35 Steering column/lighting

L

LQQKER

Member
Finally got the 35 five window project together and driving. 59ab ,12 volt neg ground, not using any of the stock gauges. All gauges, Oil pressure, amps H20 Temp and fuel gauge work . Still using the floor starter button. Car starts and runs fine. No dome light in car. No turn signals(yet) no parking/fog lights.
The problem..no headlights, tail lights or brake lights. Converted to hydraulics with a light pressure switch. The horns have been removed with loose, taped wires.
6 black wires coming,looks to be rewired, from steering column base. Disassembled the steering box connector and cleaned all the contacts. Properly reassembled.
Light switch on steering wheel is the 12 oclock position with 1 detent cw and 2 detents ccw. Is this correct ?
What are the functions of the 6 black wires(hi/lo beam,horn, parking lights..??) and are any voltage inputs ?
There is a 4 fuse panel on drivers side with 1 fuse nearest the front of the car not used. ALL fuses have been checked replaced.

Not afraid to purchase a wiring harness but I would like to get the lights functioning before doing so.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks
 
Originally, only one wire emanating from the switch housing at the base of the steering column was black (for the tail lamps). They others were various colors coded to distinguish them from one another for all of the other lighting functions and the operation of the horn(s).
 
One fuse under the dash. The fuse protected the lighting only. Mac VanPelt has wiring diagrams on his web site.
 
See if this helps, but the wiring has obviously been messed with (a lot). So you are most likely starting from scratch. You could figure the current wiring out at the light switch if you wanted to put the effort into it. I can help you sort the wiring out if you want to give it a try.
 

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Thanks. I now have a starting point and some direction. Its all butchered but repairable. Keep the info coming.
 
Did you take a look at the wire diagram?
 

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Your '35 5-window sounds very much like my '36 5-window, 12 volt, single wire alternator, lighting and turn signal problems.

Depending on how you decide to power your headlights, don't bother with a wiring harness, even thought I have a brand new one for sale.

The previous owner had installed a big headlight relay. It is the size of a regulator. I would up completely rewiring my '36 one wire at a time. I installed the LED headlights with the built in turn signals. The previous owner had also installed turn signals but they were a completely separate system, mounted in their own separate lights. I did find a wiring diagram on line and noticed that the orange wire, that was not hooked up, was supposed to go to the brake light switch. Battery power to the other side. So I did hook it up that way, and, great the stop lights also work as turn signals.


I also installed a separate fuse block, rather than using the single original fuse. I now have a fuse for the electric wipers, turn signals, radio (which I am still working on), etc. I took the horns apart and just soldered new wires in them. Oh, as you said, each has two wires. As they were 6 volt, I wired them in series, black to the original power wire, white to white, then black back to the horn button, when you push the button, it grounds the system and the horns honk. If you want more details, let me know.


Steve
 
Jseery #6. I found that diagram referenced in a previous post regarding 36 horn not working. This should help as the wiring definitely needs to be cleaned up.

Is the CW detent for parking, First detent CCW low beams and 2nd detent high beams ?

Please advise. Electrical is not my forte !!
 
Yep, parking lights is one way and headlights is the other. The connections on the light switch are in three groups of three. One group has all three connector joined and has power in and the brake lights connected to the set. This grouping is always hot. A second group of three is also joined and has connections to the tail lights and instrument lights. This group receives power in both the park and the two headlight positions. The last group of three connections are each separate, one for park, one for low beams and one for high beams.
 
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I got the lights working. I might have to switch some hi/ lo beam connections. The 1st ccw detent on the light switch is hi and the 2nd detent ccw is low...is this correct ? I properly marked the 6 leads.

Problem was, I duplicated the PO mistake when assembling the switch at the base of the steering box. The little actuator plate between the spring and c- clip was out of postion along with the 3 dimpled contact plate. A few attempts and I got the orientation correct.
Wish I had a lift !!

Thanks for the help
 
When I turn the steering wheel on my ‘34 Ford, it turns the lights on and off. In the past when this happened, a small squirt of WD40 in the crack between the headlight switch and the wheel solved it. Now it doesn’t work. Any suggestions before I take it all apart?
JohnI
 
Willit stop.....great name by the way. Thats how i thought the detent positions would work. An easy fix.. thanks.
 
You're welcome LQQKER.As far as the screen name goes.....I installed brake floaters and the car stops pretty good now. I think I'll change my name to Otto Stop.
 
Next on my plate is a 36 three window with stock brakes. Was thinking about switching to hydraulics but now considering the floaters. Who supplies the floaters Ted something or other ???? Any info is appreciated
 
Sacramento Vintage,C&G etc. Flathead Ted is a member here.They are easy to install, well worth the effort and very affordable. I think it would be best if you started a new thread on the subject though,as this thread is pertaining to your column/lighting. Gene
 
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