34 pitman arm- seeking supplier

Tom in TN

Tom in TN

Senior Member
This might be the wrong place to ask this but here goes.
Does anyone know of a supplier who sells a flat steel pitman arm for a stock steering box 34 ford?
I want to convert my half stock drag link to Heim’s on both ends. Totally getting away from the cup and spring factory arrangement.
So, the fat end needs to be able to be used on a stock 34 splined shaft and the small end should just be a through hole for a bolt.

Suggestions?
 
Bad idea. Why a heim end? Just get any passenger car pitman from 32-48 and it will fit on the sector. There are a variety of lengths and bends, and some have the small hole tapered from the different side. The 33-34 is the only one that has the integral ball.

Get an extra tie rod from 35-48, and shorten the right hand side so you will have an adjustable drag link with "modern" rod ends. The thread size is kinda unusual, but the right hand side is easier to find than the left hand.
 
alchemy said:
Bad idea. Why a heim end? Just get any passenger car pitman from 32-48 and it will fit on the sector. There are a variety of lengths and bends, and some have the small hole tapered from the different side. The 33-34 is the only one that has the integral ball.

Get an extra tie rod from 35-48, and shorten the right hand side so you will have an adjustable drag link with "modern" rod ends. The thread size is kinda unusual, but the right hand side is easier to find than the left hand.
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Man, that is some EXCELLENT advice from "alchemy", just above. And I would start looking for the necessary parts with your neighbor Michael Driskell at 3rd Gen Automotive, right there in your home state at McMinnville, Tennessee.

Coop

3rd Gen Automotive

Michael Driskell (Ask for Michael on phone)

Third Gen Automotive
Phone: 844-327-5988
Url: thirdgenauto.com
2600 Old Nashville Hwy
McMinnville, TN 37110
 
Ok, before y’all string me from the highest tree limb, here’s the deal. I am still fighting the ‘death wobble’ and the other night I got to thinking about a class of home-built race cars that used to run on our local dirt track (Riverside Speedway in West Memphis, AR). We called them B-cars and they used a solid axle, transverse buggy spring front suspension. Those things would fly around the track and I never recall seeing any of them suffer from death wobble.
So I am thinking about those front ends and how they set them up…the drag links were Heim’s on both ends- no slop or play- and I am trying to go there with mine and y’all say that is a bad thing.
I’m not sure why…
 
Tom in TN said:
Ok, before y’all string me from the highest tree limb, here’s the deal. I am still fighting the ‘death wobble’ and the other night I got to thinking about a class of home-built race cars that used to run on our local dirt track (Riverside Speedway in West Memphis, AR). We called them B-cars and they used a solid axle, transverse buggy spring front suspension. Those things would fly around the track and I never recall seeing any of them suffer from death wobble.
So I am thinking about those front ends and how they set them up…the drag links were Heim’s on both ends- no slop or play- and I am trying to go there with mine and y’all say that is a bad thing.
I’m not sure why…
Click to expand...


Tom.... Think about THIS! I cannot tell you which piece or adjustment is needing attention to fix your situation, but it's probably a pretty safe bet that these things were not DEATH-WOBBLIN' down the road when they left the factory. Something, or some combination of things is causing that shake. You just ain't found it yet!

Coop

.
 
V8COOPMAN said:
Tom.... Think about THIS! I cannot tell you which piece or adjustment is needing attention to fix your situation, but it's probably a pretty safe bet that these things were not DEATH-WOBBLIN' down the road when they left the factory. Something, or some combination of things is causing that shake. You just ain't found it yet!

Coop

.
Click to expand...

I agree with Coop. Why not start checking all of your stock tie rod and drag link ends for wear. Also look at the king pins for slop or wear. Pay attention to your wheels and tires. What condition are they in. If all is like new these cars track down the road really well. I've personally done 85 mph in a stock '40 Ford coupe and had no issues.
 
I have a 32 Cabriolet, with a dropped 32 axle, completely rebuilt front-end -- using all stock components and it has never experienced any sort of death wobble . . . and I've given it plenty of chances on some bumpy roads at times.
 
The answer to fix a wear problem is not to throw incompatible parts at the car. Find out what is causing the problem, then fix that part. You have double-checked all adjustments first of course.

Or if you insist on throwing parts at it willy-nilly, start with new cups and springs in the rod ends. Then fresh kingpins and bushings that are properly reamed. Then adjust toe in (you did try that first though, right?).

Still not fixed? Rebuilt shocks and links, fresh tires and straight wheels. New wheel bearings.
 
In over 60 years of "living" with early V-8s, I have never experienced the so-called 'death wobble". Why? Because I always made sure the front end components were/are in acceptable condition. Quick fixes (like the dampers) only mask the real problems.
 
There was a post lately about the taper on the replacement 'balls'; not correct? I do need that replacement ball for a '34 pitman arm. Newc
 
Tom in TN said:
This might be the wrong place to ask this but here goes.
Does anyone know of a supplier who sells a flat steel pitman arm for a stock steering box 34 ford?
I want to convert my half stock drag link to Heim’s on both ends. Totally getting away from the cup and spring factory arrangement.
So, the fat end needs to be able to be used on a stock 34 splined shaft and the small end should just be a through hole for a bolt.

Suggestions?
Click to expand...

Speedway Motors will make a custom length for you. They have standard tie rod ends and threading to US standards.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Plain-Tie-Rod-Drag-Link-Kit-with-11-16-Tie-Rod-Ends,3306.html

These tie rod or drag link kits are pre-cut and tapped lengths of 7⁄8" O.D. tubing available multiple lengths. Kits come complete with 11/16" traditional 7° tie rod ends and jam nuts. Tubing will be tapped with right-hand & left-hand threads for adjustability.

Select your length based on the center-to-center of the tie rod ends, which will also be the eye-to-eye distance between the steering arms (the actual tube will be 3" shorter than length selected). At selected length, the link will be adjustable from 1/2" shorter to 3/4" longer.

Note: Always use anti-seize to prevent galling the treads during final installation.

Charts

Measuring Tie Rod or Drag Links (GIF)

Tapered Steering Arm Illustration (GIF)

Guides & Documents

Steering Tie Rods Guide/Document (91632504)
 
Since the ball is not replaceable on the 34 pitman there is a Model A supplier that welds another ball on the original arm. Many think this is a bad idea but it works. DO make sure the tie rods are adjusted. I have looked in Ford service Bulletin back to 1928 but can not locate Fords adjustment. Several suggest to tighten as much as possible then loosed about 1 and 1/2 turn of the adjustment screw this should allow the cotter pin to enter the holes properly. I have heard that the aftermarket spring in the tie rod ends can be a problem with insufficient tension so good condition original springs can be used. Do check their height before using and don't use short or deformed springs.
 
I sure appreciate ALL of the suggestions. Sadly, I've not heard one that I have not already checked. That's why I am 'going radical' so to speak.
the front end is a dropped axle - would have to dig to remember who I bought it from, with split wishbones - my dad wanted hydraulic brakes,
Keep the suggestions coming, maybe something will set the alarm off.
 
Since you are not working with a stock suspension, we can't just make assumptions on all the unusual parts you have, and they might be the cause of your death wobble. How about some nice clear photos of the front suspension from the front, the side, the drag link, the shocks, the shackles, and even from way in front so we can see if the offset of your wheels is drastically different than Henry designed? There are many reasons/parts which can contribute to the problem, and we are just guessing if you keep those parts secret.
 
One of my 32's with a dropped axle, stock wishbone, etc recently developed a "death wobble" around 55 mph when you hit a change in pavement on the freeway, like a bridge. The front end had been recently rebuilt with new kingpins, shackles, tie rod ends, etc. I usually run 25 psi in bias ply tires, but when I checked, the fronts were at 22 psi. I put them up to 32 psi, and have not had an issue since. It's now good up to 70mph for long distances, which is about as fast as I'll drive an old Ford. I would have never guessed something as simple as a change in tire pressure would cause/cure my first case of "death wobble".
 
Maybe a second set of experienced eyes looking over your modified front end may notice something out of order that you are not seeing. Regards, Kevin.
 
What about removing the dropped axle, "split wishbone" and going back to stock since that has worked for 88 years? I'd say someone that didn't know what they were doing set up your front end. I've seen a lot of hack jobs on cars over the years.

My choice make is stock, worked then, works now and the car is still better than a '70 Chevelle.
 
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