351c miss/backfire under load?

"And we buy foods, food additives and pharmaceuticals from them?"

Not to mention cell phones and other electronics into which they insert spyware. Also aircraft parts.
 
Personally, I feel more comfortable with and prefer just using points and a condenser. Good quality points and condenser that is.


Sal
 
So what 's the verdict guys? Any improvement in the drivability? Did any of the suggestions help? I noticed several sources on e-b advertising the distributers mentioned in original post.
 
See if you can beg, borrow or steal an original Ford point distributor, with an original set of points and condenser and give it a try. I have attempted to use the same distributor you have and fought it right to the trash can. I'm surprised you had a total of 38 degrees of advance. Most of these things have springs so stiff that you'd have to turn 10 grand to get any advance. Are you sure you are not getting this advance with the vacuum only? Set your base timing between 10 and 12 degrees, disconnect the vacuum line to the dist., and see what you get for a total and how fast you get it.
You mentioned you had a little over 13 volts to the coil, running. It should be fine, but most 12 volt systems are producing a little over 14 volts when running. You cannot run a ballast resistor with this distributor unless it clearly states otherwise in the instructions. I don't think you have a jetting problem, but I agree with Bill, you don't need a 750 cfm carb. Ford made the original 4V Cleveland run very well with a 600 cfm
 
I had a problem with the 351C in my Ranchero. It started and ran for two 20 minute cam break-in runs and didn't hit a lick for over two weeks thrashing around on it. Finally got down to the ignition after thorough mechanical checks. New rotor, new cap and a new coil, no joy. Had a brand new rebuilt distributor so I figured the points were good. Well you know about "assume", put in a good set of USA made points and it hasn't missed a lick since. I do not trust the Chicom crap one second!
 
cousinjd said:
So what 's the verdict guys?
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The OP never got back. I may have p!ssed him off about a CHI-COM quality part.

I have been researching aftermarket electronic ignition regarding a topic in another forum and I couldn't believe (that's a lie) some of the crap that is actually going on.

And they keep buying it.
 
Not trying to pick an argument, but the OP very well could have been been acknowledging the distributor as being low quality by saying "China quality product" instead of "quality China product". Sometimes it is what we read into a printed statement.
 
Sorry for the delay. Been too cold to mess with the car.tbe distributor is a cheep $50.00 self contained with the module in the distributor.i have checked and re checked float level, timing, vacuum leaks, fuel pressure, mechanical advance, sparkplugs.each ofthe corner sparkplugs, number 1,4,5,8, were covered by black soot The rest were tan like they should be. In. The intake manifold, number 1,4,5,8 are on the top level of the runner, and the rest are on the lower level. The manifold has no. Brand or part numbers on it. It is very poor casting quality and the runners are all different sizes. I know it's a y shot, but I think the problem is the intake. So I found a Edelbrock 2v, 180* intake. The one on it now is a 360*. Thanks for the help. Not much fun driving it and can't even burn the tires
 
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The manifold has no. Brand or part numbers on it. It is very poor casting quality and the runners are all different sizes.
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You must do a lot of bargain basement shopping ... :D

Is your CLV 2V or 4V cyl heads? You need to find at the least a used dist that you can convert to electronic.
 
I would get out there and look for a DuraSpark distributor and module. The unit in my street rod has been there since 1980 and never missed a lick. The stuff in the back has run out of it and it is still ticking along. (I do have a spare in the car)
 
I have used this distributor before and it worked fine. If I had another distributor I would try it.i do believe it is ignition.buying all new duraspark components runs into a few bucks to. I have had good luck with those also. I will keo you posted
 
Just wanted to give an update. I replaced the sparkplugs with autolite 26 , which is 2 heat ranges hotter than the 24 that were in it. Ran much better, but it is still cutting out at higher load and higher rpm.tomorrow I will put the timing lite on it and check out the total advance
 
E85 to the rescue!!! after a new 180* edelbrock manifold, bigger (92) jets in the primary and secondary , new autolite 26 plugs, various timing adjustments, I put in a half tank of good old E85 to the 5 gallons already in the tank. It runs like a cleveland should now!. damn co-op gas anyhow. I am leaving the 92 jets in and running half unleaded gas and half E85. Thanks for all the help.:):):):):):):D
 
39deluxecp said:
E85 to the rescue!!! after a new 180* edelbrock manifold, bigger (92) jets in the primary and secondary , new autolite 26 plugs, various timing adjustments, I put in a half tank of good old E85 to the 5 gallons already in the tank. It runs like a cleveland should now!. damn co-op gas anyhow. I am leaving the 92 jets in and running half unleaded gas and half E85. Thanks for all the help.:):):):):):):D
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I run non-ethanol in everything I own that has a carburetor on it..........
 
39deluxecp said:
E85 to the rescue!!! after a new 180* edelbrock manifold, bigger (92) jets in the primary and secondary , new autolite 26 plugs, various timing adjustments, I put in a half tank of good old E85 to the 5 gallons already in the tank. It runs like a cleveland should now!. damn co-op gas anyhow. I am leaving the 92 jets in and running half unleaded gas and half E85. Thanks for all the help.:):):):):):):D
Click to expand...

Good old E85? I don't think I've heard that before.

Isn't all automotive gasoline unleaded now?
 
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