34 Side Glass Install- HELP!

[Karl]

Having just spent the best part of 4 hours trying to install the left hand front passenger glass in my Fordor and succeeding only to chip my new glass my frustrations are at an all time high. While given enough time I think I could work this out I have a wedding to drive for in 2 weeks time and a bride that is counting on me !

The problems we ( the trained Ford mechanic who lives next door and me ) are having are

1. We can't seem to get the regular arms to line up with the slots in the rail.
We marked the old glass were the rail sat and have transfered the measurements to the new glass but I suspect we have got it wrong . Can some one PLEASE give me the measurements of where the rail should sit on the glass.

2. When we try and install just the rail on its own we struggle to get the the buttons on the regular arms to click into and stay on the rail and even if they do go in they don't seem to roll properly

I'm sure we are doing something really dumb.Can someone post some step by step idiot instructions for us

Thanks -Karl

 

[rich b]

I'm sure everybody goes about this in there own way; but I always set the regulator in the bottom of the door, drop the window in the door and rotate it into place in the glass channels, hook the regulator arms in the slots, slide the whole works up into place, and screw the regulator down. Sometimes it takes a couple tries to get the regulator cranked in the right position to make it go. If starting from scratch, I usually clamp the regulator in a vise, install the lower channel and make sure it cranks up and down smoothly and the vent slide-back works. Can't help on the channel location; but it could be double checked against the other door if it is functioning properly.

 

[Kpar]

Karl,
like you I spent hours on my 33 fordor L/H front glass. I ended up cutting out a sheet of ply using the glass as a template and spent another few hours installing it without fear of breaking the glass. Whe I was happy with the procedure I replaced th ply with the correct glass.
The worry is I've yet to do the driving side.
My mate also broke one on his 33a while back.
Keith

 

[JSeery]

Is this any help? It's for a 34 5-window coupe (the same basic door) from the HAMB. I'm assuming you have the screw removed that is in the track for installation? It is reinstalled after the window is in place. There is also a lot of discussion on the HAMB about this screw location being incorrect and needing to be moved on the reproduction rails. That was the reason for the original post.

 

[Dave Mc]

I put the Glass in and use masking Tape on the glass to hold it near the top of the opening then insert the rollers in the rail and lower the unit and install the fasteners

 

[FlatheadTed]

Karl here are some measurements I spent a Hr checking today .I removed the panel of my 4 door because we were doing a 3 window ,these windows work perfectly and could be of use to any one else doing a 34 3--5 window possible Tudor ,
As noted I fit the window fed front first down the window opening then rotate it level ,roll the arms up with the channel screw removed work the rollers in the 3;1/8 gap at the top ,For all this to work the glass must be a précis size (specially the height ) other wise it will not engage the rivet and roll the glass back ,the measurement from the back of the rivet to the front of the glass is critical you do get a miner adjustment by the slots in the door inner panel that hold the mechanism ,the arms in there vertical position must come up to touch each other if the glass is to high they wont do it .and you will not fit the rollers in the channel .with the 3 window we used a repoped channel and found the slotted screw was out, this is needed to slide the glass back if the glass is two high it will not engage. On the fist try we moved the screw but when we discovered the glass was cut wrong we found the screw was correct .We did have to cut some of the track off at the front 1'3/4 to clear the felt channel and retain the rived position ,The gap at the 3'1/8 and at the rear end for the 3 window needs to be cheeked and trimmed .The measurement at B&C are taken from the inside of the roller channel upper side Ted

 

[FlatheadTed]

Clearer ?

 

[JSeery]

Interesting, some fairly big differences in the measurements!

 

[FlatheadTed]

I did say the arms come up to touch each other ,not so just so they appear in the two holes near the slotted screw ,so they slide into the channel ,if the glass is to wide height wise it will not let the arms come up and engage I have the glass at the back 14'1/4 and down to the channel at B at 14'1/4 this reduces as the glass slopes forward ,on the front of the glass its cut straight up at right angle to 4"then starts to curve (you need a card board template here ).Also the setting tape is a S shape and seals under the door opening but wont do it if the glass is to low. The front channel to felt 1'3/4 could be cut to 2" to give plenty of clearance at the front . Ted

 

[JSeery]

Ted, were your measurements from an OEM channel or a reproduction channel?

 

[FlatheadTed]

mine are from a OEM meaning original car ,we did transfer these to a reproduction channel and they worked with trimming as out lined ,I just removed my glass on the 4 door to double check,on the 3'5/8 to the rivet and that's correct ,it to the shank of the rivet .On a reproduction channel the rivet is no 1 then the screw is no 2 then the edge of the front glass is 3 ,then the gap is 4 and the rear to glass is 5 in terms of critical measurements .I think you could rely on these, you could duck tape your channel onto the glass and do a trial run and mark it were it works for you .I think we removed about a 1" of the reproduction channel at the front .Ted

 

[FlatheadTed]

I tried to edit the my first post ,no go ? full stops and stuff . not good at it ,no wonder they sent me out to mow the lawns at school .It always reminds me of Pink Floyds song, hey teacher leave throws kids alone .Ted

 

[Karl]

Is this any help? It's for a 34 5-window coupe (the same basic door) from the HAMB. I'm assuming you have the screw removed that is in the track for installation? It is reinstalled after the window is in place. There is also a lot of discussion on the HAMB about this screw location being incorrect and needing to be moved on the reproduction rails. That was the reason for the original post.

No screw in rail to remove. Absolutely no evidence that there ever was one there and whats more the rails looks original . Not sure what gives here -Karl

 

[Karl]

I tried to edit the my first post ,no go ? full stops and stuff . not good at it ,no wonder they sent me out to mow the lawns at school .It always reminds me of Pink Floyds song, hey teacher leave throws kids alone .Ted

Punctuation is largely a waste of time ask James Joyce !
Still incredibly helpful Thanks Karl

 

[JSeery]

No screw in rail to remove. Absolutely no evidence that there ever was one there and whats more the rails looks original . Not sure what gives here -Karl

I would guess it's not a 34 rail then. Could it be a 33? Are the doors 33 or 34? The smokers vent function will not work without the stud.

 

[JSeery]

Might post a photo of the door, the rail, etc. Could be a mixture of parts from the different years.

 

[jimTN]

Check the Jan Feb 1934 Service bulletins, page 145 for instructions and diagrams.

 

[JM 35 Sedan]

deleted

 

[JSeery]

This is not going to work if you are not using the correct parts for your model year door. The 33 and 34 regulators are very different and the 34 also requires the window channel to match the regulator. If your channel does not have the "peg" in it, it is not going to work if you are using a 34 regulator. The 34 door has the extra metal at the rear edge of the window frame. This covers the window glass as it moves forward and back for the smoker vent function.

 

[Karl]

I would guess it's not a 34 rail then. Could it be a 33? Are the doors 33 or 34? The smokers vent function will not work without the stud.

The doors and regulator are 34 and the smokers vent functioned perfectly. As you can see the stud is replaced with a bent tab on the rail that performs the same function as the stud.
As my car is very early 34 I wonder if my rail represents some kind of transition rail from 1933 to 1934 .

The only concerns I have is some rust out in the channel which does slightly effect the smoothness of the wind back . I have ordered a repop channel in case I decide to replace it -I understand they are not that great quality however -Karl