34 Ford Primer Removal

jhswolf

Member
A long time ago in a place far far away, someone painted a coat of grey primer over the original black paint of my '34 Ford pickup.

I'm trying to remove the primer. It's unknown what type of primer it is. I'm trying to determine how much original paint there is so I can make a decision on what to do with it.

I tried a little mineral spirits and that did nothing. I then very gingerly tried a little Acetone and that worked extremely well in removing the primer and it didn't seem to affect the original black paint. I only did a small spot (you can see it on the RH cowl. Yeah, I'm supposed to try on an inconspicuous spot, but I took a chance).

Anyone have any ideas on how to safely remove the primer?

From searches on the Barn, I'm assuming the black is "lacquer on lacquer", but i don't know what that means. Was it an unknown primer and then two coats of lacquer?

Thanks,
John
 

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John, I'd go easy with the acetone. Maybe start with enamel reducer and work my way up with lacquer thinner as needed.
Wayno
 
Elmo,
Thank you for the response. Does anyone know what Lacquer on Lacquer means (other than the obvious)?

Thanks,
John
 
I used to shoot lacquer primer with lacquer over it in the 1970's and 1980s. If my memory is correct, you could shoot enamel over lacquer but not lacquer over enamel. The lacquer thinner would wrinkle the enamel. I've heard of guys shooting real light coats of lacquer primer over enamel so as not to get the enamel soaked with the lacquer. To get that primer off and leave the base paint would be just about impossible. You could try wiping small areas with light coats of lacquer thinner and see what it does or sanding the primer off, but you'll probably sand through it in spots.
 
A long time ago in a place far far away, someone painted a coat of grey primer over the original black paint of my '34 Ford pickup.

I'm trying to remove the primer. It's unknown what type of primer it is. I'm trying to determine how much original paint there is so I can make a decision on what to do with it.

I tried a little mineral spirits and that did nothing. I then very gingerly tried a little Acetone and that worked extremely well in removing the primer and it didn't seem to affect the original black paint. I only did a small spot (you can see it on the RH cowl. Yeah, I'm supposed to try on an inconspicuous spot, but I took a chance).

Anyone have any ideas on how to safely remove the primer?

From searches on the Barn, I'm assuming the black is "lacquer on lacquer", but i don't know what that means. Was it an unknown primer and then two coats of lacquer?

Thanks,
John
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Ive had some success using 600 grit sandpaper wet to cut thru most of the top coat, then polishing the rest off with rubbing compound. It takes time...
 
I had the same problem on a 40 coupe I bought even the window glass was sprayed with red oxide primer. I used a good quality lacquer thinner and rags to wash it off. It was a success. I used rubber gloves but the thinner would eat them up. Like to have never got my fingernails clean!
 
It looks like a lacquer-based primer over the original paint - which should have been enamel. Using acetone as you did will probably work, though do not let it sit and work itself into the original paint.

Given the amount of rust that I see peeking through, you're probably not going to find much original paint underneath (at least in a lot of areas). You'll most likely spend a lot of time removing the primer (the hard way), only to need to kill the rust and recoat it anyway.

It is super important for the underlying rust to be killed - before you put anything over it. You might also find body work with rust coming through body filler. If so, it needs to be removed, the metal cleaned and then the body work redone. Lacquer primer does a poor job of resisting water and preventing rust - which is why you see the amount of rust that is present.

I would use a good epoxy primer as your first "new" primer, but only after complete metal prep is done.

BTW: Looks like a cool truck . . . great project to build from!
 
Thanks for all the great comments. I'm just trying to determine how much original paint there is. Then I'll make a decision on what to do.

Bored&Stroked: Thank you for identifying it's enamel paint. I'll do a search to see what products there are that will not harm it. Your comments about rust are very true. I've worked a fair share of rusty parts and rusty bodies.

Thanks,
John
 
the acetone will eat thru the primer and wear thru the black paint just enough to leave hairline scratches and varying degrees of abrasion marks, be careful if you are trying to save the black. Neat truck, I have a '33 that someone painted tan/mocha/beige over pitted rust. I don't know why people think they know what they're doing half the time.
 
Thanks Al. I will be mindful of the hairline scratches and abrasions. The good news is the primer is very very thin and old so I don't think it's going to take much to remove it. I'm going to put the acetone on the back burner and start with some of the less caustic options first. I will post results.
John
 
Al, I tried alcohol and mineral spirits but they had no effect. I gingerly applied some acetone and it took off some primer very quickly. My paper towel was grey, but no black. However, I noticed a lot of small hairline cracks in the black paint, just like you mentioned. Do you think the acetone created the cracks or were they already in the 92 year old paint? Here's a couple of pictures of two different areas.
John
 

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Al, I tried alcohol and mineral spirits but they had no effect. I gingerly applied some acetone and it took off some primer very quickly. My paper towel was grey, but no black. However, I noticed a lot of small hairline cracks in the black paint, just like you mentioned. Do you think the acetone created the cracks or were they already in the 92 year old paint? Here's a couple of pictures of two different areas.
John
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John, yep looks like those cracks were there a long time, who knows how much that old truck suffered out in the sun or what past owners tried to do, maybe that was 1950 Sears do-it-yourself repaint kit. Perhaps the acetone will get the primer off and dull up the black but looks like it's already in rough shape, just go quick to get the primer off. Try micro-fiber towels you can get a 100 pack for $29.99 and use those, the paper towels will leave minute scratch lines too. good job and good luck post more pics of the truck.
 
Why not wet sand with wet and dry? The primer does not look too thick. The problem will be where the original paint isn't there or where there are poor repairs. Once down below the top coat of primer you will be able to assess the paint underneath.
How about using a polisher and polish through the top primer.
Of course, knowing when to stop is key.
 
Al: Yes, 26 years in the military, it was a wild ride and I'd do it again in a heartbeat. I ordered a pack of 50 microfiber towels and as soon as the heat lets up, I'll give it another try. I recently tried my hand at the front bed top rail. It came out pretty good, but it is a narrow piece and not very good to judge results by. (I must say, it's one of the straightest 92 year old rails I've seen. The panel underneath it has zero dents in it too). It's going to be tough getting the motivation to apply the acetone to the entire truck. Here's a few pictures of the bed rail.

Mart: Thanks for your suggestion about the wet sand. As you point out, the primer is pretty thin. However, I'm not sure how I could safely keep from burning through the black paint layer. The black paint looks awfully thin too.

BTW, before everyone starts flaming me (pun intended), that is a gas tank in the back. It's from a Chexx S-10 and is only temporary until I get the new tank swapped in. And no, I don't drive it on the road like this. :)
 

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