You should be able to click on my user name and search for threads started by me. I'm pretty sure a while back I started a thread about the trans, I probably didn't go through much details but there is probably a few more pics of the trans rebuild there. If I'm reading the numbers stamped in it correctly it's a 42 Ford. Nothing fancy.
35/6 pu Frankenstein thingy
- Thread starter grovesmr
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You should be able to click on my user name and search for threads started by me. I'm pretty sure a while back I started a thread about the trans, I probably didn't go through much details but there is probably a few more pics of the trans rebuild there. If I'm reading the numbers stamped in it correctly it's a 42 Ford. Nothing fancy.
Finished up the driver side inner skin, starting brushing on por15 on the insides, you can see how clean I got the insides, I rigged some straps to the rafters to hold the door upright and rotated it so gravity would help wicking the stuff between the skins so hopefully any rust I missed will be stopped.
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Originally I had prepped the cowl vent by sandblasting in the cabinet. Then painted the underside with por15 with not much care given to the pitting, I just welded up the pin holes. Once I had the lid installed I realized how much of the that lady shows under her skirt when you've opened her up. I was confident in my functional and lasting repairs to the lid but it was embarrassing to flash what she had under there. Por15 is some tough paint, even the blasting cabinet didn't put up much of a fight to the ****. I put it back in the cabinet cause I didn't expect sanding to bite into the pits that needed filled that the por15 had already sealed. Long story short, she's looking somewhat presentable under there now
albertaboy
Member
Nice build. Are you using the por 15 de-greaser and metal prep steps or just painting por 15 onto sandblasted metal? I'm Just trying to learn about por15.Thanks.
Both and neither.... Hang with me.
It depends on the part. If it will fit in my blasting cabinet and after blasting I can't see a spec of rust or grease.. which is rare with these old parts, I may just wipe off the dust with a towel, then blow off with the compressor. Then wipe off with alcohol if I don't have pre at the moment. I'm pretty anal about degreasing before it goes in the cabinet though. Blasting to bare metal, and clean metal should negate the need for the acid, if it's clean metal.
Some parts, a lot of parts, don't fit in the cabinet. I've used a pressure pot blaster on those outside. Like the bedsides. On those they got clean it then I still did the degreasing and acid steps then wash but wouldn't do that again because they flash rusted , I guess I'm getting at you don't need to do the extra prep after blasting.
Now the frame, I didn't blast. I welded some repairs, and used a sanding disc on a die grinder to getting all the gunk off along with lots of elbow grease and wire brushes. That I used the directions for. Prepping to a far more degree than they say is needed. I got the frame pretty close to shiny metal then degreaser, then acid, then the paint.
In all of these cases the result is a very robust coating. I have failed though. On new patch panels I just degreased and acid treated, ten painted, this just peals off. Iim my experience I wouldn't suggest using it on new metal without running over with 80 grit maximum just to give the paint a mechanical adheasion.
So to wrap up, it is a rediculously robust coating but only if you give it a good surface for adhesion. You may or may not need to use all the chemicals for prep
albertaboy
Member
Much appreciated. I'm interested in using this product. Thanks.
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I'll also add some advice, or at least some speculation.
The paint goes a long way, more than you'd think, but while I haven't yet, I'd suggest possibly getting their thinner as well. My parts end up looking better withe more thinner coats than less thicker. The paint takes a long time to dry so the less dusty you can keep your room the better. Here im between a steel factory and their slag pit and trucks driving up and down the road all hours spewing dust. When paint takes hours to dry that dust gets in your finish. Do what you can to minimize the dust
albertaboy
Member
I've read por likes humidity to cure or dry faster. Not sure how I would accomplish that in my set up. Wetting the floor in a booth would work but I don't have that here.
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albertaboy
Member
Do you still have these pictures? Both electrolysis and the lock fab. Thanks.
Working on lining up the under seat panel and the seat riser. A bit of a pain with the cab sitting in the frame right now. I think I've decided to get all the holes drilled, set bolts in temporarily. Eventually replacement with a bead of seam sealer and then rivits. That will have to wait until I'm closer to paint cause there is no way I can get a bucking bar in to set all the rivits while the cab is on the frame
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Kinda just fooling around today. Between coats of spar varnishing the floor board and minor body work I kinda mocked up the grille. I think I've confirmed the radiator is not correct. Seems too short by at least a couple inches. I didn't expect it to be usable anyway, but I was hoping it'd let me get stuff all lined up. So I guess I'm still looking for a radiator, in any condition to at least get measurements from and or parts for a recore.
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mrfliboy
Senior Member
Have you done one before? If not how was it? Its on my bucket list so to speak on mine.
Great job on the truck!
Nope, this is my first experience with a flathead. Or even anything remotely so ancient. I've only rebuilt h22a engines so far. Go ahead and laugh. But I do love those Honda four bangers. 200hp with four cylinders no boost in 1993 isn't terrible. Surely easier to work on when the valvetrain isn't buried in the block.
I'm sure it had been easier if I had "proper" tools for the valves as my tools don't work on a flathead. I made a crowbar and rubber mallet work. I think the 8ba was just being nice. I could turn the crank by hand but still a third hand would have made it all easier.
Gonna have to figure out how to pull the cam and throw the block on a stand then pull the bottom end.
mrfliboy
Senior Member
I saw the pile of tools , looks like you got a good handle on it so far. Thanks