Looking for some expertise on converting to juice brakes. I would like to stay with the wide 5 wheels and understand you need 37 - 39 front hubs due to the drum centerline being offset to the inboard side on the 36 hubs. The question I have can you remove the 36 drum and use them on the 37 - 39 hubs? if they are both 2 piece.
36 ford pickup front drums
- Thread starter klw6574
- Start date
Thanks Brian, I'm relatively new to this era of vehicle so please bear with me. These are 2 piece and I understand that the hub has an offset but how does the drum have an offset? the face looks pretty flat. I've seen pictures of both year assemblies but never the drums by themselves. Also, from what I've read the existing rear drums should work with the newer backing plates, correct? I seem to have a habit of buying oddball or 1 year only things or maybe it's just years of buying Fords, Ha-ha
38 coupe
Well-known member
The hub needs to match the spindle. If you have 36 spindles you need 36 drums. The 36 spindle is longer than the 37 and later spindles. I think you can modify hydraulic backing plates to fit on 36 spindles (may take some welding).
Question: have you driven a car with good mechanical brakes? You may be surprised at how well they work. I have a friend with a 36 sedan with rod brakes and am comfortable running highway speed in that car.
Question: have you driven a car with good mechanical brakes? You may be surprised at how well they work. I have a friend with a 36 sedan with rod brakes and am comfortable running highway speed in that car.
Brian
Well-known member
klw6574, it MAY be possible to do as you plan,,,bear in mind the studs are swaged into place and secure the two components together. You would need to give it a go, you'll need to check concentricity afterwards. Doubt anyone has done this, please report back and tell us how it went. Good luck!
V8COOPMAN
Well-known member
This picture should give you a clue as to how the drum is offset. 1936 is on the left side.
Coop
rich b
Well-known member
Actually the snout on '36 spindles is exactly the same as '37 up spindles.
'35 spindles are longer (same length as '28-'34 spindles; but with a shoulder for the seal) and use the tall retainer nut.
The smaller backing register and bolt pattern is the same as '28-'34 spindles; but only a centering ring and your preferred method of bolt pattern rework is needed to put juice brake backing plates.
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rich b
Well-known member
You can elongate (notch) or weld the backing plate holes shut and drill new 3/8" holes; but it ends pretty much the same.
I usually drill the spindles out and use 7/16" bolts and notch the plates to match.
Some people weld extra metal on the spindle and drill them to 1/2" to match the larger bolts on the backing plates.
Lots of different stuff has been done since '39 when someone first decided he wanted juice brakes on an older Ford.
The centering rings in the last couple current "juice brake adapter kits" I've had seem to be a little oversize and when put in a backing plate the hole becomes too tight to accept the register of the spindle. A little work with a 3" sanding drum takes care of it; but you need to be careful as the piston rings used are pretty brittle cast iron.
First picture is a welded and drilled backing plate; while the other is a "notched" plate.
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