35 trans pops out of second

My '35 also was popping out, switched to a '39 ****** on recommendations in threads from older posts, very happy I did. Purchased for $750 rebuilt from a gentleman in Iowa, very happy with it. Same person rebuilt my '35 ****** just so I would have a good original, also very reasonable rebuild cost on it. Cliff Tipton <tipper52501@yahoo.com>;
Good guy.
Good luck.
 
I'm concerned that I may have unintentionally lead some here to think that the addition
of the 2nd detent to the early shift tower is anything more than a 'fix'. Doing this
will buy some time, quite often a lot of time. The second detent and spring when done
as the now departed Ford mechanic instructed does not require any significant extra
shifting effort, I can assure everyone of that. The key to doing this temporary fix
is to counterbore the slotted plug as deep as possible ( from the back side ) to utilize
the longest spring possible. The extra detent plunger must also be shortened...but not too short.
I was able to watch this being done way back and that helps a person
to grasp the whole process.
Charlie ny
 
The biggest problem I see is the rear bearing is wearing and letting the shaft move back and forth.
Also wear 2nd rubs on shaft wears.
All wear adds up.
With 2nd gear the angle of teeth when letting off pulls 2nd out of sleeve.
2nd is held by very small teeth.
 
I have found by working on these transmissions even thought you have the correct grear to washer clearence something that is always over looked is the rear bearing at the back of the case. That bearing has a grove on it and a ring to keep it from moving forward in the case. The only thing that keeps it from moving rearward is the trans mount. There is a gasket that goes between the case and the mount. I have found as much as 30 thouands clerance beween the case and the trans mount where the rear bearing lives. This will allow the rear bearing to move rearward taking the mainshaft with it out of the front drive gear when you shift or hold it in second gear.
This can be checked by using soft solder between the bearing and the rear mount. Measure solder and install brass shim to hold rear bearing tight in case. The main shaft wants to move rearward when you shift to second.
 
Adding to the above post by qc34, modern bearings [as fitted front and rear] have narrower snaprings than the OEM bearings, which, unless accounted for by fitting shims to compensate, will allow both input shaft and main shaft to move laterally in use; this compounds the problem of end float @ 2nd gear and the subsequent jumping outta gear.
 
Yep.....the OEM snap rings (front and rear) were about .075/076" thick. They will wear in their inside diameter. This is where they sit in the bearing groove. The typical new snap rings are NOT the correct thickness.....I've mic'd them at about .064". That would mean .011" at each bearing. Take that times two and you've got .022" end play. That's not good, plus factor in other worn parts and you've got popping out of gear.

We had to go to one of the USA snap ring mfrs and have a special run made of the two rings at .075" thick. Makes a big difference in the overall end play.
 
It is the seemingly insignificant details that can bite you. I'm a VanPelt snap ring user
for sure. That .022 can mess up syncro engagement too.
Charlie ny
 
Wouldn't the grove in the bearings be too small or are they wider than the replacement snap ring? Or am I missing something. My 37 with all new bearings, new 2nd gear thrust washer, etc. also pops out of 2nd gear backing down, you can feel the movement through the shifter power to no power. Zeke
 

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The groove in the bearings is standardized at .080/081" and in the same location on all the bearings. This leaves approx .005" of clearance to fit the snap ring in the groove. So, if you use snap rings of .064" thick, you'd have extra clearance. What happens is that the bearing (and thus the input & output shafts) can move in or out under load by that extra sloppy clearance.
 
Have a 50 bonus that's got that problem it has excessive end float in the second gear and has worn the thrust washer to the extent where the shoulder on the main shaft has mushroomed. I will replace or build up the main shaft to hopefully fix the issue.
 
I was looking at a 53 pu trans and this maybe true.
If you were to lineup the center of the bolt holes top cover on trans.
the line would be inline with the front of the 2nd gear teeth.
If you put cover on and put in 2nd gear pull off easy should be 1/16 to 1/8 from 2nd gear teeth. Quick check.
 
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