34 flathead runs need some expert opinions

When you did the compression test, did you have the throttle plates fully open? In listening to it, doesn't actually sound that bad. If you can get the valves unstuck, it might just come back to life with the MMO treatment. Keep us posted - you might get lucky yet!
 
Your compression numbers are suspect. I bought a Harbor Freight tester which consisted of a gauge connected to a flexible hose with a fitting which screws into the spark plug hole. I got ridiculously low numbers with this rig and it became apparent that with each compression stroke the hose was puffing up and creating a low reading. I should have known better. What a piece of Chinese crap! With the exception of number 6 your numbers are quite uniform. I would think with some run time things will improve. I would also check the accuracy of your tester.
 
Just for my own edification, I'd run another compression check on since its had a dose or three of MMO and run a few more times, will give you a good timeline idea of whats happening, where you are at and what you are "potentially" dealing with. JMO
 
As suggested above MMO in the oil and fuel. try to inject some MMO into the #6 valves from inside the cylinder and continue to run it. Initial compression helped locate the cylinder with problems after several cycles of running with MMO then recheck compression. You may have several valves that are not moving correctly. If after maybe 100 miles and compression still is bad it will be time to remove heads and intake for a look at the valves.
 
I've had luck with a brass-motor off of course- drift lightly tapping the valve edge thru the sparkplug hole to free up a stuck valve. Also-when doing your compression tests make sure your throttle/choke plates are open. I'd soak the cylinders for a couple of days. I've had luck with MMM, a 50/50 mix of trans fluid and acetone or straight diesel fuel. Loosened up rings on one old engine and added 10 lb to the compression readings after soaking a weekend. I usually do this routine before attempting to start a dry long term storage motor. Good luck
 
My two cents, It sounds like a intake valve is the culprit as you can hear it loudest under the hood. I would just pull the head and help it remember to go up and down. That will also get rid of that lifter noise as the lifter is just bouncing on the cam lobe(not good). Once it does move freely put it back together and drive it. You might also try some magical elixir in all eight cylinders while your doing this to loosen up the rings. My old 41 is still running on seven with low to no oil pressure and around 40 psi compression at best in those seven. Yes, I still drive it when the mood strikes me. Tim
 
Those are some bad compression numbers. No surprise. Depending on what you want to do or what you want to try. I'd keep doing the mmo down the carb and running. You probably won't ever see high compression. But I'm guessing you have stuck rings also giving you blowby foaling plugs. Maybe a burn valve on the exhaust. Not the end of world if the rings loosen up. With the heads off you will be able to look at the valves, etc. Not sure you experience or ability.

It might be a lost cause and it needs a rebuild. But mmo is 7$ and it might get up too 60-70 with driving. It's not something you do once and all is good.... rinse, repeat.

Depending on what you want out of it. You might enjoy it for a couple yrs before going through a rebuild. Which it could use.
 
Good update everyone!

Soaked #6 intake vale in MMO and on blaster since Friday afternoon. Started to tap on it today and sure enough it snapped in! Once that happened turned it over by hand and kept snapping it back in. Started her up and the intake valve snapped right back into work!! Sounds better! But she does still backfire when I give it some gas. The valve might just be burnt all in all. Plan to drive it this afternoon!!

Also very happy I was able to get it running for my great aunt, inherited this car from her late husband.

https://youtu.be/ftx3I61sofQ
 
Might be stupid but I have no clue where 1st and Reverse is in the gears. I have never seen the car driven. Basically I don’t know if reverse is straight up, down, or on the bottom right. I believe this is a 3 speed too right? Thank you for help on such a simple question!
 
Neutral is in the middle. Reverse is to the left and straight up. First is straight down from reverse. 2nd is to the right and and straight up to the top. 3rd is straight down from 2nd.
No 4th gear...
64-42157.jpg
 
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34 fordor owner said:
Might be stupid but I have no clue where 1st and Reverse is in the gears. I have never seen the car driven. Basically I don’t know if reverse is straight up, down, or on the bottom right. I believe this is a 3 speed too right? Thank you for help on such a simple question!
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Wait until you try the brakes, be CAREFUL
 
Went around the block couple times and it drives well for its age. To be fair i drove it well for my age. Being 17 and driving this thing is a process. Only stalled a couple times! Backfiring is still happening somewhere so will have to figure that out next!
Thank you all for the help!!
 
34 fordor owner said:
Went around the block couple times and it drives well for its age. To be fair i drove it well for my age. Being 17 and driving this thing is a process. Only stalled a couple times! Backfiring is still happening somewhere so will have to figure that out next!
Thank you all for the help!!
Click to expand...
Good for you, young man! Enjoy!
 
Hey Bud,

Your shift pattern is shaped like an H. Reverse is forward to the left and low is back and to the left, second forward to the right and high gear straight back.

Al Hook
 
That sticky valve may be around for a while, or , forever ! hows the compression? numbers get any better ? Have fun
 
Hey, it is awesome that at 17 years old, you're getting into an old Ford like this - way to go! My first car was a 1934 Ford four door sedan . . . with a 59AB flathead in it. I was 15 at the time and spent a TON of hours working on it, learning, asking a million questions to everybody who knew these old cars, etc..

Just make sure you really checkout ALL the suspension, brakes, etc.. You need to know that the car is safe to drive.

Best of luck, you're in good hands here on the Fordbarn.
B&S
 
Good to hear you've had success in getting it running. Now, to further use your compression tester do this; after getting the engine up to operating temperature, pull the plugs, and with throttle wide open, perform another compression test. The numbers should have come up some from your earlier readings. Check cyl #1, then using an oilcan squirt a bit of oil into the cylinder. This forms a bit of a seal around the top of the piston and should improve the initial reading. If it has no effect, it indicates it's a valve problem. Check each cylinder in turn, firstly as is, then with a bit of oil squirted in. Performing this test, this way, will immediately illustrate the condition of each cylinder, be it rings or valves. Report back with your recorded figures. Enjoy, you'll be learning heaps with this car.
 
Congrats on the first drive. Well done on getting that valve unstuck.
Just consider this place as like a bunch of friendly old Uncles that love to help when asked.

Mart.
 
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