34 Locking Hubcap

D

Daryl Middlebrook

Member
I have a 34 coupe with a "locked" locking hubcap that is locked to the mounted spare tire. I have no key. And there is no visible code number showing. I know that it takes a Hurd H6 key blank.

I suspect that 'Ol Henry did not use many key patterns for these locks. Is that true?

If that is true then what were the code numbers for the patterns that he used?

My thinking is that I could find a locksmith to cut a key for each code and that one of them would open the lock.

Thanks for your help.
 
Is Penn Yan NY home town to Sing Sing prison?

Anyway, You got good dreams going if you think you can get keys cut for all the codes and then try each until you find the one that opens the lock.

See below, One lock, known key code, six variants and STILL no Satisfaction.

The expedient, drill out the lock and install a replacement .
 

Attachments

  • P1020769.jpg
    P1020769.jpg
    27.2 KB · Views: 24
I'd contact a lock shop. They might be able to pick it, then cut a key. I found an old timer locksmith here who can do about anything.
 
There is a 33 34 35 ford locking hubcap w key on ebay, right now, price $45. or best offer, +S&H. eBay item number:292008513028

I got three of these things can't sell them at Hershey, nobody even looks at them.
 
Yep, we have a local locksmith here who can run a dentist pick over the tumblers, feel them, and go cut a key by hand .
 
253556


Can't help with your problem of removing the locking hubcap from your vehicle without out a key, but these are the correct Hurd Keys for these Ford locking hubcaps.
This is the backside of a NOS 1933 Ford V8 Locking Hubcap showing the original issue Hurd Keys..
 
I had one locked on a '35 tudor slant back sedan, and no key came with the car that would work in that lock to get it open. Somehow I was able to remove the complete spare tire and mounting bracket by physically working from inside the back of the car to unloosen and remove fasteners. I had someone working with me, outside the car, and keeping the spare assembly from falling off.
After the assembly had been completely removed, we were able to release those three spring loaded pins, as shown in mercmans picture, by using long blade screwdrivers, and working from the rear of the wheel to get the locked cap off the front hub of the wire wheel. Then we removed the lock cylinder from the cap and had it re-keyed by a competent locksmith. I have never found it necessary to drill out any of these old Ford lock cylinders to get things working again on my cars. Patience is your friend when working on these.
 
Last edited:
I have a few of them and never noticed any differences except the fake hub cap covers. I have a 32 one where all that is left is the cover. The rest was probably removed with great effort for a metal drive in WW2.
 
Thanks Andy,
I'll be looking for one as soon as I find a 5th 16" wire wheel. :)
Hoping to not have to go so far as I did for the first four!

Ralph
 
All 4 years, 1932, 1933, 1934 & 1935 Locking Hubcaps are different, then on top of that, there is an additional one for the 1932/1933 Four cylinder models, making 5 different Locking Hubcaps for these four years.
As the 1932 and 1933 Fords were available in both V8 and Four cylinder models, the regular Hubcaps as well as the Locking Hubcaps were offered with a V8 emblem or Ford Oval, depending on Engine choice. That is why Ford had to produce two different Hubcaps for these two years.
While the Four Cylinder model was again offered in 1934, the Locking Hubcap had a Ford Oval, so was able to be used on both the Four Cylinder and V8 models.
The 1935 Ford Locking Hubcap is similar to the 1934 Ford locking Hubcap, but the recess behind the Ford Oval is different to the 1934 Locking Hubcap.
When you see these Ford Locking Hubcaps advertised on eBay, the Sellers list them as applicable to all years. While all 1932 to 1935 regular and Locking Ford Hubcaps will fit, they all have their own unique style, and each year differs, except for the 1932 and 1933 Four Cylinder Hubcaps.
 
Without my code book in front of me I remember about 300 separate codes for 1932 alone.
The later tire locks 33-35 had about 1000 codes soooo making a key for each possible code would be very expensive and very time consuming.
You may find an old timer locksmith that can cut a key by impression but those guys are very few and far between. I usually remove the whole tire mount and tire from the car. I then drill a hole through the back of the mount to expose the back of the wheel and the locking hubcap. The center "rivet" is really a screw. Loosen the screw and the cap will fall off the wheel. Then you can remove the lock cylinder and find someone to make you a key. The hole in the tire mount is not a big deal as you can leave it because it doesn't show when it's back on the car. Call me if you have any questions 845 551 5132. I can make that key.....but not till April.
 
32phil, On the 35 locking hubcaps that I own, the head on the screw that's on back of the lock cylinder did not have any type of screwdriver slot when new from the factory. This screw probably had some type of break-off piece on the head like the column drop bolts have. So unless someone had perviously cut a screwdriver slot in this screw head, to make a repair or replace the lock cylinder, there is no way to remove that screw by drilling a hole in the back of the spare tire mounting bracket.

Additionally, not many of these locking hubcap lock cylinders have a key code that will allow you to cut a new key. If there is a code number it will be on the washer like part that's held on by the rear center screw. If there is no code, most likely it would need to be re-keyed by removing/replacing the pins.
 
Last edited:
I would think the easiest way would be to just pick the lock, then take it and get a locksmith to make the key. Yes this takes a little time, but I have done most automotive locks in a few minutes. The only one so far that has stumped me was a Subaru, a newer one.
Kinda a hobby of mine.
 
jagnweiner said:
Nope, Ossining NY, on the Hudson River, is home of Ossining Correctional Facility ("Sing Sing"). Penn Yan is in the Finger Lakes region of central NY.
Click to expand...

FWIW, the name "Penn Yan" is a contraction of Pennsylvania Yankee derived from the origins of the first settlers from PA and New England.
 
Tagging on to Phil's and JM35's comments, here is a photo of a replacement lock cylinder(Hurd type). If there is a key code, it can be in one of two possible locations as shown. The screw that holds the locking pins cap in place had a twist off top. This is usually twisted off in assembly leaving a smooth rounded hump.

On a more positive note....Sometimes the spare tire lock was keyed the same as the glove compartment lock or rumble lid lock. In that case that key should work in the spare tire lock.
 

Attachments

  • spare tire lock3.jpg
    spare tire lock3.jpg
    25.7 KB · Views: 37
Yes John, you are correct it is/was a break away screw. A slot must be cut in it to remove it. Much easier to do when the cap is off the wheel. I have done several thru a hole cut in the mount. Certainly not easy, I have done 3 or 4 like that.
On the missing codes, you're right again.
After doing about 50 of these tire locks, I believe less than 10% have a code on the outer disc. The only way to put them back in service is to disassemble them and once I figure out the code, by "reading" the pins, cut the key and then put it all back together. Takes me a little over an hour to do one like that. I have several available I have done previously, if you need one, or I'll exchange yours. BTW, I stopped by your space at Hershey to say hello, sorry I missed you.
 
Yes the lock cylinders are out there for sale .....prices....like most of the rest of the parts for our old cars are all over the map.
I have several for sale, PM me if you are interested.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top