'36 Brake pedal free play

[J Witt]

My brake pedal had more free play (1 1/2") than I liked. The pull rod running from the pedal arm has a slotted, adjustable end fitting that is mated to the fork on the cross shaft with a standard clevis pin. I removed the pin and adjusted some of the slack motion out so the brake pedal has about 3/4" free play.

While doing this I noticed that the lever on the cross shaft has a second hole that is closer by about 1/2" to the cross shaft. Using this hole for the slack fitting makes the brake pedal move less and consequently will require more effort on the pedal and less motion to actuate the brakes. I put the system back like I found it, but I wonder if anyone has run their car with the higher effort setting, and which one is the correct hole?

I can't find a reference to this in any of my stuff or on the forum.

Thanks,

John

 

[G.M.]

You need to look up the ENTIRE procedure to adjust the 36 or whatever year you
are working on. I just did a 36 phaeton a few weeks ago there is a few inches of
free play and it takes minimal effert to lock ALL four wheels at 25 MPH. All wheels
lock and leave equal skid marks, not pulling in either direction. Hand brake also
locks and slides wheels at 10 mph. All rods must be straight, no wear in in clevis
pins and arms and cross arm in correct position. The work as good as hydraulics
except they are operated by foot power. G.M.

 

[J Witt]

Thanks for the reply, but that is not my question, GM. Specifically, which hole in the cross shaft arm is the correct factory hole?

Perhaps I put in too much detail concerning what I had done. The overall brake operation on the car is completely satisfactory.

Thanks,

John

 

[Bob C]

Your answers are in the December 1936 Service Bulletin or page 426 of the
1932-37 Service Bulletins.

Bob