35 horn wiring

[carolina-bob]

Do the horns on a 35 have to be isolated from the frame so they will only ground through the horn switch. I have couple repop horns that work fine as long as they are not connected to the car. When they are bolted to the fender braces the wiring gets real hot real quick. Unbolt them and hold them in your hand and they work fine. Am I doing something wrong? The horn terminals are grounded to the horn body when I check them with my meter but I don't know if that's the way its supposed to be - I don't think so.
Do I have junk horns or what? Looking at the wiring diagram it looks like the horn circuit is isolated from the frame within the horn. Thanks for any help.
Carolina-Bob

 

[rotorwrench]

You have a short somewhere and it sound like it's in the horn or horns. The hot wire for the horns should come direct from the battery and the ground path goes direct to the horn switch. That means that both sides of the horn ******** coil should be isolated from the horn frame. If you get continuity to the horn frame from either terminal then something is shorted internally. Broken or crumbling isulators or wires shorting would be my guess.

Kerby

 

[Steel 35]

One lead from each horn indeed does go to ground weather your + or - don't know about your repops but some if not most suggest adding a relay to use them and if your indeed using two, with out a relay that would be the first problem (Overload) Try using a couple jumper wires Directly to the battery there easier then replacing the loom and a lot cheaper; Should help your trouble shooting.