35 Instrument Lighting

[Scott754]

I have a '35 Fordor Touring Sedan and I have no lighting of the dash, instrument panel or gauges. I saw a thread that talked about how to clean the switch, but I haven't found any switch or light bulb(s), so I don't know if all '35 Fordor sedans had instrument lights? In some of the catalogs I've seen Instrument panel light switches for '33-38 passenger cars. Does anyone know if all Fordor 35's had lighting, and if so where the switch, bulb sockets would be? Thanks

 

[JSeery]

It's at the bottom of the steering column. Then there should be a second switch located along the bottom edge of the dash.

 

[deuce lover]

In 35 Ford put the dash light on the dash.Its to the upper left of the center waterfall trim.The original switches are tough to find.Maybe someone replaced yours.On the speedo housing are 2 tabs that the 2 light sockets slip over.All body styles had them.

 

[JSeery]

In 35 Ford put the dash light on the dash.Its to the upper left of the center waterfall trim.All body styles had them.

Thanks for the correction!

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

I'm thinking all US and Canadan made '35 Fords had dash gauge/instrument lights. The lighting at the dash on '35 is controlled by a push/pull switch in the upper left center area of dash. That light switch, the cigar lighter knob and the choke and throttle knobs would all be a similar round configuration, of the same color, and possitioned around the center of the dash that might have a radio head, an ash tray, or a delete plate. Althought standard and deluxe models would have different color knobs. Pulling the light switch knob out = gauge lights on, and pushing it in = lights off for '35 models, the '36 gauge light switch worked just the opposite. For those instrument lights to work your headlights or dim running light switch, in center of steering wheel, must be on. There are bulbs for your instrument/gauge lights positioned under the dash around or near the speedometer head.

 

[Scott754]

Thanks to all for the helpful comments; I went back and found the push/pull switch to the upper left of the waterfall - it didn't have any lettering so I wasn't sure what it was for. It is not connected to any wiring ... is there an easy way to tell if the switch is still good? also based on the other comments I did find two old bulbs over the speedo & gas gauge - they are wired together, but not to anything else. The wiring diagram that JSeery sent indicates the switch is wired to the tail lights in the lighting cluster - is that in the steering wheel?

 

[JSeery]

No, it is at the base of the steering column in about the hardest place to get to there is. I would guess the wire from it is still hanging around under the dash somewhere. If you are not interested in being totally original just connect the lighting to the fuse on the fuse panel.

There may be a reason they disconnected it in the first place, so might want to check it out. If you can get to the back of the on/off switch on the dash with a meter or continuity tester check between the two connectors with the switch on and with it off and see if it works in both positions. Also might check both connectors to ground and make sure there is no connection that way.

If it checks out run a wire from the fused side of the fuse to the on/off switch. And then from the switch to the lights on gauges. See if it works and doesn't blow a fuse. Not sure what a 35 fuse panel looks like but should be similar to this one.

 

[deuce lover]

Thanks to all for the helpful comments; I went back and found the push/pull switch to the upper left of the waterfall - it didn't have any lettering so I wasn't sure what it was for. It is not connected to any wiring ... is there an easy way to tell if the switch is still good? also based on the other comments I did find two old bulbs over the speedo & gas gauge - they are wired together, but not to anything else. The wiring diagram that JSeery sent indicates the switch is wired to the tail lights in the lighting cluster - is that in the steering wheel?

To test the switch make up 2 wires with alligator clips.Clip them to the 2 poles at the end of the switch.Connect those 2 wires to a continuity tester,then exercise the switch.If you get a reading or buzz it works.If not pull the switch out by pinching tabs on the side to release it from the dash.When the switch is out in your hand you will see at the end where the poles are it has bent over tabs holding the back on.Carefully unfold the tabs and the switch will come apart.Clean the contacts and reassemble.test and reinstall.I have done this many a times with 32-37 dash light switches and fixed them all.Hope this helps.

 

[Don Rogers]

Here's a drawing of the dash light wiring behind the 35 dash. It might help in your trouble shooting.

 

[Scott754]

I really appreciate all of your suggestions & explanations. I will spend this morning trying these suggestions and will update on what I find or run into. Thank you

 

[MGG]

Does anyone know what the correct bulb is for this application? I can't seem to keep one burning for very long.

 

[Don Rogers]

A number 63 (3cp) is what was originally used. Some use a number 81 (6cp) for brighter illumination.

 

[Scott754]

I was able to locate the fuse block, and the wiring was (partially) consistent with the 35 dash wiring diagram above: wire from the fuse block to the temp/amp gauge; 2 wires to fuel/oil gauges. I have no wire to the cigar lighter (which I don't care about), and no wire to the dash light switch, but there is a blue wire that is the correct length to the dash light switch, but it is disconnected and wrapped in elec tape (so deliberately disconnected). I tried to remove the switch to clean it by squeezing the tabs as suggested, but the tabs do not move at all - I'm not sure if they are designed to squeeze as there is no space between the tabs and the switch, and I couldn't move the tabs when I tried to move them with a screwdriver. I've attached a few pictures of the switch, fuse block & wiring.
/Users/Jay/Pictures/Cars/1935 Ford /IMG_9240.jpg
/Users/Jay/Pictures/Cars/1935 Ford /IMG_9243.jpg
/Users/Jay/Pictures/Cars/1935 Ford /IMG_9244.jpg

 

[v8fordman]

Do what deuce lover said in post #8, but be careful when bending the four tabs on the switch as they become really fragile. One other thing to look for is the poles over time sometimes bend and touch each other. If this has happened to your switch, you can put an insulator between them and it should work properly.

 

[Scott754]

When I posted the previous Quick Reply I learned the pictures I posted didn't attach correctly, so I'm adding the reply with images, hopefully successfully.
>>I was able to locate the fuse block, and the wiring was (partially) consistent with the 35 dash wiring diagram above: wire from the fuse block to the temp/amp gauge; 2 wires to fuel/oil gauges. I have no wire to the cigar lighter (which I don't care about), and no wire to the dash light switch, but there is a blue wire that is the correct length to the dash light switch, but it is disconnected and wrapped in elec tape (so deliberately disconnected). I tried to remove the switch to clean it by squeezing the tabs as suggested, but the tabs do not move at all - I'm not sure if they are designed to squeeze as there is no space between the tabs and the switch, and I couldn't move the tabs when I tried to move them with a screwdriver. I've attached a few pictures of the switch, fuse block & wiring.

 

[TerryOH]

Your car has some creative wiring, such as: the original ignition resistor appears to be bypassed. The fuse for the lighting system is missing because the fuse block is damaged (broken) and half is missing.
IMO I would not remove the dash light switch unless necessary (to prevent damage). The wire terminals that go into the switch are somewhat special size and are smaller than most of the ford wire "bullet type" connectors.
It is possible the blue/Black wire you have found is for the dash light switch??? The dash light switch wire should come from head light switch at the end of the steering box. This wire becomes energized when the head light switch is in any of the three light "ON" positions: park, low beam, high beam. Check it out with a meter or test light.

 

[Scott754]

thanks - yes, trying to do what Deuce Lover suggested in post #8 but I am unable to
"pull the switch out by pinching tabs on the side to release it from the dash"... as shown in the pictures, the tabs are immovable with no gap to pinch them, so I don't know if they are a different type or just corroded to the switch

 

[Scott754]

Your car has some creative wiring, such as: the original ignition resistor appears to be bypassed. The fuse for the lighting system is missing because the fuse block is damaged (broken) and half is missing.
IMO I would not remove the dash light switch unless necessary (to prevent damage). The wire terminals that go into the switch are somewhat special size and are smaller than most of the ford wire "bullet type" connectors.
It is possible the blue/Black wire you have found is for the dash light switch??? The dash light switch wire should come from head light switch at the end of the steering box. This wire becomes energized when the head light switch is in any of the three light "ON" positions: park, low beam, high beam. Check it out with a meter or test light.

Terry, thanks for suggestions. I tested the blue/black wire with the head lights on, but didn't detect it being energized. At the switch at the end of the steering box I couldn't see a similar blue wire, but perhaps the blue wire was spliced with the original (black?) wire somewhere in between. I really was assuming the blue wire was for the dash light switch mainly because it is the exact length to reach the dash light switch.

 

[JSeery]

The wire from the switch at the base of the steering column is not black, it is black with a blue tracer. However these color codes can be difficult to read after they fade.

There is almost nothing wired correctly under the dash. You need to decide if you want to rewire it or just try to keep patching it up. As Terry pointed out, the fuse panel is totally inoperable. The ignition resistor is bypassed and the fuse holder is missing. It is currently only being used as a terminal strip.

If it was mine, I would correct the wiring. The easiest approach would be to purchase new wiring harness and a fuse panel, however they are not cheap. You could also just replace the wiring that is missing or not wired correctly.

What are your plans for the car, back to stock or just functional? It would make a difference in your approach to correcting the wiring and switches.

Would also be concerned about the ballast resistor being bypassed. What type of coil is currently on the engine?

 

[Don Rogers]

Here is a detail of the wires going in and out of the terminal/fuse block. This might help.