34coupe rear spring bowed

TerryS

TerryS

Member
Is this normal? Rear spring is bowed towards the rear of car about 1.75". The cross member it sits in looks undamaged, the rear of the of the banjo is unmarked. The springs are a little askew towards the ends. The string you see is tied to the rear of both shackles. My car sags to the drivers side, that's what got me looking for problems.
Any advice is appreciated

Thanks Terry
 

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TerryS said:
Is this normal? Rear spring is bowed towards the rear of car about 1.75". The cross member it sits in looks undamaged, the rear of the of the banjo is unmarked. The springs are a little askew towards the ends. The string you see is tied to the rear of both shackles. My car sags to the drivers side, that's what got me looking for problems.
Any advice is appreciated

Thanks Terry
Click to expand...
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Were it straight it would not clear the back of the rear axle housing in a severe jounce. The rear cross member is shaped to fit the curvature of the spring.
 
Thanks Pete, that makes me feel beter.
I am planning on taking apart both springs for clean and grease with new hardware, in hopes of restoring a level ride hight. Watched a couple youtube videos but no one talks about reinstalling the rear with a bow. That must make it very difficult to reshape when installing.
Thanks Terry
 
TerryS said:
Thanks Pete, that makes me feel beter.
I am planning on taking apart both springs for clean and grease with new hardware, in hopes of restoring a level ride hight. Watched a couple youtube videos but no one talks about reinstalling the rear with a bow. That must make it very difficult to reshape when installing.
Thanks Terry
Click to expand...

What you are planning will not in any way restore the proper height.
I'd just recently checked with Eaton for a new rear spring. About $700. That will restore the correct height but will also aid in restoring the handling characteristics.
 
To restore, take spring apart, find a blacksmith anvil, take the main leaf and start at one end laying it on the anvil step and whacking it with a 8lb hammer. When you get a good curve back in it, do the same with the next leaf till it fits the main leaf and so on. Works better with two people, one holding the spring.
 
How will a blacksmith ensure that he achieves exactly the same curvature from the center line? I believe that the answer is that he cannot.


Try Eaton Spring in Detroit either to re-set your existing spring or to furnish a new replacement.
 
I'm to old to be a blacksmith...I checked out Eaton. They have both about $1300 shipped. Checked out my spreader, snap-on A 90A24-1 can't get it to ratchet and it doesn't clear the banjo. It's straight no offset. The problem I'm trying to correct is car sags to the drivers side almost 1 inch.
 
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TerryS said:
Front sags the most. Also the hardest to get to.
Click to expand...
Find a way (a young man with a flashlight and mirror and/or a smartphone for its camera and bright light) to inspect the front leaf spring for cracks. A wire brush will help as well...


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If you are concerned about the height of the car, then the spring arch is what needs to be fixed, if its the bend in the center then it cannot be fixed on a anvil. The arching process I described is what spring shops do and I have done several springs that way.
 
TerryS said:
Front sags the most. Also the hardest to get to.
Click to expand...

Just replaced the front spring (purchased from Eaton) in a '34 coupe last week. Actually, a fairly easy task.
The rear spring requires a special spreader to clear the differential. With the specialized spreader, that spring is very easy to replace.

In regard to re-arcing... I have never been a fan. That's not much more than a band-aid approach. Steel develops a "memory" of sorts, and you may rest assured your attempt to
re-arc (especially cold) will bring fair results at best.
There is a lot more that goes into producing a spring than simply bending it.
My advice? As long as you the old springs are removed, spend the few bucks on new springs and install those to your car.
You know the adage: "Do it right, do it once".
 
Checked the front over this morning there are no cracks. I was thinking mybe the easiest job might be to put in a longer shackle on one side and a shorter on the passenger side. Seems that could be done in the car.
 
That, sir, would result in potentially unsafe handling. Pardon the expression, but half-*** repairs to the suspension or steering or brakes are a fool's errand.
 
terrys said:
checked the front over this morning there are no cracks. I was thinking mybe the easiest job might be to put in a longer shackle on one side and a shorter on the passenger side. Seems that could be done in the car.
Click to expand...

nooooooooo!!!!!!!!
Heck to replace the shackle bars, you have to loosen the spring. Another four nuts and the spring is out.

Replace the spring.
 
The front spring sits directly above the axle.
I believe the entire front end needs to be dropped and disassembled.
 
TerryS said:
The front spring sits directly above the axle.
I believe the entire front end needs to be dropped and disassembled.
Click to expand...

Terry,
As I'd stated in an earlier post, I'd done this EXACT project on the EXACT car as yours.
It doesn't get much easier...
Raise the car and support it at the frame rails.
Place a spring spreader within the existing spring.
Remove the shackle plates.
Remove the nuts from the U-bolts.
Remove the spring.
 
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