34 top insert replacement

chuck stevens

chuck stevens

Well-known member
Has anyone been involved in replacing the top on a 34 5 window? I have new oak bows all in place but the tack rail around the outside seems to be a lost subject when to talk to the parts guys. There must be a trim between the edge of the top and the metal. I appreciate any help, thanks Chuck S.
 
It consists of two parts. The first is a shallow U-shaped channel that is filled with a tack retention material (pressed waterproof paper originally). That channel was riveted in place and completely covered with top insert material once that is tacked or stapled in place.

The outer part fits over the inner channel and tacked-down top insert material and was originally tacked in place, but small flat head #2 or #3 screws are a better bet to avoid chipping the paint on it as it serves as the finishing molding. It is flat on the bottom and the top has slightly sloped sides with a channel in the middle for a small rubber strip that fits into it to cover up the tack/screw heads. Dennis Carpenter and no doubt others sell a reproduction of that rubber strip. Weatherstrip cement or something similar should be used to cover the tack/screw heads on both parts to ensure a watertight covering.

Sorry, I've no photos handy.
 
I have used tack strip material from Le Baron Bonney, as well as the top fabric, etc. Call 1/800-221-5408 and ask for a catalog.
 
How have others cleaned the old tar-like, tack retention, substance out of the original u-shaped top channel? My channel is in nice shape on my 34 3-W but it is almost cement-like. Tried a heat gun but the substance didn't soften. A torch would inevitably damage the metal. I have a section form another car which I tanked at our local rad shop. Zero positive effect. A dremmel would take more years than I probably have left. Media blast? Thx! Ron
 
The material should be hard rubber, the remains from the soft rubber seal that goes in the opening. Over the years no telling what previous repair people put in there. I would try the hot air again or a very low flame from a propane torch.
 
We carefully cleaned the remains of the old cardboard tac strip and then put some modern plastic tack strip in its place. The width of the plastic was a little shy, do we held it to the outside under the lip of the tin channel. We filled the remainder of the channel with black silicone. Probably unnecessary as it is covered; but it looked s little nicer until then. We used 4-40 screws to hold down the metal strip that goes on top of everything. Seemed more secure the tacks or screws.
 
And if you use screws with Robertson heads, you're far less likely to chip the adjacent paint.
 
Thoughtful answers everyone. Thanks. I'm leading towards grinding the old hardened tar down to about half of what presently remains in the channel, then simply adding a modern, somewhat pliable, potentially sandable, fill material. And Robertson screws, vs. rivets.
 
Plastic material is called . 'arguda' machine able hard white plastic. I need two new top bows! Newc
 
If I needed to replace the rubber fill material I would consider windscreen urethane in the tube, its dense and would take a tack,you could staple the cloth to it ,
 
FlatheadTed said:
If I needed to replace the rubber fill material I would consider windscreen urethane in the tube, its dense and would take a tack,you could staple the cloth to it ,
Click to expand...

Ted, have you done or seen that done that success? Was it done with the channel on or off the car?
 
I have experimented with urethanes for this application and found that tacks or staples did not hold well. I also tried small ring nails but could pull those out as well. I ended up going with oak. I'm sure other hardwoods would work as well. It's a rather tedious job, cutting and fitting, but worth the effort.
 
My '33 3w has its weather-beaten original. It's been with the car 87 years, straight off the ***'y line; wouldn't think of replacing it. Thank you.
 
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