'35 Tudor leaning

AnthonyG

AnthonyG

Well-known member
Hey Guys, my '35 Tudor 2dr is leaning towards the driver side approx 2 to 2.5 inches. More in the rear than the front? recently installed a rebuilt performance Flatty. Was OK after installation but subsequently over a 6 month period has sagged on the driver's side? Car was restored, more cosmetically than mechanically approx 25 years ago and sat for 23 years in a garage and was in remarkably good shape. All prior to my purchase of the vehicle in July '13. I have visually checked the obvious, front and rear springs for cracks or breakage and all looks OK ( only visual no disassembly yet ), hoping to get input first.
appears to have the original shocks and springs, shocks look extra clean and could have been replaced.
Any Ideas?
 
I know the correct reply is get a heavier girl friend but!!!!

First before you go purchase any parts or do anything special check to see if the shackle bushings are tight and have not deteriorated. Then loosen the U bolts up both on the front and the rear of the vehicle and resettle the car level. In may cases the bachelor lean has been created because the u bolts have been left loose or tightened incorrectly and the chassis has rotated on the spring pack. When tightening the U bolts up do not drawn one side down tight and then the other, tighten the U bolts down in a criss-cross pattern one or two revolutions at a time until all bolts are equally tight. This should level the car on the spring pack and remove the tilt.
 
How much do you weight? These cars will lean with a 250 lb or more person. Stand on the right running board and see when you get off it levels up. G.M.
 
My weight is 175lb, sure thats not it as it leans with no one in it. I guess it could have settled out and looked more even when I got it as it had been sitting 23 years with no motor. Now the motors in and I've driven it a few times. Think probably is what you guys are calling a bachelors lean. Will try the method of loosening the u-bolts on the springs see if I can rock it a little back to level then re-torque in sequence as suggested per Dick. Will report when done and let you know if it worked.
Thx
 
It won't be the shocks unless maybe if one has seized and is holding that side up (or down). It could, as said, be the way the springs have been done up.

There shouldn't really be more lean at one end than the other, that would mean the car is twisted. If that is really the case, you do have a problem!

Mart.
 
Also a possibility that the head on one of the spring "center bolts" has sheared and the spring has moved sideways (off center) in the crossmember channel. DD
 
AnthonyG-

You probably already checked for this, if you haven't do it now! You may find yourself with a quick and simple fix. The spring leaves are held together by a bolt that has a square head. This square head must fit precisely into the square hole in the crossmember (it is a tight fit). Too often the spring is installed without the square head nesting correctly which creates a skewed alignment of the spring which in turn can give the car a canter.

Tom
 
Had a 32 coupe/olds engine back in the 60's and it leaned a bit. When I stopped and got out just pushed upper body towards passenger side. Was a 16 yr old kid, who knew?
Paul in CT
 
is it possible that the leaves rusted together and only broke free on the drivers side keeping the right up.I've seen it on trucks that sat for a long time
 
Believe it or not, my 35 Tudor Deluxe also has a lean from side to side. The driver's side sits about 2" lower. After getting this car running, I have had so much fun driving it, that I just haven't taken the time to figure out the suspension yet, so I will be trying what Dick said as well. Although I did check the spring bolts that Tom mentioned, lately when I get out of the car, I just push upward on the door opening, and level it out a little! I think there may be some merit to getting a bigger girl friend too!!

Bob
 
Back in the old days,you could tell a salesman's car right away because they always leaned on the driver's side,caused by the driver's weight and nothing on the passenger side.Goss on Ross,tradin' hoss, on Ross(Avenue) in Dallas taught me that long ago.
 
After all the easy fixes, the dirty job commences:
You'll need to remove the spring and dismantle it, clean it, grind the burrs smooth to allow free movement between leaves, and reassemble it, properly lubricated with fifth wheel grease. New shackles required, not negotiable.
 
ford38v8 said:
After all the easy fixes, the dirty job commences:
You'll need to remove the spring and dismantle it, clean it, grind the burrs smooth to allow free movement between leaves, and reassemble it, properly lubricated with fifth wheel grease. New shackles required, not negotiable.
Click to expand...

i think i will just let my 34 coupe lean cant tell any thing wrong when i drive down the road life is too short to worry about small things
 
ora masters said:
i think i will just let my 34 coupe lean cant tell any thing wrong when i drive down the road life is too short to worry about small things
Click to expand...

Why do you bother posting that you are lazy and don't care enough about your Ford to make it right? Small things? That's your lack of pride in your Ford.
 
My 35 was leaning and finally I found an egg sized chunk of the front frame cross member was broken out right under the drivers side front spring U bolt allowing the car to lean to that side. Ancient grease and the U bolt hid the damage until disassembled.
 
Thx to all, enjoyed the reading it was great, informative and humorous. I did loosen the hardware securing the spring to the frame, rear and shocks in suspended state on jack stands. Did my best to clean and level. Springs looked pretty clean and rust free for the most part but hit them with WD40 after cleaning a little more. Re-tightened all hardware in the suspended state then let the car down. Car is pretty dam level now. Hopefully it stays that way.
 
ford38v8 said:
After all the easy fixes, the dirty job commences:
You'll need to remove the spring and dismantle it, clean it, grind the burrs smooth to allow free movement between leaves, and reassemble it, properly lubricated with fifth wheel grease. New shackles required, not negotiable.
Click to expand...

Alan, why are new shackles required? Just wondering as I am replacing rear axle seals so I will be going through the spring before re-assembly. Did you mean the bushings?
Thanks, Roger
 
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