35-36 Glove Box Hinge

31 coupe

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Happy New Year barners.
I've got a very good 35-36 glove box door with the wire hinge in place but I don't have the sheetmetal part that wraps around it and bolts to the dash. Does anybody make a repro part, or have I got to find a good OEM one? Thanks Graham.
 
I have not seen a reproduction, it appears you will have to find a complete door with it or make a replacement. I would go with the home made since they appear so simple, and you already have a good door and the hinge rod.
 
I'd like to expand on this post a little....
I have a nice '36 glovebox door with the hinge and sheet metal strap that has been bead blasted clean. The problem is that the strap and hinge wire have rusted together inside and won't move. I'm afraid of forcing it and risking bending the hinge wire. The strap appears to be spot welded around the wire. Can this be freed up by soaking in a penetrating oil (affect painting later) or do I need to drill out the spot welds and open the strap up slightly. Anybody have some experience with this before I jump in and ruin something?
Thanks for your help, guys.
 
Maybe someone has a rusted/rotted out door that still has a good sheet metal hinge. Post a want ad on this site and on the EFV8 website. If nothing turns up make your own sheet metal hinge buy copying that part from an original piece. Should not be that difficult to make.
 
using a torch with heat tip, carefully heat hinge area almost red, being careful not to get too much heat on door, let cool some, then soak with penetrating oil and very slowly, try to move door/hinge. If you're lucky, the heat wiil break the rust bond allowing you to work it loose.
 
I usually use a good oil to get the hinge to move, clean and then soak the entire hinge and door in NAPA twin etch. using a set of pliers to flex the hinge until it is loose. Twin Etch is a phosphoric acid, rinse with water, dry and primer.
 
If the 35 - 36 hinge is anything like my 39 pickup hinge, I made my hinge from a piano hinge that I got at Lowes. I welded athe hinge to the door and bolted it to the underside of the dash.
 
I'd like to expand on this post a little....
I have a nice '36 glovebox door with the hinge and sheet metal strap that has been bead blasted clean. The problem is that the strap and hinge wire have rusted together inside and won't move. I'm afraid of forcing it and risking bending the hinge wire. The strap appears to be spot welded around the wire. Can this be freed up by soaking in a penetrating oil (affect painting later) or do I need to drill out the spot welds and open the strap up slightly. Anybody have some experience with this before I jump in and ruin something?
Thanks for your help, guys.

I have had problems when glass beading assemblies that hinge or rotate in another part when glass bead media and dust works its way into areas with close fit tolerances. This will sometimes cause binding of those moving parts. You could have some of that going on as well as rusting. In the past I have had to take rotating assemblies apart and clear out the debris to get them working again. Just a thought for something you may need to check out.
 
I agree with JM35 Sedan. Probably grit from bead blasting. Tap on it for a while and try to knock some of the grit out. Don't ask me how I know.
 
The 35 and 36 glove box doors are different, and I believe the difference is in the hinge. I once sold a door(36) to a guy who needed one for a 35; he returned it, said it would'nt work. Could some of you 35-6 guys chime in on this subject?
 
I guess I'd like to know too, I assumed the 35 and 36 dashes are the same. I found mine already taken out of the car at a wrecking yard in New Zealand. The glove box door was on the shelf there too but it's a different colour so not from the same car. Any advise gratefully appreciated.
 
I have had 35 & 36 dashes and as far as I know the GB doors interchange for closed cars.Not sure about cabriolet which is same as woody and never had the opportunity to compare those with coupes or sedans.
 
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The glass beading is not the problem. The hinge was stuck tight before the blasting happened.
Thanks for all the inputs, guys!


I have had problems when glass beading assemblies that hinge or rotate in another part when glass bead media and dust works its way into areas with close fit tolerances. This will sometimes cause binding of those moving parts. You could have some of that going on as well as rusting. In the past I have had to take rotating assemblies apart and clear out the debris to get them working again. Just a thought for something you may need to check out.
 
That would be a huge surprise to me if the '35-'36 glove box doors are different when you compare similar models within those years. I would like to get Don Rogers comments on this.
 
From the Early Ford V8 Club 1935-36 book:

"Some early 1935 glove-box doors had a latch to keep the door shut. Later in 1935 and all throughout 1936, the glove-box doors had C shaped springs that would keep the doors shut".
 
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