'35 gas tank removal

AnthonyG

AnthonyG

Well-known member
Considering tank removal to have it cleaned / sealed. I have considered doing previously but after researching some threads and posts I got the impression most of the time it's a nightmare getting it out due to the filler neck area not cooperating. Help, how bad is it and I would appreciate tips / directions to remove successfully with no damage to tank or filler neck assembly parts?
 
You have to screw the collar loose that holds the filler neck in place. This can be a chore. Remove the bolts that hold the tank and the fuel lines and wiring. Slide the tank to one side are the other and one end will come down then out.
 
There is a lead washer in the tank that is used as the seal. I used a big pair of channel lock pliers to turn it.
 
Removing the filler neck on a '35-'36 falls into the category of "potential nightmare." In "some" cases things can go smoothly. To reduce the "nightmare effect" use some penetrant such as Kroil for a few days followed by a spanner wrench for removal (see picture). Don't attempt to use a pipe wrench or Channel Lock. They will only complicate things and ruin the neck.

Good luck

Tom
 

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AnthonyG said:
I've read things can get screwed up pretty bad when that collar fights you and wins.
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They can be difficult, especially if wrong tools and/or procedures are used. If it is not heavily rusted and done as FlatheadFan suggests, it should not be a major problem. Have not had any problems getting mine off on three different '35's.
 
flatheadfan said:
Removing the filler neck on a '35-'36 falls into the category of "potential nightmare." In "some" cases things can go smoothly. To reduce the "nightmare effect" use some penetrant such as Kroil for a few days followed by a spanner wrench for removal (see picture). Don't attempt to use a pipe wrench or Channel Lock. They will only complicate things and ruin the neck.

Good luck

Tom
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I sprayed the neck with pb blaster for a week, and used a spanner wrench. I thought it was going to be a very hard job. 1/2 hr the tank was on the floor. this was on my 36 pickup
 
What do you guys think about a white vinegar soak ( fill tank ) for a month then flush out and dry. Have read in threads and posts it works great, cleans residue and rust completely. Then they talk about diesel fuel or trans fluid to coat tank but I think the gas would dissolve that so why bother. Gas has a small amount of oil in it which isn't completely distilled out so as long as you keep filled most of the time it should be fine.
 
flatheadfan said:
Removing the filler neck on a '35-'36 falls into the category of "potential nightmare." In "some" cases things can go smoothly. To reduce the "nightmare effect" use some penetrant such as Kroil for a few days followed by a spanner wrench for removal (see picture). Don't attempt to use a pipe wrench or Channel Lock. They will only complicate things and ruin the neck.

Good luck

Tom
Click to expand...
Where can I get a spanner wrench and a new lead seal?
 
McMaster- Carr (???) has spanner wrenches. I think you need a 2" spanner. You might measure before ordering. Get a heavy duty one. Drake has lead seals. You may need two seals, one on top of the other
 
After a couple of days of penetrating oil, I removed the filler neck rubber grommet and used the 34-219 (which is a 2 1/2") pin spanner…

Turned out to be a painless experience. These spanners are quite often on e bay.
 
As a closer, Thx to you all for the great info. I got the tank out fine, used the spanner. Even the white worked great on the metal as a bore scope showed it to be nice and bright clean with rust gone. Then the problems began. after stopping the acid reaction with baking soda solution I rinsed with water while agitating / spinning for days checking the drainage which never seemed to become clear of the small rust particles ( stuck in baffles ). Never felt good about putting the sealer in in this condition so I bagged the whole mess and bought a new stock style steel tank with a larger capacity, a few extra gallons. I know some have had success cleaning and sealing the old tanks but I wish I'd
have done that from the start and saved myself the mess and time.
All good now, nice clean Sunoco Ultra getting to the engine.
Thx again for all the advise on removing the old tank
Tony
 
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