'36 Glove Box Lock Questions

Hey Jeff and Henry, A few pictures that I took today of my glove box handle w/lock and some lock cylinders that have that same tang. Lengthening that dash slot enough to make yours work would not be a major ordeal and the likelihood of anyone actually seeing that it has been lengthened would be highly unlikely, JMO.

PS...speaking of "football keys", I have added another picture....please forgive me :D the devil made me do it....Go Ravens!!!
 

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Thanks for that fabulous visual information John. I can see some of the tangs you have appear to be adjusted. I wonder if these are not glove box but trunk locks, or, if as suggested the tang and the nub might have been examples of a 'finishing adjustment' done by a skilled laborer who expertly tweaked hundreds of them daily?

I just noticed in the scan from the EFV8 book, the rubber nub in the top left is definitely not the same shape as the one at the other side of the box...

Looking at pix 7 and 10. If I take the clip off, take the tang off, and flip it around the long axis so basically the pin is now on the 'wrong' side of the lock. Could I get the clip back on, it seems it uses the place where the pin is, for the open part of the "C"? Then mount the lock upside down. Could this work? One issue is that in the 'locked' position, from the outside, the key slot would be in a weird position.

Still thinking...
 
I seem to recall that MAC'S listed both thick & thin glove box door bumpers. I can't seem to find my MAC'S catalog to verify that, but if my memory is correct, perhaps your problem is as simple as changing the thick bumpers to the thinner ones.
 
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I thought I would bring this thread back to the top to see if I can add to the information. First, the lock has to be completely disassembled to modify or reverse the tang. Looking at a '36 GB lock I have I think the flat tang could be reversed to operate the other direction. As some of the other guys have said, the only other option you have is to widen the slot so that the tang will clear the edge of the opening. I have included a picture of the lock disassembled. The only thing missing is the tang. For the life of me I don't know where I put it.

Order of assembly is: The spring washer slides on the plug, then the tang slides on the plug, then the plug is inserted into the lock barrel and the keeper is inserted into the slot in the lock barrel. When the keeper is inserted it slides down into the slot in the plug where the other arrow is pointing, so the two slots have to line up . The bottom pins are then inserted into the pin chambers, then the top pins, then the springs, and lastly the chamber plugs or caps (not shown) If you will notice the bottom ends of the bottom pins are rounded, this is what rides against the key and being rounded allows the key to slide in and out of the lock much easier. The spring clip holds the lock cylinder in the glove box handle.


LockDoc

 

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jeff,i dont think you can just flip the tang over the stop pin would be on the wrong side and place. File out the slot to fit the lock and be done with it. OMO. ken ct.
 
Hi Leon, Thanks for jumping in with this great information! You're very helpful.

No problem Jeff. Thanks.

-VT/Jeff

jeff,i dont think you can just flip the tang over the stop pin would be on the wrong side and place. File out the slot to fit the lock and be done with it. OMO. ken ct.

Ken,

I think the stop pin being on the wrong side is what would allow the tang to rotate in the opposite direction. If I can find the tang for my disassembled lock I will try it just to see if my thinking is flawed or not. Don't get me wrong, I agree with you that the easiest fix would be to lengthen the slot and drive it...

LockDoc
 
I would put the shallower rubber bumpers in there and see how close it is for locking and then file out the slot.. Hes making a mtn. out of a mole hill. Be done with it Jeff. LOL ken ct.
 
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