35 avatar car but I'm not sure that someone didn't convert it from a trunk many moons ago. I always hear these conflicting reports that say either you can or can not flip a '35-'36 trunk/rumble lid. I would like to resolve this in my own mind.

To the guys who are thinking about doing this conversion, I believe if Tom (flatheadfan) has personally done some of these conversations, I would suggest following his advice. I have never gone wrong following his advice on other good information he has sent me. JMO

Note: These cushions/springs have been sold
Also, for those thinking about making a trunk to RS conversion, I have a set of RS cushions/springs that I am selling. You could send me a pm or email by clicking my avatar and selecting the appropriate message sending function.
Note: These cushions/springs have been sold.
 
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Thanks!... I saw that one.... I believe it may have been in the last Hop-Up?
I actually bought a pair of 40 chevy headlights because of that thing!
changed plans now...but there they hang, money spent!...haha

If you do decide to convert your car to '40 Chevy headlights, it is easier than most people realize... Been there done that...
When I put the Chevy headlights on my '36 Ford in 1952 I did not "French" them in like most people did... I removed the stock headlights leaving the light stands on the fenders.. I then carefully scribed the Chevy pods onto the contour of the fender, modified, added the tabs to fit, painted the pods black to match the original black paint, added fender welt around the edges and bolted the pods in place...
In the early '60's I decided I wanted the car to look more stock so I unbolted the headlight pods and bolted the stock headlights in place.
The four small holes from the pod tabs are still in the fenders just in case I want to go back to the Chevy headlights...
I also have kept my '37 DeSoto bumpers just in case I really want to go back to the 50's look...
 

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Guys, the decklid only fits one way. The handle location needs to be cut out and moved , but the decklid is built to allow the latch to fit in both ends. The hinge holes are in place for both the trunk and rumble hinges. Dave

The deck lid on the '35-36 Fords is not rotated 180 degrees!
The majority of '35-36 deck lids I have seen are all drilled/punched for the rumble seat modification.. This was done at the factory because many of the rumble seats were a dealer installed item when the cars were new..
The major modification is the removal of the lower gutter rail, folding the metal over to reinforce the edge and the cutting of the lower 6 inches of the side rail gutter. The deck lid has to be drilled for the handle only.
I was going to install a rumble in my '36 coupe... I had everything from a '36 coupe for over thirty years... Each time I would start the project, I would pause before I started cutting.... It is very hard to cut into an unmolested body which has only been repainted once.
After several pauses over a thirty year period I finally sold the whole assembly to a fellow V8'r that had been bugging me for years... He gave me $1,800. for everything... including the tail light and fender steps..
 
I always hear these conflicting reports that say either you can or can not flip a '35-'36 trunk/rumble lid. I would like to resolve this in my own mind.

.

Its a situation created by those of us who have physically done the job with our hands, and those of us that have mentally done the job in our minds. The best way to confirm is by doing the conversion.
 
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