35 headlight ground

Sure looks like it on the wiring diagram.
 

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Alan, all electrical components are grounded directly to the mounting surfaces, which are then directly or indirectly bolted to the frame, thence to the body, and from the firewall grounding strap to the battery. This circuitous route was good enough when these cars were new, however, the ensuing years and oxidation of connection points makes it imperative to make direct grounding connections from frame to end use. Light sockets should today have the addition of a ground wire running to the frame, and all ground straps to the engine from firewall, and firewall to battery should be confirmed or replaced.
 
ford38v8 said:
Alan, all electrical components are grounded directly to the mounting surfaces, which are then directly or indirectly bolted to the frame, thence to the body, and from the firewall grounding strap to the battery. This circuitous route was good enough when these cars were new, however, the ensuing years and oxidation of connection points makes it imperative to make direct grounding connections from frame to end use. Light sockets should today have the addition of a ground wire running to the frame, and all ground straps to the engine from firewall, and firewall to battery should be confirmed or replaced.
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That's some good advice right there! Ground can never be to good and you can never have to many.
 
I'm building a show car. I don't want any extra wires. I was just wondering what the original route the grounding took so that I can attempt to duplicate it. The schematic tells me that the headlights were grounded but not the route that the ground took if you know what I mean
 
If you are not going to add ground wires (they can be hidden) you need to be sure there is a clear ground path from all the components back to the frame and a good connection from the battery to the frame. Remember the engine is insolated from the frame so needs a ground strap. Also want to be sure all the ground paths and cables are the proper size for a 6 volt system.
 
They are grounded by the fender and on into body and frame. On a restored car the many junctions of bolted together parts will be isolated by new, clean paint and gaskets, with paint likely thicker than stock...
There are some helps I've learned from oldtimers...as a for instance, hit the ball or socket where light mounts with a cold chisel so there is an edge that will bite in. Grease it so it doesn't rust, tighten hard...
 
Alan, The headlights on a 35 Ford are grounded thru the reflectors,then thru the reflector clips. then thru the headlight buckets, Then thru the mounting posts, Then thru the front headlight /fender brace to the chassis. From the chassis thru the engine to the rear universal joint cover to the plus side of the battery.
 
Alan,the 35,is no different than Model A,32,33,or 34 the headlights all ground thur the headlight bar,headlight stands,then the fender brackets,to the vehicle frame,all thur the bolts used to attach. There was never a seperate ground wire,and no need for one.I hope this helps.E.P.Williams
 
Don Rogers said:
Alan, The headlights on a 35 Ford are grounded thru the reflectors,then thru the reflector clips. then thru the headlight buckets, Then thru the mounting posts, Then thru the front headlight /fender brace to the chassis. From the chassis thru the engine to the rear universal joint cover to the plus side of the battery.
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Gosh - reading the above routing - I'm amazed that anything lights up or works on my restored Coupe!:eek:
 
This is somewhat off topic, but it is interesting how through time more and more dedicated ground paths have to added to vehicles. Modern cars run dedicated ground wires all over the place to specific ground points.
 
On a locomotive the chassis/frame is neutral, positive and negative wires are color and number coded. Double chance of shorts.
Bruce
 
Allen
If you are gonna stick to as original as possible, you have to make sure each contact point from the reflector all the way to the frame has a good clean bare contact point from part to part (as Don Rodgers posted above), I clean each contact point with a scotchbrite pad then (and most important) I put di-electric grease at each and every contact point to help keep the contact point functioning like it should and help keep corrosion at bay. You can pick the grease up at most all auto parts stores. As also stated make sure "ALL" your grounds are good and clean, and have di-electric grease on them and you should have goo bright lights.
 
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