36 coupe body bolts remove help

L

lodown2003

Member
Hit a few snags with taking out the bolts. Gave up with wd 40 and a socket. Step 2 will be with a grinder wheel, if that does not do the trick, last resort cutting torch. The floor pan is in in pretty good shape and is worth saving. So i would rather not torch them off. Anyone out there ever have have this problem. Thanks, ken
 
I'm in the process of cutting off the body bolts along the perimiterof the pan. I'm using a pnuematic die grinder with 4"x1/16" cut off wheels. Not a fun job, but somewhat easier as I have the luxury of a lift. I wouldn't use a torch in fear of warping the floor.
 
A little information,as you remove the bolts make a drawing of the frame and the bolts removed and location .size and ect. you will thank yourself later.voice of experience.
 
One way I have found to take out stubborn bolts is to drill into the
side of the nut into the bolt and then with a socket and ratchet
tighten the nut until it breaks off. --- Ken
 
If you don't have an impact driver... buy one! Matco sells both 3/8 and 1/2" drivers with an assorment of screw drive bits.

Any rustbucket comes apart much easier with one of these.
 
If you own a torch put a small welding tip on it . Dont use the cutting head. Keep the flame on the nut untill it is red. Cut off the torch and have spray bottle with water in it ready. Spray the nut and bolt with the water untill it is cold. This will remove the rust and you will be able to remove the nut with light wrench pressure or your fingers.
 
Hi, reading Don´s advice about drawing the bolts locations and sizes, since I´d buyed my 39 coupe with the body already off, and can´t find the info on the web, could anybody please post some drawing, pic, note, or something that help me in that way? Thanks in advance, and yes, I know, I´m trying of get a green bible,even with the mechanical work almost done. Thanks, Ricardo.
 
TagMan said:
I'm in the process of cutting off the body bolts along the perimiterof the pan. I'm using a pnuematic die grinder with 4"x1/16" cut off wheels. Not a fun job, but somewhat easier as I have the luxury of a lift. I wouldn't use a torch in fear of warping the floor.
Click to expand...

Using a torch with the welding tip on it and getting the nuts red hot is NOT going to warp the floor.
 
Richard, i did order a body to frame kit from Roy Nacewicz,very nice set with all sizes and there location ,i dont think a guy could ever find the correct bolts and washers any where locally .not knowing what he was looking for.working on a 36 5w
 
Lodown2003;
Wescotts has the drawings of the old frames with a lot of detail that could help you. They are located in Boring, Or., just down the road from you. I think you can also find the catalog online at www.Wescottsauto.com
 
Try a 50 - 50 mixture of ATF and acetone to loosen rusty nuts and bolts. I have had great success with this combo. Sometimes a 24 hour soaking is all it takes.
 
Weld a piece of rod, or a big nail to the head, and then use an impact wrench.

Works good
Lasts long time
 
jerry grayson said:
Using a torch with the welding tip on it and getting the nuts red hot is NOT going to warp the floor.
Click to expand...


Maybe not, but I'll save the torch work for cutting off mufflers and stick with a cutoff wheel & die grinder for cutting the bolts, just to be sure. ;)
 
quickchange34 said:
If you own a torch put a small welding tip on it . Dont use the cutting head. Keep the flame on the nut untill it is red. Cut off the torch and have spray bottle with water in it ready. Spray the nut and bolt with the water untill it is cold. This will remove the rust and you will be able to remove the nut with light wrench pressure or your fingers.
Click to expand...
that works for me
 
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