Some sanding and grinding lots of love taps with a hammer and dolly to get what were seriously warped panels somewhat straight on the passenger bedside, a tad of filler, and primer. Also new underseat panel and transmission cover just laying in place
35/6 pu Frankenstein thingy
- Thread starter grovesmr
- Start date
Jeff/Illinois
Well-known member
Any recent updates on this project? Keep at it!
Sure, here ya go. Most of the rough body work finished on the original bedsides. They were patched, think I uploaded pics of that before, but they were bowed pretty bad in multiple axis. Think they ended up pretty good for a novice.
Today I've been trying to get the doors and door pillars lined up. With a few hours of solo finagling I'm almost happy with how they line up to the rear of the cab.
I'm now working on pulling the remote handle assemblies apart to replace springs, I'm not sure I have the correct latch springs. But this is where I'm at now. Finishing the door latch rebuild. Once those are done and installed I'll get to bodywork on the doors
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Jeff/Illinois
Well-known member
Looking good!! Thanks for the posted updates!! Good luck you are doing a good job here
FlatheadTed
Well-known member
Never saw this before .You are one clever dud, doing the door laches ect that's outer the box thinking .
A Christmas update for anyone wishing they were in the garage instead of stuck traveling.
Lots of panels getting a coat of paint. Por 15 here going on the underside of interior cab panels and the bed filler panels, and the stand offs for window channels that go back in the doors.
While the first coat is drying, I decided to go back to my door latches again. Cut out the rivit and welded and filed out the worn out slit. About to try to set a new rivit, hopefully all the slop will be gone
Lots of panels getting a coat of paint. Por 15 here going on the underside of interior cab panels and the bed filler panels, and the stand offs for window channels that go back in the doors.
While the first coat is drying, I decided to go back to my door latches again. Cut out the rivit and welded and filed out the worn out slit. About to try to set a new rivit, hopefully all the slop will be gone
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Getting ready to set a new rivit. I cut out a shim with some really thin sheet. Hopefully once the rivit is set, I'll be able to pull it out and the latch will have just enough slack left to operate. I'm just making this **** up, so wish me luck
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Seems my idea of a shim worked out. After driving the rivit and pulling the shim the mechanism is sliding again, just now without the excessive slop in multiple axis it had before the repairs.
Latch spring will be next. I don't at all like the repop 35-36 spring. Yesterday the set of 33-34 car latch springs showed up, without fitting, they appear they may work better. I'll update after I install those if I get better results.
Latch spring will be next. I don't at all like the repop 35-36 spring. Yesterday the set of 33-34 car latch springs showed up, without fitting, they appear they may work better. I'll update after I install those if I get better results.
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Lawson Cox
Well-known member
That slot looks to be asymmetrical for proper operation. Check it a few times to make sure it works before setting the rivet.
That's entirely possible. But I doubt it. There was obvious wear. How much the obvious wear elongated the rivit shaft and latch plate slit could be up for debate. This does bring up a concern that I may have not documented.
There is a guide for the rod that goes to the remote handle, it's stamped straight in the latch backing plate. And the latch itself should, as far as my limited mechanical knowledge permits me, should only have lateral movement.
The rod connecting the latch to the remote handle has bends, which should eliminate the need of excessive slop at the rivit. Again, this is my first time on these old cars, but I wouldn't do all this if I didn't spend some time inspecting to determine some mass of metal was worn out and missing.
If you like, I can grab more pictures during the next sides repair. I could go into overlaying my theory over a pic of the latch with mspaint.
Then again you may be correct. But my two sides weren't equally worn, driver side was more wobbly, which kinda confirms my theory as it'd be more used. But doesn't discount yours.
The issue of worn parts is on the floating latch, it is not part of the remote handle shaft. If anything needs slack it would be the remote handle shaft. You'd expect the actual latch to operate perpendicular to the door jam.
Bruce Koukalaka
Junior Member
I love this old truck, does the 8BA turn over? Or did you have to rebuild it first?
I never attempted a start. The truck had been sitting for at least a couple decades. The crank wasn't siezed, but I was sure after that long the carb wouldn't have begun to cooperate.
I pulled the intake manifold and heads for inspection, couple valves were seriously sticky, some focused cleaning freed them up well enough but all the funked up old oil convinced me to stop and just commit to a refresh so I'll have the piece of mind.
I might have been able to get it running but honestly I didn't even want to try, someday soon I'll finish disassembly for a rebuild.
Bruce Koukalaka
Junior Member
I have a '52 F3 with the flattie and was wondering if yours was stuck like mine is that was all.
Slow day, almost entirely a clean up, put away tool, and organize parts day. Passenger door came off to do some work on the inner skin. Both doors came with sloppy but functional welds to repair some cracks at the door pulls, I cut those and rewelded them straight a while back, but today I started some slight shrinking to get the bulge back down. I'll have to do some hammer work but it much better now.
I'll also need to do some very light hammer and filler work on dents in the bead that frames in the interior door panel.
I'll update again when I've got the innards painted and the inner skin in primer
I'll also need to do some very light hammer and filler work on dents in the bead that frames in the interior door panel.
I'll update again when I've got the innards painted and the inner skin in primer
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Scuffing up and cleaning prep can almost not tell I've remade the bottom inside corner, I've gotten a lot of the crown out from the crack I re repaired. I've hammered to the best of my ability to get dents and beads and flanges all straight, some spot filler work next.
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AnthonyG
Well-known member
grovesmr, just saw ur post, great job!! Uv done some amazing work and made amazing progress in less than a year. Kudos. U gotta helluva shop too, lot'sa great tools / toys. Truck looking great. Question, back on the first page of posts you talk about and show a side loader trans., what kind is it?
Keep on Truckin!
Keep on Truckin!