35-36 with T5

jrvariel48

jrvariel48

Well-known member
Has anyone with a T5 in their 35-36 had to pull the trans? I just wanted to see what's involved and if the motor has to come out. This would be for a clutch replacement.
Thank you,
Joe
 
Well, this will all depend on how the installer did the setup. You will have to get under the car and see whether the design is one where the ****** can be dropped from underneath. That would some kind of removable mount require ng "X" frame mods. It should fairly obvious vs a stick frame. My avatar is one where I have to pull the motor and trans as a unit to do any ****** work. I will never build one that way again!
 
TomT/Williamsburg said:
Well, this will all depend on how the installer did the setup. You will have to get under the car and see whether the design is one where the ****** can be dropped from underneath. That would some kind of removable mount require ng "X" frame mods. It should fairly obvious vs a stick frame. My avatar is one where I have to pull the motor and trans as a unit to do any ****** work. I will never build one that way again!
Click to expand...

Tom I did the install of the X member. It's made by Weedetr and it does have a bolt in bottom where the wishbones tie in. I think my main concern is do I have enough room to pull it backwards to clear the input shaft?
 
The rear mount for the engine/transmission is at the aft end of the transmission. Once the transmission mount is removed the rear of the engine/transmission should drop down enough to clear the top of the transmission. Remember to keep an eye on the fuel pump and stand and the firewall. You should only have to move the transmission back far enough to clear the clutch plate, after that you will have more room to more the transmission around.
 
JSeery said:
The rear mount for the engine/transmission is at the aft end of the transmission. Once the transmission mount is removed the rear of the engine/transmission should drop down enough to clear the top of the transmission. Remember to keep an eye on the fuel pump and stand and the firewall. You should only have to move the transmission back far enough to clear the clutch plate, after that you will have more room to more the transmission around.
Click to expand...

Sounds great. I think I'll remove the pump & stand as a precaution!
Thanks!
 
Any clutch experts out there??
I'll pulled the trans yesterday without a problem. I had to pull it to get to the pressure plate and clutch plate. I just put the motor in on Wednesday and when I went for a ride and the clutch was slipping. The set up came from Fort Wayne Clutch so I had to send the parts back to them to get checked. I double checked the throw out bearing distance from the pressure plate to make sure it wasn't an issue.
My question is, could there be incorrect spring pressure on the pressure plate?
Could the fingers on the pressure plate have been set wrong?
The set up is a 1946 59 motor with a 11" flywheel re-drilled for a 9" clutch set up. I have a Pete & Jakes's pedal set up with a hydraulic slave cylinder that operates the cross shaft with the fork & throw out bearing in the middle of the shaft.
Any ideas's??
Thank you,
Joe
 
As 1931 flamingo pointed out the slave cylinder is good place to look for a problem. If it is not retracting (pulling the fork away from the throwout bearing) then it might not allow the pressure plate full clamping pressure on the clutch.
 
Yes it was retracting fully. At one point, I adjusted the throw out bearing to be a 1/2" out before it contacted the pressure plate, still had the same problem
 
You may want to remove the shifter to gain room to move the ****** back. (Only 4 bolts). They are right on top so you should be able to get to them by loosening the shifter boot.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top