35 gastank

[Phils35]

I would like to know the easiest and best way to remove fueltank from a 1935 5window coupe.

 

[ken ct]

Un hook the fuel tank sender,losen and disconnect the filler pipe,all bolts holding tank to frame rails [3 i think] lift pass side up and over to the rt side of car and left side of tank should clear the frame rail on the drivers side and just drop down and out. Sounds simple but some times it isnt. good luck. ken ct.

 

[Phils35]

Thanks, it don't look simple but hopefully it comes out easy. Also who has the best tanks?

 

[TJ]

You can try a company called "Tanks" or contact Bob Drake. Both have new gas tanks.

 

[jfcrash]

If your fuel tank and fuel sending unit are stock '35....you need to make sure a new tank's sending unit's holesize and hole pattern will accomodate your original '35 fuel gauge sending unit.

I beleive Drakes will not accept an original sending unit but offers one that fits their tank, but is not compatable with the '35 gauge....

 

[flatheadfan]

Phils35-

I have done this several times and have found that the part that will usually give you trouble is the removal of the fuel neck. About the best way to remove the neck is use a good penetrating oil like Kroil for a couple of days on the juncture of the neck to the tank and then use a spanner wrench (picture below) to remove the collar. Using channel locks and/or pipe wrench to remove the neck will only complicated the situation.

If you are not worried about a perfect restoration, give sought thought to swapping the '35 tank for a '36. The electric sender used on '36 tanks will save you a lot of grief in knowing just how much fuel you have.

Tom

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

The tank Bob Drake sells for a '35 is actually a'36 tank. He sells an adaptor ring that will let you use your'35 hydrostatic sending unit. If you went in this direction you would need to plug/block off the threaded gas line connection on the front wall of Drakes tank. If you went with the 36 sending unit you would also need to use a vented filler neck like the 36 uses.

 

[Phils35]

Thanks alot on all the info. This will be on my winter list of things to do.

 

[ken ct]

The tank Bob Drake sells for a '35 is actually a'36 tank. He sells an adaptor ring that will let you use your'35 hydrostatic sending unit. If you went in this direction you would need to plug/block off the threaded gas line connection on the front wall of Drakes tank. If you went with the 36 sending unit you would also need to use a vented filler neck like the 36 uses.

He will also need the lead sealing washer that goes in the coller neck.Drake also has these! ken ct.

 

[TonyM]

Here is my progress:

1) Had to cut that filler neck; the tube was rusted to the sleeve.
2) Tank was removed with no trouble.
3) Restoring the tank with POR 15
4) Tank was sand blasted to bare metal.
5) Primered the tank on a rack I had to build to hold the tank.
6) Painted the tank with Bill Hirsch Chassis Paint.


I will install the restored fuel tank on my 1937 Ford on Saturday.

 

[Phils35]

Looks good !!! Mine has a nice leak I tryed to seal it but that lasted the summer, now its time for a new one. Thanks again, Phil

 

[flatheadfan]

McCready-

The spanner wrench is: K.R. Wilson S-220

Tom

 

[flatheadfan]

McCready-

Don't know if it will work with a water pump. I have only used it with '35-'37 fuel necks.

Tom

 

[G.M.]

You will have to remove or loosen the filler neck, the 3 bolts through the frame. Take the rear exhaust clamp off the frame and tie the pipe over against the tire. Put a long block of wood against the passenger side of the tank to keep from denting the tank. Use a peice of wood or pry bar against the bottom of the frame rail and the wood against the tank to force the tank towards the drivers side. Get 2 LARGE screw divers up between the top edge of the tank on the passenger side and the top inner edge of the frame rail and pry slightly toward the drivers side. The tank will then clear the top rail and drop. To install lay a piece of 16 gauge steel about a foot long and 6" high in the bottom of the right frame rail and up against the top flange of the frame. This will allow the edge of the tank to slide up over the inner edge of the frame. I have never removed a tank that just dropped clear of the top of the frame. I also tie a rope around the rear cross member under the tank back to the rear cross member. This holds the tank up and can be lowered so you can reach over the tank and remove the sender wires. The fuel line nut is removed before the tank is removed when starting the removal. I have removed 50 tanks over the years by myself useing this method. On tanks with the lead washers I dip the washer in tank sealant to seal it. G.M

 

[G.M.]

www.mcmaster.com has spanner wrenchs from $15.00. Other tool companies have them also. G.M.

 

[TonyM]

This spider held up my install for two hours on Saturday. He was spotted during a last minute check prior to install. I could see him way back there with my mini mag light. He would not shake loose so I poured a small amount of gasoline (about a shot glass full) in the tank and sealed up the holes. I drank a beer while waiting. Drained out the gas and hoped for the best. I spotted the spider on the wall baffle close to the filler hole. He was dead and stuck to the tank. I tried to vaccume him out but he stayed fixed. I found a long twig and put some electrical tape on the end. I looked in and he had fallen to the floor of the tank. I poked my spider extracting tool into the tank and got him.

This tank is now in brand new condition and installed on my 1937 Ford.

Here is the Park Tools Spanner I used.

TM