34 Cabriolet; how was it in 1934?

MAC has the part # VM3334C #18 slotted flat pan screws...about 5/8 inch long. Also if rumble there are two tabs you need to to hold down seat spring...see pix
 

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Your call but if that car was built recently the " ARTIST " that did this should be identified . You are dealing with some serious saftey-liability issues here . How much of the designed structural integrity was compromised by the FIBERGLASS post . The lawyers here should have a field day with that one .
fiver said:
I thought I'd entertain you people showing how soda-blasting brings out the best in an old Ford. I spotted myself saying that the car wasn't as bad as expeced but I take it all back. This is a basket case of a car!

Approx. 0.5" layer of filler. Soda-blasting exposed very crude "repairs".
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I thought I'd need not replace the LH rear qtr. Wrong! I've already bought a RH repair panel but this one needs replacing too.
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Windscreen posts are beyond repair - unless you approve of fibreglass windscreen posts? I don't. Anyone know of someone having an extra pair of '34 Cabriolet posts?
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Looks like an Airstream surface to me..
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You'd have to be a raving lunatic to "repair" any car in this manner. It looks appalling and all I can now do is fix it properly. The only interesting bit that the soda-blasting brought out was that the car used to have a spare wheel on the RH side. It'd been taken off at some point and all that was left of it were welding marks on the lower cowl panel.
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The car was bought off a dealer so I've no idea who's to blame for this mess. It's also exported and no longer in the US so whoever did this got away with it.

I'm having someone make me new metal posts. This is no easy task by any means as I don't have a sample where to start from but the friend making these has a '34 Cabriolet too so he should be able to fabricate them although it'd be a tall order for anyone.

I bet structural integrity wasn't top priority for the person who did this?
CABRIOLET_121212 030.jpg
There are small metal patches all the way up and down the windscreen posts and once those'll be shaved off I very much doubt we'll find anything underneath them.

David J said:
Your call but if that car was built recently the " ARTIST " that did this should be identified . You are dealing with some serious saftey-liability issues here . How much of the designed structural integrity was compromised by the FIBERGLASS post . The lawyers here should have a field day with that one .
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What dealer ? A dealer can be held somewhat accountable I would think ? Good place for a chime in from one of the counsellors here !!! Anywayz I have the right half of a 33 cabriolet cowl loose with a bad bottom . I don't really want to sell it but if you paid shipping both ways I could loan it to you as a pattern . Shipping would not be bad as I could cut the post off and just send the important part . Lemme know .
fiver said:
The car was bought off a dealer so I've no idea who's to blame for this mess. It's also exported and no longer in the US so whoever did this got away with it.

I'm having someone make me new metal posts. This is no easy ask by any means as I don't have a sample where to start from but the friend making these has a '34 Cabriolet too so he should be able to fabricate them although it'd be a tall order for anyone.

I bet structural integrity wasn't top priority for the person who did this?
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There are small metal patches all the way up and down the windscreen posts and once those'll be shaved off I very much doubt we'll find anything underneath them.
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Thank you for the offer David J :) Due to shipping costs I'll wait to hear from my contact if he can fabricate the windscreen posts.

I'll PM you the name of the dealer once I'll find it. I bought the car almost two years ago, drove it for a while till the distributor blew, and it's been garaged ever since.
 
I hate to say it, but this is why I don't like to start with a "restored" car. You never know what you're going to find under that paint job....

My '33 Cabrio I picked up is rusted, but I know exactly what I am dealing with from the start.
 
The correct screws for the dam at the back of the floor pan #8 x 3/8 slotted binding head sheet metal screws.
 
Restored cars can be a safe bet if those who did the work have well-established reputations. Not everyone is trying to take advantage of fellow hobbyists.
 
Fiver ,how about giving an update on the cabriolet?
Also, if you still have questions about the top, Go to the completed listings on ebay
and look at the green 34. Just ignore the reserve price. Over $90K.
 
The gutters don't deal with all the water coming of the across the centre of the lid ,you get some dripping of the lid as there is no gutter across the rear ,it just drips onto the floor .So the rear of the lid when shut is rearward of the floor dam.
 
fiver said:
That was quick - thank you! :)

How high is the dam? There's not much room when the seat is in place but is it less than 1"?

I'm still wondering how the water was guided into the dam? There's at least a couple of inches on both sides of the trunk floor left open and wouldn't that let the water travel into the trunk area? If you'd imagine water gushing down the gutters some of it would end up in the dam but wouldn't the open sides let a lot of water just seep into the trunk? Or not?
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Many of the 1930-39 model cars that had rumble seats, originally had a large hose that was attached to the lower portion of the drip rail.. This hose extended down into the "well" in the lower portion of the area, the water then dripped out of holes in this well..
It did not take long for these hoses to fall away from the drip rail, most people did not replace them because they were "only cars"..
Large washing machine hoses make a very good replacement for the drain hoses..
Further investigation of the "dam" may reveal that it severed two purposes, one of which was to support the lower cushion of the seat..
 
BrianCT said:
Fiver ,how about giving an update on the cabriolet?
Also, if you still have questions about the top, Go to the completed listings on ebay and look at the green 34. Just ignore the reserve price. Over $90K.
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Things have progressed. The car spent 11 months at the bodyshop and I've continued where they left off. Yesterday I got the fenders ready for the painters and now I'm looking for the colour code for Washington Blue. I understand that there are 20 different shades to it. :confused:

Next question: what should be bolted onto the panel below the trunk lid? This is a new panel and has these spots where you're obviously expected to bolt something on but what? Something to route the water? If yes where is it supposed to be routed?

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My floor is modified but there's a dam keeping the water from draining towards the front of the car and there are two drain holes as well. This might not be period correct but it keeps the floor from flooding.
 
Thanks no need for them in that case :)

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I thought I'd share a view of the car with you all. It looks a lot better than what it did in 2012 don't you think?

If anyone's a good hint on where to find a paint code for the Washington Blue I'd appreciate it. Obviously it needs to be a "modern" paint code so that the painter can mix it with his computer controlled equipment.
 
washington blue is my favorite color . Not correct for 1934 . correct color is Dearborn blue. very dark. most new blues have a lot of red in them. in your quest for the blue you want look a formula and try for ones that have little or no red in them.
call me for more info
Nick 510-889-1933
 
The Cabriolet's slowly coming together and a new top was fitted last week.

I seem to have permanently misplaced the wing nuts that hold the top down on top of the windshield frame/A pillars. Would this be an item that is no longer available? At least I can't find it in (web)catalogues. Roadster/Phaeton wing nuts look remotely like the Cabriolet's so could I use those; do they fit?
 
David J said:
What dealer ? A dealer can be held somewhat accountable I would think ? Good place for a chime in from one of the counsellors here !!! Anywayz I have the right half of a 33 cabriolet cowl loose with a bad bottom . I don't really want to sell it but if you paid shipping both ways I could loan it to you as a pattern . Shipping would not be bad as I could cut the post off and just send the important part . Lemme know .
Click to expand...

DAVID J. ...........................
You haven't been on here for so long, I figured that you had been "banned".
Glad they have allowed you back !
MIKE :) (mikeburch)
 
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