You'll soon tell if you have a later rear end. Just look at the relationship of the spring and shackle plates. A longer torque tube will force the rear end back by twisting the shackle plates so they dont hang square to the spring. The upshot of this is that the shackle bushes will wear out pretty quick.
did you pull the whole rearend with radius rods and torque tube attached...'36 radius rods are bolted to the rearend, etc....might be a later rearend??....Mike
Would it be possible to put the car up on a lift and take some pictures of the rear end mounting from various angles and post them here? From these pictures someone may be able to spot what's wrong. Are the fenders correct for that model number and year of manufacture?
from what i know, looks like your rear end is correct, with radius rods bolted to rearend....original tranmission?? i wonder if some difference between rear mounts could lead to the situation you have....good luck....Mike
You've got the correct rearend assy. Look at the spring/shackles and you can see the offset to the rear. It's not mated correctly at the front of the torque tube/drive shaft somehow.
If the spring fits into the cross member the wheels should be in the correct position . I vote for the wrong fenders. I dont know ,but i think there were diff fenders for some of the 36 ,sedan coupe conv. etc.
The wishbones and axle tubes look correct. #1 picture appears to have something that looks unusual above the spring hanger but maybe it's just an optical illusion for me when looking at a small picture on my iPhone. Also in #1 the shock link connector is slanted back and probably should be in more of a vertical position. In #3 picture the shackles appear to be shifted back. The thing that may be pushing the rear assembly back is a torque tube that's longer than it's supposed to be. Someone else also asked this question on another post.......did the wheels look off center in the wheel wells before you removed the rear to take the transmission out?
First check your wheelbase --112" center to center. That will tell you right away if something is amiss in the driveline. (If you measure 112" C to C than something else is wrong, fenders, body, ?) Next, measure from the center of the front A ball mount cap bolts to the center of the rear differential - 72". You should have around 1/2"to 1" of clearance between the back of the rear differential and the leading edge (front) of the rear frame crossmember.
Thanks Wamnram. good imformation. wheel base is 112 and I have 1/2 inch between rear cross member and differencial. Wheel were back to far before I rebuilt the transmission. I don't see how its possible to have the body on the frame this far off. Am I missing something