36 3 window steering

kiwitony

kiwitony

Senior Member
Hi Guys, I went yesterday to help a mate who has been restoring a 36 3 window coupe for the last 12 years or so. Its a stunning car and a six figure dollar build. He is at the stage of doing a few short shake down drives around the block. Engine is sweet ,brakes very good,no rattles or clunks. The issue is the steering, its atrocious . Everything has been rebuilt at great cost but the steering is heavy and dead. I know that a 37 steering box is a big improvement, and I tried to talk him into one, but he wanted to keep it original. I can't believe that 36s were that bad. He is taking it for a wheel alignment this week so hopefully things will improve. how much of a mission is it to fit a 37 box with engine etc in place? Also I have a 36 box with the needle rollers in it , are they better ? I feel for the guy, after all this time and money, it ain't nice to drive. Looking forward to your thoughts. Cheers Tony.
 
If he restored the original steering box, the sector gear would have roller bearings in the sector housing. My experience with my '36 is that the steering is not atrocious, especially since I'm used to '32-'35 steering efforts, but I will admit that that of my '37 is a noticeable improvement.
 
36 was the last year to have a gear that meshes with the worm. 37 and up sectors have a disk instead and many have taken the bracket out of a junk 37 frame and used it to bolt a 37 box into an earlier frame. I haven't done it myself but don't think it would be a big deal. What kind and size tires are on the front of this car?
 
Some new style tie rod ends are very stiff and could cause a problem. The king pins may be tight. Are the king pin bearings on the top of the king pins like a 32-34? If the top of the spindle is worn, it could let the spindle drop and drag on the axle.
I have a 37-48 steering box I would like to sell. They sure work better.
 
I've read here several times that you can move one bolt hole in a 37 box to allow it to bolt up to a 36 bracket, so you don't have to change the bracket in the frame. I plan to find out later this year - my 36 PU steers like a real pig.
 
Front tires are 650/16 coker whitewall radials.The steering dosn't self centre, is this the norm? With the front jacked up you cannot move the steering side to side by pushing on the wheels, is this the norm? When jacked up turning the steering wheel feels nice and smooth. Thanks for the replies.
 
Yoyodyne said:
I've read here several times that you can move one bolt hole in a 37 box to allow it to bolt up to a 36 bracket, so you don't have to change the bracket in the frame. I plan to find out later this year - my 36 PU steers like a real pig.
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That is correct.
 
Neither of those two symptoms that you mention are the norm; something is amiss. The first thing that I would check would be the fit/adjustment between the worm gear and the sector gear; it sounds like it is too tight and binding.
 
My experience ,I have just done the 37 conversion into a RH 35 ,The change over of the chassis bracket is not necessary on a RH hand drive job,it a easy change over by drilling the top hole 1/2 lower not sure about USA cars because the kick out on the Manifold ,Ted
 
I put a '37 steering gear into my LH drive '36 3-window with an 8BA and Fenton headers about 25 years ago. About the only thing I can remember specifically about it is that I did not have to remove the engine. The fact that I don't remember anything else about it leads me to believe it was a pretty straightforward process.
 
Tony have him check clearance from head of starter through bolt to the back side of pitman arm on steering box. If mounts both front & ****** get soft & engine settles this gets close & can rub making steering very hard.(ask me how I know).
even with new mounts it is close on my 36.
Cheers
Tony
 
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