'35 gas tank yuck

The only adapter I have found has 6 holes to mount to the '36 tank and 5 holes for fastening the '35 sending unit to the '36 tank. But the '35 sending unit has 6 holes. Besides drilling holes or making one myself, anyone know of an adapter ring?
 
Seth Swoboda said:
Tom, do you know if the sending unit hole on the new tank is compatible with the OEM sending unit? I've always wondered about this.
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Seth, I have seen some new tanks that had a dual pattern in them to use the original sender and the aftermarket one. Unfortunately I can recall who made them.
 
I purchased my stainless steel tank from Tanks. i don't recommend it as their stainless steel tanks have two holes in them. One for the sending unit, the other for an internal pump. Problem is, neither of these holes line up with the original '36 sending unit hole. Thus when the tank is installed and you need to adjust the float, you can't get to it through the access hole in the trunk.

Why would they design it like this???
Probably because they never installed one!!!
 
My vote is to save the tank. There are many services as well as many products designed for just this sort of thing. Just my two cents!
 
A couple of guys, a couple of beers a bucket of 38"- crushed rock and just enough water to make the rock slosh when shaken/rocked works very well. Been there done that many times before everybody and his brother was remaning tanks. Tim
 
There is a Performance Radiator in Denver. I have had good luck with the Tacoma radiator shop cleaning, etching and sealing gas tanks for me. It can be a good option if you do not want to do the work yourself. It is pretty nasty work.
 
The dilemma is, in the effort to save the tank, having already had the tank cleaned, using POR 15's etching process, then coating it. if all the rust is not removed, then the tank is coated, and not compeltely coated as you can't see inside the tank, will rust then get under the coating and loosen it. Then it wil plug the line!
 
Steve in Denver said:
The dilemma is, in the effort to save the tank, having already had the tank cleaned, using POR 15's etching process, then coating it. if all the rust is not removed, then the tank is coated, and not compeltely coated as you can't see inside the tank, will rust then get under the coating and loosen it. Then it wil plug the line!
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Yes.
 
Steve in Denver said:
The only adapter I have found has 6 holes to mount to the '36 tank and 5 holes for fastening the '35 sending unit to the '36 tank. But the '35 sending unit has 6 holes. Besides drilling holes or making one myself, anyone know of an adapter ring?
Click to expand...

I have found that you really don't need to use all the holes in the sending unit to securely attach it to the tank.
 
I just went through the whole process. Getting the old one out was a chore in that it actually have to pry it out of the chassis. There is a company called "Tanks" that will sell you the 12 gallon original for about $529. BUT they also make a 14 gallon tank that is the same width and 2" deeper. You will be shocked at how it easy slips back in. Buy it through "Hot Rod Hardware" 507 527-1020 I got Tank, sender, 6" connector to the new filler Tube for $356.20 . I had to cut the old filler tube because it was not possible to unscrew the connecter pipe with a spanner. BUT Yes you do have to make the hole in the trunk bigger to install the s.ender unit and fuel pickup
 
If you put the fuel pickup on before you install the tank and connect the fuel hose to it you won't have to cut the floor so much but you won't have access to it if there is a problem. I will patch my trunk floor with sheet metal. The rumble seat covers everything. The job is easy with a friend to help. I suggest you install a drain plug in mine had none.
 
I put the stainless steel "Tanks" in my '36. Its the one with the two holes that dont line up. Yes, I installed the sending unit before I installed the tank. My friend said the POR15 cleaning stuff got lots of yuck out. He put a quart of the sealer in and rolled it around. I doubt he was able to coat the baffels. I had recommended he put in several quarts, but he just went with one. If it rusts and lifts the sealer, then maybe he will listed to all of us.
 
Steve, Chances are that no matter what your friend does to clean out his OEM tank it will continue to deteriorate and cause problems.

Years ago, I carefully cut the top off my OEM 1940 tank to actually see the damage done by stale gas and rust over the years. I cleaned up everything inside but, couldn't clean inside all the baffles. Welded the top back on (terneplate is hard to weld) and fiber glassed the tank. It still continued to deteriorate inside causing fuel flow problems. Finally realized I needed a new tank to cure the problem.
 
My friend will just have to try it his way. If it deterioates and pluggs the line and leaves him on the side of the road, then maybe he will replace the tank.
 
Thanks everyone. I think this is the end of this thread. He will have to learn on his own that what we all suggested, from experience, is the solution.
 
I'll be one and continue this thread, but in a little different direction. I have had my '51 coupe since 1987. Every year since then, I have run 5 to 10 tanks of gas through it in normal use. It gets a full tank and a dose of SeaFoam every fall when I put it to bed for the winter. The next summer, it gets a half can of MMO every other fill up (the rest goes in the crankcase). I have had no problems over the last 37 years, and up to now wasn't expecting any. It looks to me like this is adequate; does anyone have any knowledge to the contrary.

I think this thread has made me paranoid.:eek:
 
Like PLANOJC said, 'Call TANKS". I did and they were very helpful. Ask them to set set you up with everything you will need. Free shipping and all on most. I bought the larger 14 gallon tank and it fell into place as opposed to the original tank in my 36. get their sending unit unit as it goes in their 6 hole Tank.
The only problem is that you will have to weld in a drain hole bong and the gas pickup tubes go in the top of the tank and you will have to make the access hole in the top of the tank larger to access the sending unit and pickup setup.
Note: You can beat this problem by installing the sender and pickup prior to installing the tank.
 
I cleaned my 40 tank using the electrolysis method. Worked very good at removing all the rust. Slow but effective. I then sealed it after it was clean.
 

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